I have a 2005 Excursion 6.0 PSD with 103,000 miles that locked up on my way back home from the BWCA this past Monday. It's currently sitting at Cloquet Ford and the diagnosis isn't good. Wondering what advice there is for next steps. I'm being told a re-manufactured engine is probably the most cost effective way to go. Thank you in advance for any insight. Bummed in MN!

 

I would recommend Not getting a Ford re-manufactured engine...mine lasted about 75,000 mi. before it failed. Lifter/cam failure. Sorry but I don't have any advice on who to buy from. I wish you the best. Your gonna get a lot of replies on this.

 

+2 on Ford remanufactured motor issues.

 

I used Asheville Engine and couldn't be happier

 

nothing but good things to say about Ashville engines

Side note took my truck into a ford dealer for warranty work they called the next day said truck was locked up would not start that my new batteries were bad. I had the truck towed to the house removed the belt and the truck started right up. they spent all day on the truck and couldn't figure out the a/c compressor was locked up. They had a quote to rebuild the motor when i talked to them on the phone. Take away is don't trust everything they tell you. it could be a blowen head gasket. did it let go while it was running or did not restart after you shut it down?

 

If you have the garage and ability, I recommend pulling it yourself if necessary after figuring what's wrong. You can do it right and be sure of it for thousands less than paying a shop. I had mine bored .020 over to clean up a cylinder wall, took the rest to .020 over to match, 8 new pistons with new bearings, had heads gone thru and fixed up as necessary by a machine shop, and did the assembly work myself. Added studs, delete, full exhaust, egt gauge, SCT, tunes, and was all done for $6K. $1800 of it was the bill at the machine shop.
If my engine weren't machinable, I probably would have gotten an Asheville short block.

 

+2 on a locked up a/c compressor. Had to get mind towed 2 blocks for a locked compressor. All I could hear "click". I was actually surprised that the compressor could completely lock the whole engine up.

Definitely check into that

 

Sorry to hear of your troubles. If the motor is ka-put maybe a 6 cylinder is available?

Destroked - THE Cummins Conversion Company : Home Page

 

The KnuckleHeads at the Ford Dealer will try talking you into Reman Ford --- do not go there

Backup options

#1 Source a used motor, do a mild upgrade/rebuild -- new oil cooler, LIFTERS, HGs, studs, etc
#2 If your engine is salvageable, undertake a rebuild as mattdoc has suggested -- the blocks on these 6.0Ls are quite stout, generally can live thru certain catastrophes..............

Min investment is $5K or so..............far cheaper than a new diesel (I just priced another one, gagged at the $65K figure)...........

 

And if you're feeling lucky or just don't want to put that much into the vehicle, just get a salvaged motor put in, option 3.

 

BEFORE you jump and spend all that money do a few diagnostic steps to find out what happened. There is always the chance that it was just a leaky injector or a failed EGR cooler that caused that
hydrolock. The first thing to do is to get it home and charge the batteries. Then remove the belt and see if it will crank over. If it does then the issue is in the belt path. Likely the A/C compressor. If not then
pull all the glow plugs and use the solenoid wire to crank the engine over. (DO NOT TURN KEY ON) during these tests. When cranking to clear a hydrolock you do not want to be standing where you
can be sprayed by what ever may be in the cylinders so put on some safety glasses and stand back and keep hands and other body parts clear of the glow plug holes. That stuff will come out at very high
pressure with enough force to blind you if hit in the eye or inject what ever under your skin. Once you have the cylinders cleared you then move on to doing a bubble test. You will want to keep the batteries
charged . First remove the secondary fuel filter and fill the bowl 3/4 full. Without putting anything in do a short crank with the solenoid wire and watch for bubbles. You should not see any with all the glow
plugs out. Now replace one plug at a time and crank each time. Remove the plug after you cranked and don't stop just because you have seen bubbles. Make note of the # and move on to the next.
This way you will do all eight and know what cylinders are pushing back air. If at any point when cranking you hear something rattling stop and find out what it is.

Report back what you find and we can go on from there. Lets hope that only one is blowing back air and hat an injector is at fault.

 

Spot on advice.

With 103k I find it hard to believe the engine failed catastrophically, but anything is possible.

You might not be as bad off as you think.....and definitely don't put your truck in the hands of people who are in the business of filling their own pockets with bull***** advice/recommendations.

Good luck

 

Lots of great advice. I sense someone is going to save thousands.

 

just in case
https://baltimore.craigslist.org/ptd...938011239.html

 

Except that is a Ford remanufactured motor - would not touch it.