Fuel Pump Replacement
2004 F350 Drw
V10
4x4
Crew Cab
8' bed
So a while back my truck was spanked by a moron looking at his phone instead of whats in the windshield.
I am going to re-build her as there is no frame damage I can find.
In the process of course I will take the opportunity to make some upgrades and proactive repairs.
So the bed is off the truck, My plan is to re-build the rear end. With a detroit limited, or locker I have not decided yet.
but the big question is fuel pump. Figure at 205k the pump has put in a good service life and since I have direct access to it I should probably swap it before I have to. Perhaps.....
Two Questions.
What do you guys think about the proactive?
What fuel pump would you recommend?
Any other gotcha's I should think about?
(Probably do the exhaust too while I am at it)
I have installed parts store fuel pumps (Spectre ?) for friends in the past and wasn’t keen on using them. I’ve used Bosch in my son’s Civic as it’s a great quality pump. For my F-350 V10, if it ever goes bad I would only use Motorcraft. I believe they are considerably more expensive but to me, they’re worth it as they last, what, 200,000 miles or more?
If the budget allows, I would do it.
— Dave
I have installed parts store fuel pumps (Spectre ?) for friends in the past and wasn’t keen on using them. I’ve used Bosch in my son’s Civic as it’s a great quality pump. For my F-350 V10, if it ever goes bad I would only use Motorcraft. I believe they are considerably more expensive but to me, they’re worth it as they last, what, 200,000 miles or more?
If the budget allows, I would do it.
— Dave
I have installed parts store fuel pumps (Spectre ?) for friends in the past and wasn’t keen on using them. I’ve used Bosch in my son’s Civic as it’s a great quality pump. For my F-350 V10, if it ever goes bad I would only use Motorcraft. I believe they are considerably more expensive but to me, they’re worth it as they last, what, 200,000 miles or more?
If the budget allows, I would do it.
— Dave
The budget does allow it. I am leaning the same direction as you are with the Motorcraft. I did the same thing with the shocks. The originals lasted me well over 100k. Couldnt see using anything else.
Thank you.
Thank you for the input. I can understand the theory of that as well. I had two options in mind when I thought Fuel pump. One was to replace the pump since I can literally put my hands on it right now, the second was to replace the hang straps and all the hardware so that it would be easy to replace when the time actually arrives. I have to assume that 200k+ is good for a fuel pump.
Ford writes the specs and contracts others to make these pumps after testing prototypes to ensure they meet specs.
Delphi supposedly made the OEM (Motorcraft) pumps, at least on the earlier Super Duty trucks. Another manufacturer (Denso?) may be making them now.
Delphi's website says they are designed and tested to last 150,000 miles or 7-8 years.
Oftentimes, dust and abrasives passing through the charcoal filter canister are the reason for fuel pump failure.
If abrasive dirt gets into the tank when it is opened without being completely cleaned, the replacement pump will fail prematurely.
A lot people replace the entire sending unit assembly. I did not find that necessary. If your tank is clean and corrosion free and your gas gauge works well, you may just want to do the pump itself.
My take:
Similar to yours, mine lasted 16 years and just over 250,000 miles. My guess is that yours is about used up.
Your decision should be based in part on the potential of getting stranded and then getting three tons of truck to a place you can work on it.
Removing the tank and replacing the pump isn't bad, but it will put you under the truck for about half a day if you haven't done it before. You Tube has lots of how-to videos.
Reconnecting the three lines to the filler spout was the trickiest part of the job from underneath. that will be easier from the top.
Lowering the tank safely is difficult (I used ratchet straps) but if your pump fails with a tank full of fuel you have to deal with emptying it too.
Emptying it will be much easier from the top.
I live in a dry climate and most of my driving is on paved roads so corrosion wasn't an issue on the hardware. If your conditions are different then access from above for cleaning and using penetrating oil, etc. would be a plus.
You should definitely check the charcoal canister and the lines from it to the tank for dirt and dust. If you find anything in the lines, replace them and the canister. If you find dirt in the tank clean, you must clean it completely.
I used a Delphi pump. I've driven the truck about 45,000 miles since I replaced it.
I would do the job now.
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Ford writes the specs and contracts others to make these pumps after testing prototypes to ensure they meet specs.
Delphi supposedly made the OEM (Motorcraft) pumps, at least on the earlier Super Duty trucks. Another manufacturer (Denso?) may be making them now.
Delphi's website says they are designed and tested to last 150,000 miles or 7-8 years.
Oftentimes, dust and abrasives passing through the charcoal filter canister are the reason for fuel pump failure.
If abrasive dirt gets into the tank when it is opened without being completely cleaned, the replacement pump will fail prematurely.
A lot people replace the entire sending unit assembly. I did not find that necessary. If your tank is clean and corrosion free and your gas gauge works well, you may just want to do the pump itself.
My take:
Similar to yours, mine lasted 16 years and just over 250,000 miles. My guess is that yours is about used up.
Your decision should be based in part on the potential of getting stranded and then getting three tons of truck to a place you can work on it.
Removing the tank and replacing the pump isn't bad, but it will put you under the truck for about half a day if you haven't done it before. You Tube has lots of how-to videos.
Reconnecting the three lines to the filler spout was the trickiest part of the job from underneath. that will be easier from the top.
Lowering the tank safely is difficult (I used ratchet straps) but if your pump fails with a tank full of fuel you have to deal with emptying it too.
Emptying it will be much easier from the top.
I live in a dry climate and most of my driving is on paved roads so corrosion wasn't an issue on the hardware. If your conditions are different then access from above for cleaning and using penetrating oil, etc. would be a plus.
You should definitely check the charcoal canister and the lines from it to the tank for dirt and dust. If you find anything in the lines, replace them and the canister. If you find dirt in the tank clean, you must clean it completely.
I used a Delphi pump. I've driven the truck about 45,000 miles since I replaced it.
I would do the job now.
You ABSOLUTELY talked me into what I already knew I had to do. But of course tried convincing myself that it was not 100% neccesary. I am ordering straps and a pump now.
I carry a 4klb camper on the back of this truck when it's running. Sometimes tow a horse trailer behind that (For the steel horse) You Damn well know that the pump is going to fail while I have my foot into it and climbing a freakin' mountain.
Since I have already resolved myself to fixing the leaky rear diff and ordered all new seals, bearings and a TrueTrac diff What the hell. A couple hundred more is not going to make a difference.
Thank you all for your responses. 200k to me seems like a fair expectation of a fuel pump.
It’s all about SAVING additional work/time in the future.
As suggested, I would install new fuel tank straps as well. Here in Ohio they are always rusted out so I usually just cut them off instead of fighting rusted hardware.
— Dave









