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I installed new weather strip on my 2000 f250. Ordered from amazon and it’s got 2 hollow tubes instead of the factory 1 hollow tube.
The doors are now very difficult to shut you really have to slam them good. I tried adjusting the strikers but after loosening the torx bolts they won’t move in or out at all, like they are non adjustable.
My biggest question and here is where I need the correct info... can the door at the hinge be adjusted inward and outward ? Reason being when looking at my driver door when shut prior to installing the new weather strip, when the door is closed where the seam or gap between the front of the door and fender meet the door sits further in than the fender. In theory if you could adjust the front of the door out away from the cab 1/8th of an inch it seems it would help with the added weather strip. It also seems the door at the hinge not being flush with the fender would not have come from the factory this way. Almost as someone has adjusted them before. I’ve had the truck since 2006 and never messed with anything but the po May have.
I know the additional tubing makes it tighter but the passenger door is flush with the fender and it’s not bad closing with the new weather strip. This is why I think something is out of adjustment.
I was able to find in another thread the upper 2 and lower 2bolts on the hinge at the door “ not at the cab” can be loosened which seems it would do what I want it to but would this make the door sloppy.
note there is no up or down play in any of the doors so all the hinge pins are good.
Here you can see the adjustment I’m referring to.
I have a 2005 F-350 Supercab and installed new weatherstrip on both driver and passenger side during spring of 2018 due to the original weatherstrip tearing and getting some slight wind noise. I purchased the exact Ford part numbers and after installation it took a small increase in ‘oompf’ to get both doors to close fully. Since installation I haven’t had to use as much pressure when closing the doors.
Regarding door gaps: my panel gaps didn’t change at all. I did take my time making sure the weatherstrip was fully seated around the upper door latch/seat belt mechanism.
I would be surprised if the door was adjusted in the past, so much so where new weatherstrip would cause a noticeable panel gap. Did you purchase a Ford OEM seal or an aftermarket replacement?
I have a 2005 F-350 Supercab and installed new weatherstrip on both driver and passenger side during spring of 2018 due to the original weatherstrip tearing and getting some slight wind noise. I purchased the exact Ford part numbers and after installation it took a small increase in ‘oompf’ to get both doors to close fully. Since installation I haven’t had to use as much pressure when closing the doors.
Regarding door gaps: my panel gaps didn’t change at all. I did take my time making sure the weatherstrip was fully seated around the upper door latch/seat belt mechanism.
I would be surprised if the door was adjusted in the past, so much so where new weatherstrip would cause a noticeable panel gap. Did you purchase a Ford OEM seal or an aftermarket replacement?
— Dave
It’s afternarket and not much thicker than oem. All the doors are as you mention, extra oomph to get them closed but my driver door OMG 😮 . I’ve noticed this onset of that door for years and do believe if I could adjust it outward from the body then it would be just like the others which are not bad to close.
There's not much for in and out...But you could make a shim that would fit between the hinge mount on the cab pillar.
I hear ya on the shim. But according the the book in the above picture apparently you can move it outward. Here’s what my door looks like
1st pic you can see the passenger door is pretty flush with the fender. 2nd pic you can see how my door insets from the fender
Yeah thats pretty horrible, how does the door fit on the other end? Id put my money on the fender being aftermarket or bent. Alot of people jack them at the pinch welds and it bows the fender. You can shim behind the hinge no problem, but that is going to need alot. Theres a pretty minimal amount of movement shifting the door around on the hinge, I almost always end up oblonging the hinge holes.
Another option is to carefully take a prybar or something flat. Wrap it in tape and use it to carefully massage the height, obviously loosen the rear fender bolts. Do it with body spoons all the time without damage.
As for the door not closing great I would be suspect of the door hanging as they usually do. Slowly close the door and see if the latch and striker are lined up height wise. I see so many hanging, the striker actually hits the door metal just below the latch and slides up into it. Making it a PIA to close.
Yeah thats pretty horrible, how does the door fit on the other end? Id put my money on the fender being aftermarket or bent. Alot of people jack them at the pinch welds and it bows the fender. You can shim behind the hinge no problem, but that is going to need alot. Theres a pretty minimal amount of movement shifting the door around on the hinge, I almost always end up oblonging the hinge holes.
Another option is to carefully take a prybar or something flat. Wrap it in tape and use it to carefully massage the height, obviously loosen the rear fender bolts. Do it with body spoons all the time without damage.
As for the door not closing great I would be suspect of the door hanging as they usually do. Slowly close the door and see if the latch and striker are lined up height wise. I see so many hanging, the striker actually hits the door metal just below the latch and slides up into it. Making it a PIA to close.
Thanks for the advice on manipulating the fender. I doubt it’s been replaced but I could be wrong. Where the front door and rear door meet is nice and flush. I will look at the hinge and latch and see if it’s doing as you said.
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