When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
"The tell tale signs of [PIP] going south are: no spark/injector pulsing, car randomly dies then starts up a few mins later, randomly breaking up/sputtering/bogging down as you wind through the rpm...whatever you can imagine a car would do if it suddenly didn't have fuel/spark...or "know" when to add fuel and put in the spark....little bugger tells the computer when/where the #1 cylinder is..." \
With my experience getting junk manufactured distributor and the pain of getting gear off, I'd probably just splurge for a new dizzy if you can.
That describes all my problem except for it starting up a few minutes later. I usually won’t start for quiet a while if it even does.
Sounds like a new distributor is in the plans after the connector, I don’t really want to deal with trying to take the gear off right now.
So, I replaced the connector and distributor and it doesn’t seem to have helped any. Still need to time it more accurately, but it ran the same as before. I couldn’t find the SPOUT bar/fuse thing, where should that be located?
It ran decent for a few minutes and then as soon as I touched the throttle it missed really bad. It idled fairly high and then died. It smelled fairly strong of gas as well if that helps any. I’m still pretty stuck at the moment.
So, I replaced the connector and distributor and it doesn’t seem to have helped any. Still need to time it more accurately, but it ran the same as before. I couldn’t find the SPOUT bar/fuse thing, where should that be located?
It ran decent for a few minutes and then as soon as I touched the throttle it missed really bad. It idled fairly high and then died. It smelled fairly strong of gas as well if that helps any. I’m still pretty stuck at the moment.
SPOUT is a big deal. It is only inches away from ignition module. Find that and unplug and see how it runs. You cannot time it properly without removing it. Google a pic so you know what you are looking for.
So basically we need to unplug SPOUT and time at 10 degrees and see how it does? We’ll try to do that tomorrow. Our problem was also the fact that we couldn’t let it warm up because it dies.
Also, by removing the spout, you will learn something: is the computer, fuel system, or ignition causing this problem? If problem goes away, your ignition is likely good.
From 4wd Mechanic Moses Ludel: "an engineer's assessment of dielectricgrease that suggests Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease should work well on a variety of pin connector materials without creating any kind of resistance or barrier to current flow"
So we took the SPOUT out and tried to start. We finally got it to hit once but would not start. It would not start with the SPOUT in either. It seems like we have to let it sit for at least a couples days for it to restart though.
ill look into the ICM. I don’t remember which brand I bought, but it should have numbers on it somewhere.
Ok can you crank and check for spark with SPOUT out? If you have spark, we know your ignition is good and we can move on to PCM or something else. Also you have the right ICM? Gray or black?