I need to change the fuel filter on my 00 powerstroke. I say I need to, it was purchased used and I do not know when it was changed so I feel like I need to. Just so I know. Ok. What needs to be done to change these jewels out, I have changed out Chebbies and pulled the filter and wiped out the bowl good, then on their I had to open the water in the fuel valve for it to prime. Just checking to see what the official ruling on this is. I do not have a book with my 250, so some advice would be appreciated. Thanks

 

Open the drain valve, pull the lid and filter, clean the bowl, install new filter, close the drain valve then cycle the key 3 times to reprime the bowl then start the engine.

 

Hey Powerstroker and others,

What do you think of openong the filter housing without draining it first? I'd like to see if there is any gunk in there.

Thanks for your thoughts.

 

Remove the plastic covering. Drain the fuel filter housing, yellow handle on back of reservoir turn towards passenger side front wheel. about 24-30 oz of fuel will drain out the drain tube. It will make a mess unless you put a piece of 5/16 hose on the drain end. Most people leave the extended drain line on, so the previous owner may have done this already. After the fuel filter cannister has drained take a filter wrench, big one like the oil filter size and take the filter plastic top (CCW) off. If the previous owner has replaced the OEM filter with one that has a filter and top built together the filter and top assembly will come right out. If not the OEM top will come off and the seperate filter will be right down under it. Just pull it out, throw it away, save the top. Clean out the inside of the bowl bottom if there is any rust or debris, clean the top off. Install the new filter, put the top on make sure the bevel side of the new upper o-ring that comes with it is pointed up. The bottom 0-ring, round, goes in a slot in the lower outer filter element. Put a little clean diesel fuel on them with your finger. The filter housing top, being plastic doesn't have to be very tight, just a little past hand tight. Close the drain valve, it is closed when the yellow arm points to the firewall. Optional, fill the filter housing before you put the top on with Power Service, Stanadyne or clean diesel. Not absoultly required, some peole do it, I don't just more messy and more to spill in the engine valley. Straight PS or Stanadyne fuel additive won't hurt anything. I wouldn't use the diesel that I drained out in step one. Clean diesel if that is your choice. Cycle the ignition, with out starting, the fuel pump will run for about 30 seconds per cycle that will fill the lines and reservoir up. Do that a couple of times and start it up, check for leaks. You might have a increased idle knock for a few miles due to air if you didn't fill the reservoir before capping it off. That goes away, or back to the normal diesel symphony of sounds. Takes me about 15 minutes to change my filter. Good luck, let us know how it works out.

 

Isn't there a second filter down on the frame?

 

I don't know of a second filter down on the frame, stock. However, if the previous owner did the tank mods he may have added a pre-pump filter. It should be easy to find if it is there. It would be between the fuel pump on the driverside frame rail and the tank. It could be one of those little in-line ones or something bigger and easy to spot like a Raycor or Dahl. I have one, but I installed it. If it does have one I would change that one out also. Just to be sure on a used truck.