1999 E150 Ball Joints?
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7th Gear
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1999 E150 Ball Joints?
I have been getting conflicting opinions regarding the need to replace the lower ball joints on my 1999 E150 (109K miles). My Ford dealer pointed them out at 100K, but in taking the van to a knowledge front end shop, after an extensive check, they said that the only problem with the lower ball joints is the rubber boots are torn. Both shops have pointed to the need of a new Center Link in the steering and servicing the wheel bearings....both I plan to do soon.
I feel like the front end shop is being honest and not trying to over sell. However, I don't have a feel for the idea of waiting on doing the ball joints. My gut says do them, but I am hoping someone has some insight into the merits of waiting...it would be cheaper...but???
Thanks for your help and insight!
I feel like the front end shop is being honest and not trying to over sell. However, I don't have a feel for the idea of waiting on doing the ball joints. My gut says do them, but I am hoping someone has some insight into the merits of waiting...it would be cheaper...but???
Thanks for your help and insight!
Last edited by Unclegrumpy; Jul 17, 2019 at 09:57 PM. Reason: error
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
If the moisture excluding boots aren't doing their job then that'd be more than enough reason to replace them for me---in fairly short order they'll deteriorate and could fail without warning. Of course that'd always happen at the absolutely most inconvenient moment or when a loved one is driving the van.
Sure its an expense you can temporarily avoid and there is that old line about not fixing what's not broke but to me torn boots are broke enough to warrant fixin'.
I use Moog bought from Amazon--they tend to be the least expensive seller.
BTW that's a decent shop advising you waiting isn't a death notice---keep them top of mind for future alignments or suspension work.
Sure its an expense you can temporarily avoid and there is that old line about not fixing what's not broke but to me torn boots are broke enough to warrant fixin'.
I use Moog bought from Amazon--they tend to be the least expensive seller.
BTW that's a decent shop advising you waiting isn't a death notice---keep them top of mind for future alignments or suspension work.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2014
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Yes, torn boots are a good reason. Like JWA, I also used Moog, top quality and they are not that expensive. I would also recommend doing all the ball joints not just the bottom. 1999 with only 109K... Hmmmm Nice.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Sounds like its premature to swap ball joints but keep in mind the factory didn't use greaseable parts--they might be ready to change out depending how this E150 has been loaded or used during its life.
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7th Gear
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Thanks for your comments and input!
I was planning to do all four ball joints if I decided to replace the lowers...at that point, it is really just the cost of the parts.
Been thinking about the greaseable fittings...or lack of them as well...which always seemed dumb to me...especially growing up with vehicles that had them everywhere. That said, I have always gone with Motorcraft on this van and my F150 if possible. However, I don't think the Motorcraft ball joints have grease fittings. Not sure that it matters that much, but that leads to the question if the Moog ones do.
Thanks again!
I was planning to do all four ball joints if I decided to replace the lowers...at that point, it is really just the cost of the parts.
Been thinking about the greaseable fittings...or lack of them as well...which always seemed dumb to me...especially growing up with vehicles that had them everywhere. That said, I have always gone with Motorcraft on this van and my F150 if possible. However, I don't think the Motorcraft ball joints have grease fittings. Not sure that it matters that much, but that leads to the question if the Moog ones do.
Thanks again!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
I've only bought the Moog parts with Zerks aka grease fittings--same for their tie rod ends and every other suspension part. Like most anyone else any part that moves under a load and cannot be greased is just plain silly. Moog might offer a non-greaseable part but I've never paid attention so can't say one way or another. Like yourself typically its Motorcraft parts only for me unless there is another brand that's better suited for a job. In the case of ball joints or other front end parts Moog is the better brand. (I think Motorcraft offers replacement front suspension parts with Zerks but don't know that to be true---might pay to shop around, even call the dealership.)
The only exception I've made is with Spicer u-joints that are said to be lifetime lubricated from the beginning and are stronger than their greaseable counterparts. I'll trust that brand's claims but have yet to put 100K miles on those I've installed---time will tell but I'd not hesitate to use or recommend them again.
The only exception I've made is with Spicer u-joints that are said to be lifetime lubricated from the beginning and are stronger than their greaseable counterparts. I'll trust that brand's claims but have yet to put 100K miles on those I've installed---time will tell but I'd not hesitate to use or recommend them again.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: NE Tennessee
Usually you'll start getting the creeky door sound when you turn the steering when they are getting bad or uneven tire wear. If you've ever had one go south while driving you'd go ahead and replace them. I was lucky I was pulling into a driveway when mine let go and just got a tie-rod end in the collateral damage. It was a chevy at around 120,000.
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7th Gear
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Thanks for the additional information!
I too had a Chevy with 100K on it have a ball joint break. I was really lucky that time. After a day of high speed mountain winter driving, going about 800 miles in the snow and over miles of washboard ice ruts, I drove into a grocery store parking lot at about 11 pm to call the friend I was going to visit. As I aimed for a pay phone, I slowly went over a speed bump, and the next thing I knew after a loud crunch was I was sitting on the bump with one wheel going sideways. Totally forgot about that until you mentioned your Chevy.
I too had a Chevy with 100K on it have a ball joint break. I was really lucky that time. After a day of high speed mountain winter driving, going about 800 miles in the snow and over miles of washboard ice ruts, I drove into a grocery store parking lot at about 11 pm to call the friend I was going to visit. As I aimed for a pay phone, I slowly went over a speed bump, and the next thing I knew after a loud crunch was I was sitting on the bump with one wheel going sideways. Totally forgot about that until you mentioned your Chevy.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Bay Area
JWA, do you remove the ball joints yourself? If so, what press do you use? Last time I replaced the ball joints in my E350 van, I took the steering knuckles to my local mechanic and he removed and replaced all 4 ball joints for me.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
I've watched a few of my own being replaced, each time the knuckles were completely removed from the vehicle. First time a beefy guy with a BFH knocked them out with help from a 3" thick steel plate with various sized holes that supported the knuckle but still allowed the ball joints to fall out. Using special drive tools they hand hammered them back in place. FWIW that van is STILL running on the same Moog ball joints--has to be 10 years and 100K + (or more) miles by now.
Second time I had the 2008 brake upgrade performed along with all the front steering parts. The mechanic at that time used the typical press---he does this job frequently for a fleet he maintains for a large customer. They have quite a few parcel vans (aka bread trucks) based on the E-Series chassis FWIW the labor for all four ball joints and brake upgrade parts exchange was a whopping $300.
That wasn't a fair cost so I gave him $400--he was appreciative but not nearly as much as me.
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