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Violent Shaking When Stopped

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Old Jul 20, 2019 | 02:03 PM
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Violent Shaking When Stopped

I'm looking to buy a 1973 f250 camper special and when I took it for a test drive, the engine would shake violently whenever stopped in gear/Drive. I was thinking it could be a motor mount, what are your thoughts? It also seems to be leaking oil from the pan and don't know what it would take to fix that. All comments are greatly appreciated, and I thank you in advance. I only ever worked on motorcycles, so I'm not sure what I'm looking at. Thanks!
 
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Old Jul 20, 2019 | 02:07 PM
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What transmission? Might be its not disengaging.

If you are sure the oil is coming from the pan, it might just need a new gasket.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2019 | 02:10 PM
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That or an engine or trans mount is broken
 
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Old Jul 21, 2019 | 05:00 PM
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Im not sure, He said he thinks thee engine is a 360 however the person he bought it from claimed it was a 390. Its a 4 speed I believe.

If I do need new engine mounts or trans mounts, how much do you think it would cost to replace? Im not sure if I could do it my self because I dont have any kind of lift if you need one for the job.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2019 | 05:18 PM
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So it's a manual?
So... you are stopped, foot off the clutch and brake and it shakes?

If it's an automatic... you are stopped, foot on the brake and it shakes? Does it feel like it wants to pull forward? Does it act the same if you have it in reverse and stopped?


Have you crawled under and taken a look at the mounts?

You can rent a hoist at most auto parts stores if that is what is needed.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2019 | 05:31 PM
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Sorry, its an automatic. Start it in park, fine. Shift it into drive, and it shakes like crazy until I release the brake and start moving and it smoothed out to normal. does it in 1st 2nd Drive and Reverse apply brakes and it would shake again. I didn't check the mounts because I thought something major was wrong and didn't want to deal with it on first thought.

On another note, when shifting into gears, the lever didn't "fall" into place, it moved freely across the range of gears, don't know what that was about but it would hold itself in wherever I left it.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2019 | 06:42 PM
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without seeing it, i would guess it is an engine miss (possible caused by back brake booster) or other large vacuum leak...does the roughness happen in park when you just depress the brake pedal?
 
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Old Jul 21, 2019 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by dlburch
without seeing it, i would guess it is an engine miss (possible caused by back brake booster) or other large vacuum leak...does the roughness happen in park when you just depress the brake pedal?
They guy did say it ran rough and to feather the gas when going from a stop or stopped, "needs a tune up." But to answer your question, no, I pressed the brakes for a while before shifting and after shifting, it was rough.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2019 | 08:44 PM
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I'd start by checking all the vacuum lines for leaks. Next hook up a vacuum gauge and get a general idea of its health. Set the carburetor up using the vacuum gauge. Check all your plugs, note the condition of each. check all your wires. Check and set the timing.

Once all of that is set, if you still have the problem, check the condition of the transmission fluid. Are you sure it is oil leaking under your truck and not transmission fluid? Take the inspection plate off and check the condition of the flexplate as best you can (I found a small mirror and the camera on my phone very helpful during this). Wipe everything down and clean it up while you are down there. Next time you look you might have an easier job finding where your leak is coming from.

It could be a lot of things from a vacuum leak or bad tune to something warped or breaking. This is a good place to learn how to fix stuff and diagnose your truck. I have hardly any idea about any of it, but there are a lot of people here who do. Take a lot of pictures and post them here. A video of it doing this would be very helpful.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2019 | 01:17 AM
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Originally Posted by caravaggio2000
I'd start by checking all the vacuum lines for leaks. Next hook up a vacuum gauge and get a general idea of its health. Set the carburetor up using the vacuum gauge. Check all your plugs, note the condition of each. check all your wires. Check and set the timing.

Once all of that is set, if you still have the problem, check the condition of the transmission fluid. Are you sure it is oil leaking under your truck and not transmission fluid? Take the inspection plate off and check the condition of the flexplate as best you can (I found a small mirror and the camera on my phone very helpful during this). Wipe everything down and clean it up while you are down there. Next time you look you might have an easier job finding where your leak is coming from.

It could be a lot of things from a vacuum leak or bad tune to something warped or breaking. This is a good place to learn how to fix stuff and diagnose your truck. I have hardly any idea about any of it, but there are a lot of people here who do. Take a lot of pictures and post them here. A video of it doing this would be very helpful.
Id love to tinker around with it and figure out whats going on but it isnt my truck, Id buy it as a project but it just is not at the project price. If I knew for sure it was nothing major, id totally buy it because its got to be one of the cleanest original truck in my state (rust wise).
 
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Old Jul 22, 2019 | 05:40 AM
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If its not a project price, keep looking. It could be simple.....but if its simple seller probably would have had it fixed. The risk is ALL yours. Unless you can diagnose the problem and know what it will take prior to buying I would not risk it unless you get it for a really cheap price. You would be buying a truck you can't drive. Price should be really cheap.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2019 | 01:57 PM
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You are right, I should keep looking. Only reason I am looking back is the guy is in need of selling and I might be able to make out with a nice truck.
I've tried piecing some clues together on what it could be, I think, right now it is a misfire or just poorly running once a load is introduced at idle and here is why; it has been sitting for a while but when idling it runs fine, you shift it and the engine sounds horrible, sounds like it is barely able to keep running. Once you start moving past idle, it sounds perfect. Shifts perfect and drives perfect after that. I'm thinking if it was a mount, it would sound generally the same when it's shaking. Other possibility is that the transmission is messed up at idle speeds? I'm not sure I don't know much about these things.

On another note, does anyone know how this shift lever works? It doesn't clunk into gear like normal.
 
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