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Yes. And that one looks like it has sustained some damage at sometime in it's life. I thought you had to run bias ply tube type tires with those rims. If they are in good shape they aren't as dangerous as some folks make them out to be. I changed a million flats on trucks with that type of rim when I was in the Air Force. Never died from it once.
I’ve never seen those, but truckdog will have a good idea, he’ll be along sooner or later. Almost looks like someone cut and welded together two different wheels.
Hmmm, these are rims that came on my truck, I thought they were split rims at first but there is no split. they are definitely two piece but I don't see how the rim piece could come off there, but apparently the require tube tires. The third shot is a real "widow maker" split rim that was on one wheel, that you can maybe see could be dangerous if you don't know what you are doing. (most people i know who have changed them say baloney you can tell when they are seated and they work fine).
So are these still considered split rims? I kinda liked the look but went with tubeless rims instead…
No generally the Firestone RH 5° are considered the 'widow makers'. The RH 5° are split around the center of the wheel like where the rivets are located on your wheels.
Your two piece "split rims" are considered safer than most. The lock ring is oblong along the mating surface which allows it to separate from the center. I think these are referred to as RHP/RIP style.
However in the OPs first two pictures there is damage to the wheel center at the 12 o'clock position and I personally would not attempt to remount a tire on that center.
If you want some guidelines as far as how to handle the mount and dismount of tires to your wheels and also want to know what is generally safe, Google "OSHA split rims" they have a pretty comprehensive list of wheel types and and mounting/dismounting/inspection criteria for each wheel type.
Last edited by 62SY4; Jul 21, 2019 at 02:10 PM.
Reason: Edit op style
Your lock rings should resemble this one. Note this is off my 67 but the earlier wheels are similar. I just don't have one broken down right now.
You must take care not to bend or kink these rings or they are junk. Also without a drop center, if there is any rust or dirt between the 'flap' and wheel be prepared for a long fight dismounting.
62SY4 is correct. None of the photos are not "widow makers". They are typical lock ring wheels used on 1000's and 1000's of commercial trucks big and small up to the mid 70's. Widow makers are 2 piece rims that connect at the center of the rim. Usually found on 1 1/2 ton and 2 ton trucks with 20" rims and 3/4 and 1 tons with 17" rims.
The first photo that several posters said is "damaged" at the 12 O'Clock location is in fact not damage, but is the location to insert the tire tool to pry it up and start it over the rim after the bead is pushed down. The lock ring has two narrowed sections 180 degrees apart that allow it to slide over the rim.
They are a "Two Piece" rim that predate the later two piece with a split lock ring. Not to be confused with a true "Split Rim" which is a whole different and seldom seen animal.
The WWII 6X6 GMC, IHC and Studebaker trucks used this style two piece rim usually considered a Budd Wheel design and made by several manufacturers with the 7:50 X 20 Military Non Directional tires used by the millions.
As I military truck collector I have changed a ton of them. My local tire guy says "if you are sweating, you are doing it wrong".
The first photo that several posters said is "damaged" at the 12 O'Clock location is in fact not damage, but is the location to insert the tire tool to pry it up and start it over the rim after the bead is pushed down.
I'm a young buck, but I'm not convinced that this is correct. I don't recall ever being able to see the inside edge of the lock ring with an undamaged and correctly seated ring on this wheel design. Maybe I'm seeing a shadow? Inside edge of lock ring
Originally Posted by Convoy Driver
As I military truck collector I have changed a ton of them. My local tire guy says "if you are sweating, you are doing it wrong".
That is the best way to state it. Removing and installing the ring is the easiest part of the process.
Not the best representation but here is a picture of an illustration RH 5 degree taken from a Studebaker parts book because it was handy.
Agree with the Convoy Driver’s first paragraph above.
Disagree with paragraph two. Goodyear pioneered the split side ring designs, and Firestone pioneered the continuous/unbroken ring designs. Both date to the late 1920s when Budd Michelin pioneered the disc wheel designs. The RH-5° was far from seldom seen. Almost every big Ford from 1948 until the mid 1970s came fitted with them (tubeless sizes excluded) which is why they are such a big problem today.
Regarding paragraph three, the Firestone RH-5° “widow maker” didn’t hit the market until 1948, so no WWII vehicle had them. During the war years Budd, Kelsey Hayes, and Motor Wheel all made these wheels using either Firestone or Goodyear outer rims. I recall seeing some references to Firestone Steel Products Company making complete wheels for a few applications, but have no such record for Goodyear until they acquired Motor Wheel Corporation decades later.
I changed my mind on the first pictured wheel. In the first post it’s two pictures of the same wheel. There are irregular bends in several areas. That wheel is hurt. Note too that it is a later “in-out coined” single nut mounting. Not a traditional Budd dual cap nut mounting. Stu
I changed my mind on the first pictured wheel. In the first post it’s two pictures of the same wheel. There are irregular bends in several areas. That wheel is hurt. Note too that it is a later “in-out coined” single nut mounting. Not a traditional Budd dual cap nut mounting. Stu
I have been studying the first picture. This wheel and lock ring have been worked over pretty good. If you study 8 o'clock area in the first picture you can see the "oval" cutout on the lock ring showing.
I think if the lug holes aren't damaged and the center to rim interface isn't blossomed around the rivets this center makes an excellent candidate to be fitted to a modern full drop center hoop.
Well I got that they aren’t widow makers. Are they safe or should I look to replace them? The wheels are on my 66 f350. Im trading the truck for a 65 N600 and I want to let the new owner know if he has trouble wheels.
