After much hemming and hawing about getting a new engine for my 1983 F-100 with 300 I6, it looks like I am going to pick up one sometime this week.

It's out of an 85 F-150. I intend to swap all my brackets, pulleys, intake, exhaust, distributor, etc. over. Might get a new balancer for it, mine is old and crusty looking.

I want to go ahead and put a new cam in and freshen it up a bit. Nothing on the crank and rotating assembly unless it really needs it, as it had good oil pressure with previous owner. I see no reason to get into the short block for now, unless the cylinder walls look really bad when I pull the head. Probably going to get the head done, nothing crazy, just new valve seals, valves done, etc.

So on cams. I have read a little, @AbandonedBronco swap, etc. Just curious what cam you guys would suggest who have experience here. Leaning toward one of the Comp Cams kits, with timing gear, cam, and lifters. Looks like the options are 252, 260, and 268.

This is just a hunting/camping truck, (very) occasionally pulls a very small boat. C6/3.73 8.8. 235/75/15 tires. Engine will be stock for now, although I want to do the EFI exhaust manifolds and a Holley Sniper eventually. I don't want to kill gas mileage, though I doubt I can get worse than it is now (12-14). I wouldn't mind a mild bump in power.

Thanks in advance!

 

Update: I picked up the Comp 268 kit Monday from Summit. I got all the parts yesterday, which they got right except for the actual cam. They sent me a 260 cam instead. I'm glad I looked through all the parts before just taking them to the machine shop. BUT they did ship me a new cam yesterday, Next Day Air, on their dime, which I should have today.

The plan has changed a little. I am going to go freshened up shortblock with a .030 overbore if needed. New hyper pistons. Stockish compression.

Here's what I have so far:Comp Cams 268
Comp Lifters 832-12
Comp steel timing gear set 3224
Comp Valve Springs 903-12
Comp Valve Locks 601-12
Comp Valve Seals 502-12

I will also be picking up the Offenhauser C intake and the ProTuningLab SS LT header.

I also have a full AC system to install with the engine. Not having AC is one thing that's kept me from driving the truck as much. It's just too hot here in Arkansas to not have it in the summer.

Front end is going to get some work done too...fresh Moog tie rods and a Redhead steering gear box. Hopefully that helps eliminate the huge dead spot where it's really loose. I can put my hand at 12 o'clock, move it clockwise to 2 o'clock, then counter-clockwise to 10 o'clock, and the wheels never even turn. With that will come fresh rotors, pads, bearings, seals, etc etc....

These projects are money pits. It's a darn shame I like this truck!

 

Sounds like you're going to have a great setup! The 268 is a nice boost for a otherwise stock engine. With the headers and Offenhauser, you'll have a very fun daily driver.
Be sure to break in the cam properly with break-in oil and bringing the RPMs up to 2000 - 2500 for the first 20 - 25 minutes.
Also look into a magnetic drain plug.

Did you end up getting a new oil pump? I definitely would. I know guys who suggest replacing it any and every time you have the motor out. It's not expensive, and they do wear out. It'd be frustrating to be 5 - 10k down the road and realize your oil pressure is dropping and you have to yank the whole thing to swap it out, when it's cake to put a new one in now.

Are you sticking with the pressed in rocker arm studs? When I did mine, I had them pulled and drilled for screw in studs, which are much stronger. Only "downside" is that you have to adjust your valves yourself, instead of just torquing them down. But you only have to really do that once. Just a thought.

I love having A/C in mine. My only gripe is that the compressor gets in the way of the #1 spark plug, but you get used to it.

 

I use a couple old hard drive magnets on all my engines, right next to the drain plug. I remove it right before the oil change so that any metal junk runs out the drain plug hole along with the old oil. With this engine, I'll prolly stick one next to the oil drainback holes under the valve cover at least until the springs and stuff break in. I figure it will pick up any metal particles from the new valve springs off the oil as it drains back. I can't do it with my aluminum heads on the 351.

I will definitely be going new oil pump, 100%. I have not ordered it yet, it's in the wish list on Summit though, along with a Melling "heavy duty" intermediate shaft (probably not needed, but it's $7 ). I want to wait and see what the shop recommends. I've seen where some guys run high volume pump, some say no way, run a standard volume. I figure I will let the guys setting the clearances tell me which is best. Fwiw, I have the standard volume in the wish list; I don't see why I would need a high volume on a "new" engine.

To be honest, I considered it, but it looks like the roller rocker upgrade will cost $300 just for the rockers, plus whatever it costs in machine work. I'm not sure how "worth it" it will be for this motor. I don't consider valve adjustments to be much of a downside, my 351w in the Mustang has a solid flat tappet cam, so I'm used to adjusting them. Hydro lifters are even easier, especially on this motor, I would imagine.

What rockers did you go with? What'd they charge you for machine work (if you remember and don't mind sharing)? I have heard of people using "cheaper" Chevy ones...if that's possible, then my cousin may have some laying around.

Mine already has a compressor on there, so I've been dealing with that, I just haven't had the working AC to make it worth it!

 

The 1985 head should have pedestal mount rocker arms which will work fine with the .456" lift Comp 268 cam.

The Comp 903 springs fit the stock intake retainers.
Get rid of the exhaust retainers that have rotators and use the other set of intake retainers from your 1983 engine.

Nice looking header!
https://www.protuninglab.com/hds-fpu65-2wd-lt.html

 

I thought about that idea on mine, and may implement it too. I got a pretty heavy magnet drain plug, since I wanted it to have physical contact with the oil, but another heavy one on the outside that's removed right before draining is a good idea too.

Cool. I was reading your initial post and you said something about it making good pressure, so you were thinking of forgoing it. Maybe I misunderstood, or maybe you changed your mind since then. Either way, glad to hear it'll have a new pump. And I agree on the HD intermediate shaft. At $7, why not? Granted, the pin on the cam drive gear would probably shear long before, but I'd much rather that anyway.

As for standard vs. high volume, I'd go with standard. You don't need a high volume with what you have. I don't need a high volume with what I have. They can also have some negative effect, if I recall right, if used on a build that doesn't need it.

I believe it was $125 for the milling and threading. They have to lower pull the studs, and then grid and mill the bosses down. Then thread and tap them. Get some heavy duty (ARP) studs if you do. I went with some standard ones and actually had 2 of them snap. Fortunately, both broke mid-nut, so they still held down. I found them broken when I took the nut off. I went with some hardened ARP ones and have been happy since.

I went with Harland Sharp rockers. I like them because they fit under the stock valve cover, and they are one of the few actually made for the 300 in the stock 1.6:1 ratio. They come in both 7/16" and 3/8" stud.
Unfortunately for me, I originally started with stock rocker arms on mine, so I got 7/16" studs. Then, when I decided to switch to rollers, I already had the 7/16" studs, and went with 7/16" rockers. If I had planned it all from the beginning, I'd have gone with 3/8" all around. So, if you do, I'd suggest that.

However, if you're going to stick with stock rocker arms, you'll need 7/16" studs.

 

I completely forgot about the '85 head having pedestal.

In that case, Scorpion makes a roller rocker designed for pedestal mounts:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...1059/make/ford

However, keep in mind that they're 1.73 and not the 1.6:1 ratio. You'll want to take this into consideration when you select a cam as it'll amplify the lift.
IF you go that route, I'd suggest giving Comp a call and let them know and see what they suggest for your setup.


I also agree that that's a good looking header. Don't think I've heard of that brand.

 

I wasn't going to touch the bottom end. I still planned to do new oil pump, but I was going to squeeze some life out of the stock shortblock. But that idea has since changed. My bonus check from work was a little better than I expected, so I might as well do a full, good rebuild and not have to touch it again for a good while.

Fair enough. It can harm distributor gear on V8 engines, I know that. Not sure these turn high enough to bother it, but it does take powaaaa to turn a higher volume pump. Will definitely run a standard volume if it's ok with the machine shop.

Thanks for that info. I am still trying to be price-sensitive. The engine is out of an 85, they are pedestal mount.

Oooooh, more valve lift...that never hurt no one...I'll give them a call, but it may be easier to just talk to the guys at the machine shop. I think the only real issue would be PTV clearance, which isn't really a big deal in these engines, correct? Those would allow me to cut costs on machine work...but pretty expensive upgrade if you think I am fine with the pedestal mount and stock rockers.

I hadn't either. Looks like a heckuva deal though. The Hedman one in that price range is non-high-heat painted mild steel. I have heard bad stuff about it rusting out quick unless it's prepped and painted right. And the ceramic is far more expensive.

 

Thanks! I am a bit iffy on what you're saying here, but can I buy those retainers like what are in the 83 engine new? Reason being, I can't pull the truck's engine or take it apart until the new engine is finished at the machine shop. I need it mobile, which is why I bought the second engine to build.

 

Stock, it's a non-interference engine. So even with the piston all the way up and the valve all the way down, they don't hit. I don't know how much it takes to change that dynamic.
With more lift, it'll change the characteristics of the cam. Comp designed it a specific way with 1.6 ratios in mind, and going to a 1.73 might have negative returns. Dunno! Worth asking though.
However, what's more important to check is that the increased lift doesn't push the springs to coil bind. That'd be detrimental.
If it doesn't, you also want to be sure that it doesn't put too much pressure on the lobes when the valve's fully open, or the cam will prematurely wear out.
So, with 1.73 ratio, you might need different springs. A competent machine shop should be able to measure all that for you.

 

On the stock setup, the exhaust valve spring is about 1/4" shorter and there's a thick retainer on it that is designed to make the valve rotate. This keeps it from developing hot-spots.
He's saying to ditch those and use 12 equal length springs. If I recall from back when I put a 260 Comp cam in and bought their springs, all 12 were the same length.
If you use the retainers you have now, the exhaust springs will be compressed too much, so you need another set of 6 intake style retainers.

From what I'm seeing, you can just buy a set of Comp spring retainers. Might need to call them to be sure you get the right ones.

 

Somebody over on the fordsix website pointed out that the ss header is available online for less. And in the photo shown on both websites it appears to be the same product.

 

I checked that out. I may grab the Amazon one. It's obviously the exact same one. It's about time China started giving us some options...I don't mind being a guinea pig, I guess, for that price. And Amazon does a decent protection job. For the money I'd save on the Amazon one vs ProTuningLabs, I'll grab a 3 year plan, too, maybe that'll save the day.

Got it, I haven't been in these stock engines much, so I am a bit illiterate if it doesn't have studs and polylocks lol. That's why I stick around here!

Long story short, chatted with Comp earlier, they said they do not make a retainer that works for us. Must use stock retainers, they must not be the rotator style. So I guess I am about to put my internet skills to work and try to find some of the intake retainers.

If anyone has any laying around, I'll buy them offa ya!

 

The Comp 903 spring has an ID of 1.015"
The 300 six intake retainer has a 1.000" dimension that fits the ID of the 903 spring
The closest Comp retainer is the 768 which has a 1.030" dimension. I don't know if a .015" interference fit will allow the retainer to snap into the spring
I have checked most of the other suppliers and 1.030" seem to be the smallest "B" dimension.

The Ford 300 heads that have the pedestal mount rockers also use shorter valves. 4.750" versus 4.810" for the earlier heads.
The shorter valves run the retainers close to hitting the top of the valve guides near .500" valve lift. making the Scorpion 1.73 ratio rockers a problem with the Comp 268 cam.
The stock steel rocker arms will work fine with the Comp 268 cam.

 

I think I am going to stick with pedestal mount, stock rockers. I've been tossing it around in my head the past day, and there's so many other things I should really spend that money on. This truck doesn't need to be another hot rod for me, it just needs to work and last for a good long time.

To be honest, most of what you put as far as the technical specs on the springs is lost on me

I will hope I can find some of these retainers from someone out there used...if not, I could probably have the truck down in a few weeks. It would just set the build back a little.