HEI distributor
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,666
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
How do you know the Ignition coils are burned up?
If it starts again by just replacing the coil and this is what you are going by I would say all of your coils are good ones.
I think you have a bad connector plug at the Ignition Coil and by unplugging it and plugging it on to another coil it makes contact for a short time.
You need to replace the connector at the coil.
If it starts again by just replacing the coil and this is what you are going by I would say all of your coils are good ones.
I think you have a bad connector plug at the Ignition Coil and by unplugging it and plugging it on to another coil it makes contact for a short time.
You need to replace the connector at the coil.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
I might have to look into the PIP pretty soon I guess.
Also, I test the coils with a multimeter. The new ones test out with fine continuity, like they obviously should. The old ones test out with no continuity.
Also, I test the coils with a multimeter. The new ones test out with fine continuity, like they obviously should. The old ones test out with no continuity.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 2,738
Likes: 217
From: Northern VA
Dude I don't think your coils are all bad. The proper primary resistance is so low (.3 ohm) that it will test for continuity. I wouldn't be so sure they are bad. Perhaps your coil connector is going bad, each time you replace a coil it tightens up and eventually loosens.
I've had bad coil connectors on both of my 80s/90s trucks. They would run poor and ultimately cut out and die until I replaced connector.
I've had bad coil connectors on both of my 80s/90s trucks. They would run poor and ultimately cut out and die until I replaced connector.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,666
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
The PIP is an off and on switch.
If the PIP told the ICM to ground the Ignition Coil at all times the Coil could over heat.
But you say with it running the coil burns up and with a running engine. You would have the PIP sensor going on and off.
The only two times I have seen a coil burn up was one time with my grandfathers 1938 Chevrolet and another time with car at the Navy auto hobby shop in 1964.
Both times the points were closed grounding the Coil.
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If the PIP told the ICM to ground the Ignition Coil at all times the Coil could over heat.
But you say with it running the coil burns up and with a running engine. You would have the PIP sensor going on and off.
The only two times I have seen a coil burn up was one time with my grandfathers 1938 Chevrolet and another time with car at the Navy auto hobby shop in 1964.
Both times the points were closed grounding the Coil.
/
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
The primary circuit on the “bad” coils all show continuity. It’s the secondary circuit, from what I understand should have a very high resistance, that has no continuity. Unless I’m understanding that wrong. I’ll still try to unplug my current coil and plug it back in a few times to see if I can get it to start.
So the PIP either works or it doesn’t? In other words it if it was a faulty PIP the truck wouldn’t run at all? Or is that all completely wrong?
So the PIP either works or it doesn’t? In other words it if it was a faulty PIP the truck wouldn’t run at all? Or is that all completely wrong?
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 2,738
Likes: 217
From: Northern VA
The primary circuit on the “bad” coils all show continuity. It’s the secondary circuit, from what I understand should have a very high resistance, that has no continuity. Unless I’m understanding that wrong. I’ll still try to unplug my current coil and plug it back in a few times to see if I can get it to start.
So the PIP either works or it doesn’t? In other words it if it was a faulty PIP the truck wouldn’t run at all? Or is that all completely wrong?
So the PIP either works or it doesn’t? In other words it if it was a faulty PIP the truck wouldn’t run at all? Or is that all completely wrong?
Primary (the two small tabs) should be around .3 ohm Secondary (either tab to big coil post) should be around 8,500 to 11,500 ohm
Again I don't think your coils are bad. Measure ohms and not continuity
I think you have an intermittant fault elsewhere such as PIP inside distributor or plugs/ coil wires.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 2,738
Likes: 217
From: Northern VA
You might need to replace this. Under $10. Be sure to solder it, not crimp. Also use dielectric grease on contacts.
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Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
My bad jackietreehorn, I thought continuity just meant a continual unbroken circuit. Misunderstanding in word usage. Also probably correct in the connector being the problem, I unplugged and plugged the coil back in a couple times and the truck started but still did not run the right way. I turned truck off and then it wouldn’t even hit, I unplugged and plugged the coil back in a couple more times and it still wouldn’t start. So, I’m going to try the connector.
I pulled the codes and got a 21 and 67 from the first set and 11 from the second. Didn’t help me out a whole lot when I looked them up, but will probably help you guys out.
I haven’t had time to test the PIP yet.
I pulled the codes and got a 21 and 67 from the first set and 11 from the second. Didn’t help me out a whole lot when I looked them up, but will probably help you guys out.
I haven’t had time to test the PIP yet.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 1,829
Likes: 362
From: Candy Mountain
That connector can be disassembled, cleaned or swapped without cutting or splicing anything, like most of the connectors on these trucks. If you insist on cutting and splicing, twisting and soldering is tops if done properly. Problem is that often it isn't done properly. Ford recommends metal butt connectors (non insulated crimp connectors) and adhesive lined shrink tubing for most splice repairs nowadays, and I have used this technique with great success.
NEVER use dielectric grease on electrical contacts. It impedes current! You can use it on the perimeter of electrical connectors to lube and water proof but keep away from the contacts themselves.
NEVER use dielectric grease on electrical contacts. It impedes current! You can use it on the perimeter of electrical connectors to lube and water proof but keep away from the contacts themselves.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 2,738
Likes: 217
From: Northern VA
Code 21: Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Out Of Self Test Range -- This will definitely cause it to run rough
Code 67: Park Neutral Position Switch Circuit Open; A/C On (Manual) -- This can cause it to not crank at all -- Do you have a manual or auto?
Code 11: System Pass - Nothing here.
I'm still leaning toward bad connector or PIP.
You can get a new Motorcraft PIP for around $30 but unless you have a shop press you are going to have to get creative to remove the distributor gear. Often times with old high-mileage it makes more sense to just replace w/ new distributor since the internals are worn.
I would start by replacing connector and disconnecting radio capacitor and we'll go from there.
Obviously good battery and grounds are a must before any of this.
Code 67: Park Neutral Position Switch Circuit Open; A/C On (Manual) -- This can cause it to not crank at all -- Do you have a manual or auto?
Code 11: System Pass - Nothing here.
I'm still leaning toward bad connector or PIP.
You can get a new Motorcraft PIP for around $30 but unless you have a shop press you are going to have to get creative to remove the distributor gear. Often times with old high-mileage it makes more sense to just replace w/ new distributor since the internals are worn.
I would start by replacing connector and disconnecting radio capacitor and we'll go from there.
Obviously good battery and grounds are a must before any of this.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 2,738
Likes: 217
From: Northern VA
From 4wd Mechanic Moses Ludel: "an engineer's assessment of dielectricgrease that suggests Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease should work well on a variety of pin connector materials without creating any kind of resistance or barrier to current flow"
From: Dielectric Grease vs Conductive Grease
From: Dielectric Grease vs Conductive Grease
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
I ordered a connector should be here in a couple days.
The more I think about it the more I think it’s probably the distributor because of the bad stutter when revving. Definitely try to knock the other stuff out though.
Would the coolant sensor cause that stutter? And mine is an auto and it still cranks.
The more I think about it the more I think it’s probably the distributor because of the bad stutter when revving. Definitely try to knock the other stuff out though.
Would the coolant sensor cause that stutter? And mine is an auto and it still cranks.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,666
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
Code 21: Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Out Of Self Test Range -- This is normal for a cold engine.
Code 67: Park Neutral Position Switch Circuit Open; A/C On (Manual) -- This is because the clutch was not put to the floor while running the test.
Code 11: System Pass - Nothing here.
You could try blowing out the distributor with compressed air. Junk around the PIP sensor can cause problems.
Another way to get the gear off:
OR
go to this URL:
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...pickup.823694/
/
Code 67: Park Neutral Position Switch Circuit Open; A/C On (Manual) -- This is because the clutch was not put to the floor while running the test.
Code 11: System Pass - Nothing here.
You could try blowing out the distributor with compressed air. Junk around the PIP sensor can cause problems.
Another way to get the gear off:
OR
go to this URL:
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...pickup.823694/
/