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I have an 87 F150 with a non tilt column. I went to move it today and the key turned all the way forward with no start, but everything else powered up. I’m having trouble locating information on if the tilt column actuator is the same as non tilt. Can anyone clear this up for me? Thanks.
Well after a lot of searching I found that non tilt columns have an actuator rod (E7TZ-11A599-B). Mine is good so the issue seems to be with the ignition starter switch.
Well, if worst comes to worst, there are 2 nuts holding the actual electrical ignition switch down on top of the lower portion of steering column. I want to think I recall 10 mm, but unsure now. You can always remove those 2 nuts, lift the switch off the threaded bolts holding to column, and kinda push switch over to accelerator pedal side of column and work the actuator with a phillips head or something to ensure you're getting "full throw" (crank).
Also, for giggles, the ignition tumbler is pretty easy to remove and clean everything out, it sure gets a gummy carmelized funk in and around the tumbler. Kinda like ear wax, gumming things up and keeping things from turning smoothly.
Well after a lot of searching I found that non tilt columns have an actuator rod (E7TZ-11A599-B). Mine is good so the issue seems to be with the ignition starter switch.
Did you pull the steering wheel and see that the actuator wasn't broken? Some break down in the column and would be hard to see unless you did pull it out some. After I did my actuator rod, I had an issue similar to yours and it was a switch on top left side of the column ( wheel doesn't have to come off) and has a elongated area for adjustment. I forget what it is called but I adjusted it and all was fine. If you find the actuator rod is broken let me know and I can give you an option instead of a complete tear down which is NOT fun. Sandy
Thanks Odisvan- I got it off (11mm). The switch was bad. As of now I’m using the new switch with a screw driver. Thanks for the tip!
Sandymane - my rod is not broken. But it seems loose where it connects to the ignition cylinder area. When turned into start it won’t push forward enough to push the ignition starter switch all the way to fire the starter. I can grab the end of the rod and move it around without the key moving around. If you can guide me how to move the adjustment area it might clear it up!
Bill - thanks for the clarification! I was having a heck of a time finding a part number. My truck is non tilt with manual transmission.
Thanks Odisvan- I got it off (11mm). The switch was bad. As of now I’m using the new switch with a screw driver. Thanks for the tip!
Sandymane - my rod is not broken. But it seems loose where it connects to the ignition cylinder area. When turned into start it won’t push forward enough to push the ignition starter switch all the way to fire the starter. I can grab the end of the rod and move it around without the key moving around. If you can guide me how to move the adjustment area it might clear it up!
Bill - thanks for the clarification! I was having a heck of a time finding a part number. My truck is non tilt with manual transmission.
Thanks for your help guys!
Where the rod goes into the area you are calling the ignition starter switch, I don't believe you can see the end of the actuator. It has a hump on the end. I have read many break in there and folks have to drill them and put a screw in there to get them out. Mine broke on the right side. The other thing that can happen is there is a pin attached to the actuator rod. The pin is attached to the piece in the picture below and goes to the slotted area where the arrow is pointed to. The teeth on the piece go to a gear you see in the diagram number dummy post that the shift lever goes in. #3E717
.......... Your rod could be broken as described or the pin could be broke not allowing the piece in the picture to function or the gear in the shift lever hole could be bad (doubtful) but you can check it out. There is a Cir clip holding the gear in. Knock the roll pin out of the shift lever to remove it for inspection. You many have a totally different problem but those three things can cause an issue like yours. If it is any of these let me know and I can help you proceed. Sandy
Thanks for all the help, this place is awesome! Pretty embarrassing to admit but apparently I have tilt steering. I pulled the wheel and tore down the column, and there was a tilt column actuator! I never knew that the turn signal switch was used for tilt adjustment. I knew my switch could be pushed forward, but mine was so gummed up it didn’t do anything. Also I saw on here today that apparently XLTs came standard with tilt? My key lock hasn’t worked for the last 2 years, so I now know that’s a symptom.
I got a new actuator ordered and a turn signal switch since my left turn canceller is shot.
couple thoughts came to me. I recall trimming off part of my actuator stick, for some reason I cannot recall. Maybe to be able to install easier without too much disassembly but I cannot recall. Also, I had a heck of a time with that little metal comb toothed thing in Sandy's photo above. If you get your ignition tumbler out of sync with it, you have an issue. It won't plunge far enough or you can't remove keys from tumbler, I cannot recall now. sorry, getting older, just some things I recall that MIGHT help if you start to get into a bind.
couple thoughts came to me. I recall trimming off part of my actuator stick, for some reason I cannot recall. Maybe to be able to install easier without too much disassembly but I cannot recall. Also, I had a heck of a time with that little metal comb toothed thing in Sandy's photo above. If you get your ignition tumbler out of sync with it, you have an issue. It won't plunge far enough or you can't remove keys from tumbler, I cannot recall now. sorry, getting older, just some things I recall that MIGHT help if you start to get into a bind.
The reason you trimmed it is because you can remove the actuator without taking all the parts out. It is not easy if you have done one and it is not easy to get back together properly at least for me. If you trim the end of the actuator you remove the hump on the end and you can replace the actuator without taking everything apart. The down side as I understand, is you can remove the ignition key without turning the key all the way back or using the switch on some models. I am not sure why that is so important but some on here do not agree with this method. If or when mine breaks again, I assure you I will trim it to fit without taking everything apart. Unless, someone can tell me a reasonable downside to doing it. Sandy
Thanks for all the help, this place is awesome! Pretty embarrassing to admit but apparently I have tilt steering. I pulled the wheel and tore down the column, and there was a tilt column actuator!
I never knew that the turn signal handle was used for tilt adjustment. I knew my switch could be pushed forward, but mine was so gummed up it didn’t do anything.
Also I saw on here today that apparently XLTs came standard with tilt? Tilt wheel was an option for all F100/350's, Bronco's and Econolines.
Tilt was more common in XLT's, but that doesn't mean it was standard equipment...because it wasn't.
1978/91 F100/350, Bronco & Econoline: Tilt wheel activated by pressing the T/S handle forward.
Tilt was more common in XLT's, but that doesn't mean it was standard equipment...because it wasn't.
Thanks numberdummy, the diagrams were very helpful. BTW I have an XLT Lariat.
I got a new turn signal switch in and the new actuator in. I ended up trimming the actuator, that made things much easier. I’m glad I dropped the column. Dropping it made the ignition/actuator/ignition starter switch synching up much more convenient. Thanks again for all the help, there would’ve been a lot more cursing and confusion without it.