I have recently aquired a 2014 F250 6.7L Powerstroke. It has a 4 inch lift with 33" BFG AT's. I am reading 11 MPG on the dash after reset (in town). The truck has 57000 miles.

I would like to do a delete and tune and replace the intake with my main goal being to increase my MPG's.

I have very little knowledge about all of this other than what I have been able to aquire from friends who have deleted their 7.3s.

It has been suggested that I get a S&B intake, 5" mandrel bent stainless exhaust, and a tuner.

Would like to hear thoughts and opinions on steps to take to increase MPG. I wont be towing anything at this time but intend on getting a 5th Wheel in a couple of years.

Thanks for and guidance and suggestions.

 

Deleting isn't going to gain you the MPG I think you are anticipating. Removing the active regeneration process will net about 1 MPG, a cost you'll likely never make back with the tuning expenses. Getting rid of the lift and tires will provide the best results to increasing MPG, especially if you plan on purchasing a fifth wheel trailer. I'm guessing you didn't buy the truck to intend to do that though. Can a fifth wheel even be safely pulled level with a 4" lift?

The 7.3L didn't have SCR, a DPF or an EGR cooler. These trucks are quite a bit more complicated.

The 6.7L stock filter setup is good unless you are planning for a high HP increase tune.

You have a lot of research to do to make an informed decision that works for you. It's difficult to answer exactly what you need to do for your use case. It's easier to answer specific questions based on a narrowed list of options.
I don't think you need the intake or the 5" exhaust. There is also keeping the EGR cooler or removing the EGR cooler, which requires a kit. Both are options.

The EZ LYNK and SCT X4 tuning hardware is the more popular options today (that I am aware of) with custom tunes (important: don't buy canned tunes).

 

Kper05, thank you for your input.

I am definately not in love with the lift and big tires as I find the ride to be stiff (every bump in the road feels like a speedbump) and 11 MPG isn't going to cut it for me with the traveling that I bought the truck to do. For me, at 51 years old, the fuel efficiency and comfort trump the looks although, I do think my truck looks pretty darn good.
I am getting ready to make a 3500 mile trip in it next week and will see what I get calculating the MPG manually. I notice that with the lift and tires my speedo is showing about 5mph slower than what the truck is actually traveling. I'm sure this is causing an inaccurate MPG reading on the dash. I also have been enjoying the power and have been a bit harder on the pedal because of it. I will try to watch the RPM's on the trip and see how much improvement I can make. This will at least be a starting point.

 

The lift isn't causing the speedo error but I'm surprised the tires are causing it to be off that far off. What is the original tire size? It should be on a sticker in the driver's side door jam. Most of the trucks are equipped with 34" tires from the factory.

Give us your current tire size (completely as in 275/65R20 or whatever it is) and stock tire size.

Forscan (a super easy computer program to use) can set your tire size to something closer to what you have. Only factory options are available though.

 

Are those BFG's the KO2? Do you know the history, is it possible this truck had different wheels/tires prior to purchase? 5 MPH off is a lot. I have the Cooper ST MAXX in 295/70 R18, stock wheels, stock suspension.

 

This is from this site here. A very helpful tool...

https://tiresize.com/calculator/

 

Great link for size comparisons but this one takes less math for speedo differences



speedo calc

 

I added a picture of the truck to my album.
The tires I have are the KO2s and they are brand new. I am not aware of the history of these tires but when I was researching what to replace the old Nittos with the KO2's
seemed to have good ratings for an all weather.

I am out of town until Thursday and away from my truck so I can’t check the factory sticker to get the wheel size on the door until I get back.

Did I screw up getting the KO2s?

The tires on the truck right now are LT325 60R 20
I doubt it came from the factory with 20s given the aftermarket lift and aftermarket wheels.
I will get the info from the door when I get back on Thursday.

 

Your truck looks good, the previous owner did it right. I am partial to the grey as well. Once I realized you may have the KO2's, those aren't as aggressive as I was picturing for hurting MPG. Those are reasonable tread tires.

It looks like a Lariat trim so it's possible it came with 20" factory wheels.

I learned that minor changes quickly impact MPG on these heavy trucks. I lost 0.5 MPG going from Nitto Terra Grapplers to Toyo Open Country AT2 and lost another 0.5 MPG replacing those with the Cooper ST MAXX. All 295/70 R18.

Another thought towards your long term plan is to confirm those aftermarket wheels are rated for a heavy fifth wheel. It may be that you decide once this set of tires are worn out that you drop to a smaller tire size and return to stock height.

I think you need to get some hand calc numbers on paper to confirm your actual MPG and get the speedometer corrected as that helps with transmission shift strategy as well.

Here is an example of my MPG when all stock, emissions and the aggressive Cooper tires on factory XLT wheels. This is when I was daily driving it, "T" is for towing (8,000 lbs).
I am deleted now and I have increased to the low 14 MPG (sometimes 13.7) but I didn't delete looking for more MPG or because I specifically wanted to. After spending $1,400 on various emissions repairs and later in derate pending another $1,000 emissions repair (what was next, the $4,300 DPF?), I threw my hands up and resolved my issues, even two unrelated issues Ford never could resolve. What I'm trying to say, you're never going to see 20 MPG for example and deleting is around a $2,000 adventure with the necessary custom tunes. My average savings in cost per mile (just considering MPG increase) so far is $0.025 so if I was removing emissions just to increase MPG, it would be 80,000 miles just to break even if fuel costs remained the same average (one year data sample).

12.2
11.3 T
13.1
12.3
13.1
13.1
12.4
11.4 T
13.2
13.5
12.7
12.6
12.8

 

After looking at your results I am feeling much better on what I am getting. Several friends have told me that there would be little impact on my mileage when towing and it seems that is the case looking at your results above. The MPG dash reading on my truck is low due to the speedo being off and I'm probably going to find that I am getting in the 12-13 range on the highway when manual calculating. I will be driving the truck from Colorado to Florida and then back again next week so I will have ample time to calculate my highway mileage and see where I am at. Being that the truck is new to me, and my first diesel, (coming from a 5.4 Titan) I have been a little heavy on the pedal. The power under the hood makes it hard not to be sometimes. I will ease up on the pedal and manually calculate and see whaere I am at.
I really appreciate your input on the emissions as it just saved me a couple thousand $$ on doing a delete that would have resulted in little MPG increase. The reason you deleted your truck makes perfect sense and I will take that knowledge with me going forward when issues with the emissions system start to raise their ugly head.

I'll post back with an update when I get to FL around the 13th.

 

I'm stock, no lift or leveling kit*(yet) and have the 20" 275/65/20. My speedometer has been off about 2 mph when I bought it. That is probably why my computer is off when calculating MPG. I have 3.55s and here's my latest hand calculated mileage, daily driven no towing:

Starting latest first...

15.89
15.81
15.23
15.40
15.47
15.32
14.32
14.78
14.48
15.14
16.78
15.34
15.51
15.54
15.16
14.51
14.82
13.89

These go out to late March where the MPGs drop because of the winter fuel. These all include regens. I have slowed down some to get the MPGs up and carry my money further at the pump. A lot of my driving is country roads with hills and stop signs. I have an expressway I take into work and driving in the city where I work is about 2 miles off the expressway to give you an idea of a daily driven stock truck's MPG.

 

Check out this thread:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ut-delete.html

 

The speedometer and what the truck reads isn't always equal. Put your dash screen into engineering mode, locate the MPH and match that to a quality GPS. When I had factory (useless to me) tires, the truck speed was accurate vs what the speedometer reported.

 

What do you mean by engineering mode, kper?

I have compared it to my GPS and Goggle Maps and it's off 2 mph.

 

That's how ford programmed it. Engineering mode will show you what the truck is reading for your speed. You can also see it with Forscan. Usually the truck is seeing your true speed and using it for mileage calculations but for some damn reason Ford thinks it needs to show 2 mph faster on the speedo. Sucks. Apparently U.K. vehicles have a 4 mph bias.