E4OD overheating
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E4OD overheating
Hello all. This is my first post here. I've been a bit more active on the .org but they aren't nearly as active as you all are here.
Basically, my E4OD is overheating.
My issues begin back in March of 2018. I lost 4th gear, and rebuilt my transmission myself. New clutches/steels, shift kit, etc. I also added a Derale transmission cooler.
So far, I rarely drive the truck very far. It's a commuter, maybe 20-30 miles a day.
I seem to notice my trans temp guage climb up to 200+ as I'm driving around town doing around 45 mph.The worst of it has been around 210-220. If I go to the other side of town on the highway, doing 65+ mph, the trans stays around 180.
Now, I'm not entirely knowledgeable about how our transmissions work, but what seems to me is that the O/D gear does not heat up as much as 2nd/3rd gear.
What am I missing?
Btw, it's a 1997 F250 7.3L.
Basically, my E4OD is overheating.
My issues begin back in March of 2018. I lost 4th gear, and rebuilt my transmission myself. New clutches/steels, shift kit, etc. I also added a Derale transmission cooler.
So far, I rarely drive the truck very far. It's a commuter, maybe 20-30 miles a day.
I seem to notice my trans temp guage climb up to 200+ as I'm driving around town doing around 45 mph.The worst of it has been around 210-220. If I go to the other side of town on the highway, doing 65+ mph, the trans stays around 180.
Now, I'm not entirely knowledgeable about how our transmissions work, but what seems to me is that the O/D gear does not heat up as much as 2nd/3rd gear.
What am I missing?
Btw, it's a 1997 F250 7.3L.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 7,210
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From: Bahstun
How do you have the cooler installed and do you have pics of it? Mostly interested in how its plumbed up
What coolant T stat do you have and what is Engine Oil Temp at when Trans gets hot?
in 4th when TC locks, there is no slipping of the TC.
The unlocked mode makes heat as it converts torque via slipping
Can you test your probe with a pot of boiling water to rule out the gauge?
What coolant T stat do you have and what is Engine Oil Temp at when Trans gets hot?
in 4th when TC locks, there is no slipping of the TC.
The unlocked mode makes heat as it converts torque via slipping
Can you test your probe with a pot of boiling water to rule out the gauge?
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Thanks for the reply! I'll get a pic soon.
It's mounted in front of the radiator with the stock lines just plumbed into it. I have verified that it has good flow, something like 1 qt in 15 seconds.
I'm not sure what coolant tstat I have, and the gauge on the dash never rises above the N of normal (not that I trust it).
I tend to believe the transmission gauge as when the trans gets hot, atf leaks out around the front seal.
im sure I could test the gauge, as its mounted on one of the trans cooler return lines.
sorry, I'm currently on mobile.
It's mounted in front of the radiator with the stock lines just plumbed into it. I have verified that it has good flow, something like 1 qt in 15 seconds.
I'm not sure what coolant tstat I have, and the gauge on the dash never rises above the N of normal (not that I trust it).
I tend to believe the transmission gauge as when the trans gets hot, atf leaks out around the front seal.
im sure I could test the gauge, as its mounted on one of the trans cooler return lines.
sorry, I'm currently on mobile.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 7,210
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From: Bahstun
only the cooler is used?
this is how I plumb a cooler but up here in the cold area, i like to use a cooler with tstat by pass
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 11,278
Likes: 1,658
From: Las Cruces New Mexico
Whats your average speed in those. 20-30 mile commutes?
Does your TC lock up in 3rd after is up to temp?
Did you change out TC when you rebuild the tranny?
Any chance you have a caliper slide pins sticking, or over adjusted rear brake drums or simply the E brake is on?
200° is normal in hot days if you are city driving.
Does your TC lock up in 3rd after is up to temp?
Did you change out TC when you rebuild the tranny?
Any chance you have a caliper slide pins sticking, or over adjusted rear brake drums or simply the E brake is on?
200° is normal in hot days if you are city driving.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 14,377
Likes: 609
From: evansville in
I am going to say the aux cooler is not enough. Long ago I upgraded the aux on mine. I used a parts store aux cooler I thought was reasonable size coming from the hotrod /car world.
It was woefully inadequate after getting a good trans temp gauge.
I swapped it out for a truecool unit rated for 40k lbs. I can not remember the pn but a Google search will locate it.
That wasnl majical for me towing and driving. I installed it to the rear of the front bumper as it's a very compatible size for that location.
I rarely go over 180-190 even towing in summer.
It was woefully inadequate after getting a good trans temp gauge.
I swapped it out for a truecool unit rated for 40k lbs. I can not remember the pn but a Google search will locate it.
That wasnl majical for me towing and driving. I installed it to the rear of the front bumper as it's a very compatible size for that location.
I rarely go over 180-190 even towing in summer.
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I plumbed it according to the original plumbing, so just the aux cooler by itself. It does not go through my radiator. I used a Derale cooler sold on RiffRaff Diesel I believe.
Average speed during my daily commutes is around 45-50 with about 5 miles of it being around 75.
The temp isn't as bad during the winter, of course. The same commute would get me to 170 ish instead of 200+.
Torque Converter does lock up. If I do 40 mph and tap the brake pedal, the rpm jumps up.
When I rebuilt the tranny, the torque converter was replaced with a low stall converter from RacerX.
I haven't had the need to touch rear brakes in a while, and as far as I know, the E brake is disengaged, as I can tell when it is engaged.
Average speed during my daily commutes is around 45-50 with about 5 miles of it being around 75.
The temp isn't as bad during the winter, of course. The same commute would get me to 170 ish instead of 200+.
Torque Converter does lock up. If I do 40 mph and tap the brake pedal, the rpm jumps up.
When I rebuilt the tranny, the torque converter was replaced with a low stall converter from RacerX.
I haven't had the need to touch rear brakes in a while, and as far as I know, the E brake is disengaged, as I can tell when it is engaged.
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OK! I just got home on the bike and checked the truck. It IS plumbed into the radiator. I was wrong, and I never noticed before. The lines are ran in this order:
1. Line on front end of transmission. With trans temp sensor in line.
2. Radiator inlet on bottom.
3. Radiator outlet on bottom.
4. Aux cooler inlet.
5. Aux cooler outlet.
6. Into trans at port on the rear end.
To me, that seems like it matches what it needs to. The front of the trans line is the outlet to the radiator/cooler. It goes through the radiator first, then the cooler, then back to the trans in the back. Does that sound correct to you guys?
1. Line on front end of transmission. With trans temp sensor in line.
2. Radiator inlet on bottom.
3. Radiator outlet on bottom.
4. Aux cooler inlet.
5. Aux cooler outlet.
6. Into trans at port on the rear end.
To me, that seems like it matches what it needs to. The front of the trans line is the outlet to the radiator/cooler. It goes through the radiator first, then the cooler, then back to the trans in the back. Does that sound correct to you guys?
More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 643
Likes: 3
From: North Branford
OK! I just got home on the bike and checked the truck. It IS plumbed into the radiator. I was wrong, and I never noticed before. The lines are ran in this order:
1. Line on front end of transmission. With trans temp sensor in line.
2. Radiator inlet on bottom.
3. Radiator outlet on bottom.
4. Aux cooler inlet.
5. Aux cooler outlet.
6. Into trans at port on the rear end.
To me, that seems like it matches what it needs to. The front of the trans line is the outlet to the radiator/cooler. It goes through the radiator first, then the cooler, then back to the trans in the back. Does that sound correct to you guys?
1. Line on front end of transmission. With trans temp sensor in line.
2. Radiator inlet on bottom.
3. Radiator outlet on bottom.
4. Aux cooler inlet.
5. Aux cooler outlet.
6. Into trans at port on the rear end.
To me, that seems like it matches what it needs to. The front of the trans line is the outlet to the radiator/cooler. It goes through the radiator first, then the cooler, then back to the trans in the back. Does that sound correct to you guys?
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Great! I'm glad that is settled.
Next concern of mine regarding this is the transmission fluid level. How do I accurately check and fill it? The procedures that I've read online all kind of point towards cycling the gear selector through each gear then getting out and checking the level. I also have a deep fluid pan from Mag-Hytec.
What is the correct procedure?
Next concern of mine regarding this is the transmission fluid level. How do I accurately check and fill it? The procedures that I've read online all kind of point towards cycling the gear selector through each gear then getting out and checking the level. I also have a deep fluid pan from Mag-Hytec.
What is the correct procedure?
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 24,731
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From: SE Florida
When the torque converter unlocks the temperature in the output line to the cooler gets HOT. Does this mean the trans is overheating? No, it does not. You should move the sensor to the test port in the trans. This will tell you the actual temperature of the transmission, not the temperature in the hot line.
Next concern of mine regarding this is the transmission fluid level. How do I accurately check and fill it? The procedures that I've read online all kind of point towards cycling the gear selector through each gear then getting out and checking the level. I also have a deep fluid pan from Mag-Hytec.
What is the correct procedure?
What is the correct procedure?