HEI distributor
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2019
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I have not checked if we still have spark yet, I’ll have to wait till Thursday.
is there any way to check the PCM? And will a PCM work from an 88 in my 93? If so I have one that I can swap out real quick to check it.
I have the grey ICM as well.
is there any way to check the PCM? And will a PCM work from an 88 in my 93? If so I have one that I can swap out real quick to check it.
I have the grey ICM as well.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 2,738
Likes: 217
From: Northern VA
As long as it is a V8 it will probably work. Make sure you clean connectors with contact cleaner while you're at it. We need to know if it sparks with SPOUT out! Hang in there.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 9,580
Likes: 1,162
From: San Jose, CA
I didn't see you mention one thing. With the SPOUT disconnected, did you actually check the timing at that point? I know you could not easily start the engine, but you should still be able to check timing with a light while it's cranking.
I'm just thinking that we don't know what the initial timing is set to at this point, and if it's way off it could be the source of your hard starting too.
There is another thread here just in the past couple of days that shows a good pic of the inside of your computer and what mildly burned, but not melted and oozing yet capacitors look like.
Paul
I'm just thinking that we don't know what the initial timing is set to at this point, and if it's way off it could be the source of your hard starting too.
There is another thread here just in the past couple of days that shows a good pic of the inside of your computer and what mildly burned, but not melted and oozing yet capacitors look like.
Paul
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2019
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The truck started right up after swapping distributors but then died a little after, just like it has been. I know it’s definitely not perfect and does need timed better, but I think it’s at least close because it started and ran decent.
I’ll try to find the thread on caps. Like I said I do have an available PCM from an 88 with the same motor, so I might just swap that out real quick to see if anything happens to change.
I’ll try to find the thread on caps. Like I said I do have an available PCM from an 88 with the same motor, so I might just swap that out real quick to see if anything happens to change.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,823
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From: New York
Open up the case on both PCM's to see how they look. Ford seemed to jump around a bit with the fasteners used, so you might need a T-10, T-15, or T-20 bit to remove the screws. The later (mid-90's) cases are 6mm (?) hex-head fasteners and typically come apart much easier.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2019
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So I opened up the spare PCM and it looked fine so I swapped it out. It backfired while it was cranking but never would start, which I know is a classic sign of ignition. However, we did have it running for a little while after the new ignition, so this confuses me.
We definitely have spark with and without the SPOUT. Pulled a plug wire and it had good strong spark.
After cranking for a while it smelled strongly of gas.
Once again any help would definitely be appreciated, because now I’m completely lost.
We definitely have spark with and without the SPOUT. Pulled a plug wire and it had good strong spark.
After cranking for a while it smelled strongly of gas.
Once again any help would definitely be appreciated, because now I’m completely lost.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 9,580
Likes: 1,162
From: San Jose, CA
I don't see where you have set the timing yet. You said you think it must be close, and maybe it is and I'm barking up the wrong tree. But seems to me you still have to KNOW what you are working with before you can move on.
If you've replaced a distributor, did you set the timing at that point with the PIP disconnected? The only way to get the timing accurate when changing distributors without a timing light, is to be totally lucky. No other way applies.
So are you feeling lucky? (Lucky "Punk", if you're into Clint Eastwood, or lucky "Bug" if you're into Mulan.
)
Paul
If you've replaced a distributor, did you set the timing at that point with the PIP disconnected? The only way to get the timing accurate when changing distributors without a timing light, is to be totally lucky. No other way applies.
So are you feeling lucky? (Lucky "Punk", if you're into Clint Eastwood, or lucky "Bug" if you're into Mulan.
)Paul
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 9,580
Likes: 1,162
From: San Jose, CA
And back to the distributor... Is there a way to test a distributor's trigger to make sure it's still good? Like the old Dura Spark setups where you could measure between the Purple and Orange wires and hope for between 400 and 800 ohms. Something easy like that?
I guess that's moot though, since you said you have a good healthy (and hopefully regular) spark.
Oh well, still thinking of what small thing is causing all this. Sensor? Mechanical? ECM?
You said the ECM's both looked good inside so you swapped. But I just realized this is not the thread where they thought it was a good computer but it had all the signs of a bad one. You just have to know what you're looking for.
Did you see that thread with pictures of the inside of the computer? Did you take pictures of yours for us to see?
You don't have the same symptoms, so it's a long shot. But the Ford computers are notorious for burning out old capacitors, so I'm just shaking that tree to see what falls out. Do you know what to look for?
Paul
I guess that's moot though, since you said you have a good healthy (and hopefully regular) spark.
Oh well, still thinking of what small thing is causing all this. Sensor? Mechanical? ECM?
You said the ECM's both looked good inside so you swapped. But I just realized this is not the thread where they thought it was a good computer but it had all the signs of a bad one. You just have to know what you're looking for.
Did you see that thread with pictures of the inside of the computer? Did you take pictures of yours for us to see?
You don't have the same symptoms, so it's a long shot. But the Ford computers are notorious for burning out old capacitors, so I'm just shaking that tree to see what falls out. Do you know what to look for?
Paul
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2019
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We definitely need to set the timing to make sure it’s perfect. I guess the reason I thought it was close was because we had it running right after changing distributors and with timing engines in the past I’ve always gotten them close enough to start and run and then fine tune the timing. But I could definitely be wrong, because I’ve never really dealt with this ignition system.
I have not seen pictures of bad caps specifically in the PCM but I figured that they would look the same as normal bad capacitors on other boards. Once again I could definitely be wrong 😂
I have not seen pictures of bad caps specifically in the PCM but I figured that they would look the same as normal bad capacitors on other boards. Once again I could definitely be wrong 😂
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 9,580
Likes: 1,162
From: San Jose, CA
Yeah, I remembered you'd replaced it, but I'm so focused on so many new parts being bad right out of the box that I worry all the time that a bad new part is skewing the results of tests because we ignore it for being new.
But that's why I was wondering about an easy way to test it instead. If there exists such a test, that would be the way to proceed.
In the other thread the member was expecting them to be half-melted with their guts spewed out all over the circuit board. Luckily he took a very clear picture and it was obvious to everyone that has experience this that a lot of heat had built up around them and had discolored the board and components. So they were definitely/maybe bad caps. Did not look as if anyone had ever replaced them, which can also cause burned looking boards if too much heat was used to solder. But these looked bad.
I hear you on the whole "it was running before" thing and the distributor. But at this point I'm willing to spend more of your time on double checking things!
Easy for me!
Paul
But that's why I was wondering about an easy way to test it instead. If there exists such a test, that would be the way to proceed.
In the other thread the member was expecting them to be half-melted with their guts spewed out all over the circuit board. Luckily he took a very clear picture and it was obvious to everyone that has experience this that a lot of heat had built up around them and had discolored the board and components. So they were definitely/maybe bad caps. Did not look as if anyone had ever replaced them, which can also cause burned looking boards if too much heat was used to solder. But these looked bad.
I hear you on the whole "it was running before" thing and the distributor. But at this point I'm willing to spend more of your time on double checking things!
Easy for me!
Paul
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2019
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If there was an easy test for PIP sensor I would definitely do it.
Ill try to check the timing next we work on it. I know this could be the problem.
is there an easy way to check for good fuel supply in these? Never really messed with EFI before 😂
Ill try to check the timing next we work on it. I know this could be the problem.
is there an easy way to check for good fuel supply in these? Never really messed with EFI before 😂
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 5,070
Likes: 863
From: N.W. Alabama
try this one scroll down the page test #4
Part 1 -How to Test the Ford Ignition Control Module (Distributor Mounted)
Part 1 -How to Test the Ford Ignition Control Module (Distributor Mounted)
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,666
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
Take an LED test light and probe the PIP wire while cranking. It should flash the LED test light.
The PIP wire is the top wire at the ICM.
This one seems to work well as it is the one I bought.
/
The PIP wire is the top wire at the ICM.
This one seems to work well as it is the one I bought.
/