Fuel Filter Question
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Fuel Filter Question
Hello,
I recently bought a 1993 Ford F-250 7.3L Diesel truck. I have never owned a truck before, much less a diesel truck. I am also not a mechanic, but I've done small tasks before, such as changing oil, rotors, brake pads, calipers, and once helping change a head gasket.
The truck is not in very good condition so I need to start learning to fix things. My first step is to change the fuel filter. The bottom of the fuel filter has a valve. I can twist this valve clockwise to expose the threading. Twisting counter clockwise makes screws it into the filter. I assume this valve is used to drain something. Here is my question:
Which direction opens the valve and which direction closes the valve? It is unclear to me and I don't want to put water in it to find out, because I'm not sure if that could damage the filter. I am assuming I want the valve closed when installing.
Any other advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I recently bought a 1993 Ford F-250 7.3L Diesel truck. I have never owned a truck before, much less a diesel truck. I am also not a mechanic, but I've done small tasks before, such as changing oil, rotors, brake pads, calipers, and once helping change a head gasket.
The truck is not in very good condition so I need to start learning to fix things. My first step is to change the fuel filter. The bottom of the fuel filter has a valve. I can twist this valve clockwise to expose the threading. Twisting counter clockwise makes screws it into the filter. I assume this valve is used to drain something. Here is my question:
Which direction opens the valve and which direction closes the valve? It is unclear to me and I don't want to put water in it to find out, because I'm not sure if that could damage the filter. I am assuming I want the valve closed when installing.
Any other advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,519
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From: Nevada
You won`t damage the filter. The valve is there to drain off any accumulated water.
The last filter I would ever use is a Fram. They are junk. you are better with a Wix or Motor Craft.
here is a list off rock Auto. I would buy local as RA has shipping charges.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...el+filter,6200
I don`t have your year truck, so not sure which filter to use. Our local O`Reillys sells Wix and Motor Craft.
Charlie
The last filter I would ever use is a Fram. They are junk. you are better with a Wix or Motor Craft.
here is a list off rock Auto. I would buy local as RA has shipping charges.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...el+filter,6200
I don`t have your year truck, so not sure which filter to use. Our local O`Reillys sells Wix and Motor Craft.
Charlie
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2015
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I've read online about the frams having a bad rep and what not yet every one I disassembled showed no signs of failure. I know several people that run fram oil filters religiously yet still get 300+k out of there motors (gas motors)
Whatever the factory did, which just about every market is supposed to match is good enough for these old mechanical rigs. The better filters just clog sooner in my opinion, over a long period of time it probably does help. But short term I think the effects are nil.
Idi's mostly run a max injection pressure of 2,000psi and the holes in the injectors are HUGE compared to the modern stuff.
I run the wix/motorcraft just whatever the local place has on hand, but every now and then I end up with a cheapo such as a micro guard (made by wix) but I can't see why running the Fram for now would be a bad idea. If your want something more reputable just go with it next time.
I change filters once a year. Roughly 10-15k on them.
Most water separators I've seen out is to seal and in is to drain. If the drain is open it'll just leak diesel. And you'll figure out which way is which. The water is heavier than diesel so it just naturally sinks to the bottom and once the water is drained out diesel will follow it.
A new filter is better than no filter or a clogged one.
Whatever the factory did, which just about every market is supposed to match is good enough for these old mechanical rigs. The better filters just clog sooner in my opinion, over a long period of time it probably does help. But short term I think the effects are nil.
Idi's mostly run a max injection pressure of 2,000psi and the holes in the injectors are HUGE compared to the modern stuff.
I run the wix/motorcraft just whatever the local place has on hand, but every now and then I end up with a cheapo such as a micro guard (made by wix) but I can't see why running the Fram for now would be a bad idea. If your want something more reputable just go with it next time.
I change filters once a year. Roughly 10-15k on them.
Most water separators I've seen out is to seal and in is to drain. If the drain is open it'll just leak diesel. And you'll figure out which way is which. The water is heavier than diesel so it just naturally sinks to the bottom and once the water is drained out diesel will follow it.
A new filter is better than no filter or a clogged one.
Elder User
Joined: May 2018
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Which direction opens the valve and which direction closes the valve?
Scope Wizard
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,530
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Personally, I would go looking in the JunQue Yard for a 7.3 filter base
IF you buy the 6.9/7.3 housing that will cost ya like 70 bux and you will have to buy the heater to Plug the hole for another 70 bux .
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Elder User
Joined: May 2018
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The 6.9's had a different original factory filter system. They had a water separator remotely mounted and not part of the filter like a 7.3.
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From: Texas
Thanks Fellers! I'll be looking into Your suggestions. I'm about to dive real deep into this 86' so I'll be in the forums daily. I'll make sure to dig through the threads of the past to source as much info as needed so to not hijack threads and create unnecessary threads. Thanks! 
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