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Those things can't just be bolted together "close enough". If it's bolted together off-center enough you'll never get it in without brute force and when you do, there go the bushings in the center bore and it will leak when installed and ran. There are tools (commercially available or home-made) to do this.
If you never took the pump apart or used a tool to align the pump halves, you have a stack problem and something is not installed all the way, bottoming out the pump before it's seated in the case. The coast clutch is the hard one if it's not pre-assembled with the overdrive gear assembly. I've never used the tool as it just takes patience putting in the coast clutch drum BEFORE the overdrive clutch plates (reverse of the manual instructions). It really can't be a stack problem aft of the center support or you'd never get that in.
thank for your reply. To answer your question I did not split the pump. The coast clutch drum went in smoothly and everything is meshed together perfectly
I did however get the pump seated and have a new concern. The input shaft will not move freely, I can’t rotate it or remove it with the pump fully seated, the output shaft does turn. Is this normal?
Those things can't just be bolted together "close enough". If it's bolted together off-center enough you'll never get it in without brute force and when you do, there go the bushings in the center bore and it will leak when installed and ran. There are tools (commercially available or home-made) to do this.
If you never took the pump apart or used a tool to align the pump halves, you have a stack problem and something is not installed all the way, bottoming out the pump before it's seated in the case. The coast clutch is the hard one if it's not pre-assembled with the overdrive gear assembly. I've never used the tool as it just takes patience putting in the coast clutch drum BEFORE the overdrive clutch plates (reverse of the manual instructions). It really can't be a stack problem aft of the center support or you'd never get that in.
I did not split the pump, so it’s not that. Also the CC drum went in perfectly and I’m confident it’s not any of that.
I get the pump to seat nicely but now the input shaft cannot be removed or rotated. Is that normal? The output shaft still spins freely.
If you tighten the pump bolts with the shaft in place, it will bind up the shaft.
Back off the bolts. Remove the shaft. Then tighten the bolts to spec. Re install the shaft.
ended up pulling the pump again and found that the OD ring gear wasn’t meshed right with the clutches on the coast clutch cylinder. After I got that sorted out it helped me a lot to push the subassembly as close as I could to the center of the case and this helped me slide the pump right in. Im confident it all went together correctly.
the book I have states the input shaft should project 1- 1/2 inches from the pump stator but I’m measuring 1- 7/16”. Is that something to be concerned about?
The coast clutch is the hard one if it's not pre-assembled with the overdrive gear assembly.
Don't feel bad. It happens and the reason I'm familiar with this problem is the way I assemble them. The first one ate my lunch too but all of them after that have just taken time and patience. I use a 90 degree pick to check that the coast clutch hub is riding on the thrust bearing in the OD planet housing.
As for the distance you measured, I couldn't say other than to make sure your input shaft is inserted correctly as it will go in BOTH DIRECTIONS. I've never measured the protrusion myself.
The end with the higher amount of machined surface goes in first!
Thanks to everyone’s help the transmission is now back to one piece. I’m up to the part where I flush the cooler and change the torque converter. What’s the best method of rotating the crank to get to the TC bolts? I’m thinking Bump the engine with the starter?
Pry on the ring gear (one tooth at a time...don't get greedy and break the transmission case) or use a 15/16" socket on the center of the balancer at the front.
Got the TC swapped out and so I thought to myself.. why not put 10 quarts in the transmission... well bad idea as It turns out
A puddle on fluid started building out the tail shaft. After I tended to the the god awful mess I just made I came to wonder.
did I install something wrong or did I simply overfill it. I suspect there is a problem in the tail shaft orrrrr the driveshaft makes the final seal? Gaaaaaaaaaaa what have I done?
Edit: as I retrace my steps it looks like I used about 12 quarts before The blood started spilling
The torque converter will not fill unless the engine is running. So the trans is overfilled and the converter is empty. Start the engine, run it for 60 seconds, and then check the level. It may still be overfilled because the converter itself holds around eight quarts.
Yes, the tailshaft housing bushing/seal and the driveshaft slip joint are the "final" seal at the rear of a 2wd (RWD) transmission. The 4x4 ones with a transfer case hanging off of the rear don't have that setup and the transfer case input shaft seal and a gasket between the transmission and transfer case are the dam in that scenario. With the four wheel drive models, if you put in more than about 12 quarts initially, the fluid fills the entire case and starts running out of the transmission case vent on the top. To be honest, I put in a lot initially in my rebuilds just to give the frictions a little extra "soak" in ATF before the initial fire-up since they usually sit for a little while and have a few days to a week to drip-dry. I don't typically soak mine in a pan for very long as I assemble them....it's a splash-and-stack.
here’s a pic of the carnage, I can’t help but laugh at the mess
anyway....
got the transmission installed all nicey nice. Every nut and bolt. Installed 2 charged battery and now I have a new mystery to solve.
the van has remote keyless entry and something is not letting the van start. I’ve read threads and threads on the pats system and I think that is my new problem. My brother and I jumped the battery to the starter and it cranked nice and smoothly, so I’ve got that going for me. My next step is to look for spliced wires and then connect with forscan and see what I can find out. Also going to replace the battery in my “champion” key fob... hope you all make the best out of the last week in this decade! Im sure trying to finish as much as I can before Jan 1st
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