When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a '19 F250 6.7L 4x4, that I purchased being very aware of what I was buying in terms of a "3/4T vs 1T". Please, if your here because you think you'll show me the light about "payload differences", this thread isn't worth your time.
I'm looking to buy (potentially) a Grand Design 311BHS. I've had a TT before but this will be our first fifth wheel. I've spent time in just about every RV, Truck and Towing forum. Watched hours of YouTube reviews, visited a few dealers, etc. There are a couple of you here who have similar setups with a F-250 and a GD 303 (currently our second candidate). Because this is our first fifth wheel I am not sure I have some of the little details understood when it comes time to look at the RV on the truck.
The two hitches I'm leaning towards are the AUH and the B&W Companion (truck has the 5th wheel prep system and 6'4" bed). The questions I'm hoping can be answered by those of you with experience are:
- what is a minimum "safe" distance (height) between the 5th wheel and the bed rails of the truck?
- Can the pin box be lifted high enough to fit the AUH ball without making any modifications to the truck? How much is "too much" in terms of stressing the frame on the RV? I am asking because of several comments about the current generation truck having a higher bed and maybe being something to keep an eye on since the AUH sits higher than a traditional 5th wheel hitch.
- How hard is it to "swap" the rear .. I know I'm going to say it wrong .. the rear 'blocks' on the truck to lower it? Does anyone happen to have a link or pictures to the part that is being changed? Something about going from a 4" to a 2" block...
- I have seen all kinds of videos with a RV at nearly 90 degrees to the truck. The twist/torque it appears to be putting on the RV, at least visually, is pretty significant. Are they really designed for that? I can't imagine it is good for any part of the RV to be under that much stress.
- Related to the above, with the GD specifically, looks like all of them have a conical front cap so is clearance when turning (not to hit the truck cab) still an issue or is that more of a "old school" when they were flat front caps?
I probably have more questions but this is probably a boring thread and if you read this far, thank you. Any other "first time 5th wheel" truck tips are welcome - unless you are hear to say something like "get a F-350 for payload" in which case I warned you this wasn't a thread for you
I have a '19 F250 6.7L 4x4, that I purchased being very aware of what I was buying in terms of a "3/4T vs 1T". Please, if your here because you think you'll show me the light about "payload differences", this thread isn't worth your time.
I'm looking to buy (potentially) a Grand Design 311BHS. I've had a TT before but this will be our first fifth wheel. I've spent time in just about every RV, Truck and Towing forum. Watched hours of YouTube reviews, visited a few dealers, etc. There are a couple of you here who have similar setups with a F-250 and a GD 303 (currently our second candidate). Because this is our first fifth wheel I am not sure I have some of the little details understood when it comes time to look at the RV on the truck.
The two hitches I'm leaning towards are the AUH and the B&W Companion (truck has the 5th wheel prep system and 6'4" bed). The questions I'm hoping can be answered by those of you with experience are:
- what is a minimum "safe" distance (height) between the 5th wheel and the bed rails of the truck?
- Can the pin box be lifted high enough to fit the AUH ball without making any modifications to the truck? How much is "too much" in terms of stressing the frame on the RV? I am asking because of several comments about the current generation truck having a higher bed and maybe being something to keep an eye on since the AUH sits higher than a traditional 5th wheel hitch.
- How hard is it to "swap" the rear .. I know I'm going to say it wrong .. the rear 'blocks' on the truck to lower it? Does anyone happen to have a link or pictures to the part that is being changed? Something about going from a 4" to a 2" block...
- I have seen all kinds of videos with a RV at nearly 90 degrees to the truck. The twist/torque it appears to be putting on the RV, at least visually, is pretty significant. Are they really designed for that? I can't imagine it is good for any part of the RV to be under that much stress.
- Related to the above, with the GD specifically, looks like all of them have a conical front cap so is clearance when turning (not to hit the truck cab) still an issue or is that more of a "old school" when they were flat front caps?
I probably have more questions but this is probably a boring thread and if you read this far, thank you. Any other "first time 5th wheel" truck tips are welcome - unless you are hear to say something like "get a F-350 for payload" in which case I warned you this wasn't a thread for you
I am a 5th wheel newbie too. I bought a GD 337RLS for my F350 SRW CCSB 6.2 4.30 gears. I am running the Andersen Ultimate Hitch and I love the functionality of it and its smooth for what it is. My bedrail clearance is between 7.5-8 inches. I believe the minimum is 5-6". I put the Andersen ball height in the middle hole and have the coupler on the kingpin installed reversed. Also install the hitch with the ball facing the tailgate. I lowered my truck 1.5 inches so I can fit it in my garage. It is not the hard to swap the rear block. Just do a search of that on here which you won't have a problem finding the part number which I can't remember. I just bought the blocks from the dealer but used the same U bolts and cut them off. I can make a 80 degree turn on my 5'er but its definitely not good for the axles. They make the caps on the fifth wheels more rounded so the shortbed trucks can tow them. You are not stressing the frame on the RV. The 303 RLS is a good(Common)combo for your F250 even though you'll come close to your payload numbers but will haul it safely because the payload numbers for an F250 diesel is not very high which Iam sure you know that.That 6.7 is a beast and will pull that trailer like its not back there. Probably will pull it no problem with the trailer wheels locked up dragging it down the road. Just being funny. Here are some pics
Last 2 pics is my truck empty and lowered 1.5 inches.
I am a 5th wheel newbie too. I bought a GD 337RLS for my F350 SRW CCSB 6.2 4.30 gears. I am running the Andersen Ultimate Hitch and I love the functionality of it and its smooth for what it is. My bedrail clearance is between 7.5-8 inches. I believe the minimum is 5-6". I put the Andersen ball height in the middle hole and have the coupler on the kingpin installed reversed. Also install the hitch with the ball facing the tailgate. I lowered my truck 1.5 inches so I can fit it in my garage. It is not the hard to swap the rear block. Just do a search of that on here which you won't have a problem finding the part number which I can't remember. I just bought the blocks from the dealer but used the same U bolts and cut them off. I can make a 80 degree turn on my 5'er but its definitely not good for the axles. They make the caps on the fifth wheels more rounded so the shortbed trucks can tow them. You are not stressing the frame on the RV. The 303 RLS is a good(Common)combo for your F250 even though you'll come close to your payload numbers but will haul it safely because the payload numbers for an F250 diesel is not very high which Iam sure you know that.That 6.7 is a beast and will pull that trailer like its not back there. Probably will pull it no problem with the trailer wheels locked up dragging it down the road. Just being funny. Here are some pics
Last 2 pics is my truck empty and lowered 1.5 inches.
Very nice. I have the exact same set-up, right down to the safety chains, and we have the 303, just a little smaller than yours. What topper did you go with for the truck? I’ve been looking but haven’t yet decided.
Very nice. I have the exact same set-up, right down to the safety chains, and we have the 303, just a little smaller than yours. What topper did you go with for the truck? I’ve been looking but haven’t yet decided.
Thank you. I went with a ARE Fusion color matching Tri-fold tonneau cover. I love it.
Thanks 2019RRSDLARIAT - I actually read your other thread and a lot of what you were going through is similar to what I'm trying to understand, so thanks for taking the time to post some other details here.
Thanks 2019RRSDLARIAT - I actually read your other thread and a lot of what you were going through is similar to what I'm trying to understand, so thanks for taking the time to post some other details here.
- what is a minimum "safe" distance (height) between the 5th wheel and the bed rails of the truck? 5-6" is usually considered minimum safe distance. I roll with 7-8" between the bed and camper, but we go boondocking a lot and on Forest Service roads it helps.
- Can the pin box be lifted high enough to fit the AUH ball without making any modifications to the truck? How much is "too much" in terms of stressing the frame on the RV? I am asking because of several comments about the current generation truck having a higher bed and maybe being something to keep an eye on since the AUH sits higher than a traditional 5th wheel hitch. I would say yes, but the newer trucks have a taller bed side height than the older trucks, like my 2000 7.3 diesel. Although, as you probably already know, the AUH ball can be moved to 3 different heights as well. So, between the pin box and the AUH ball, you should be able to find the right combination for your set up.
- How hard is it to "swap" the rear .. I know I'm going to say it wrong .. the rear 'blocks' on the truck to lower it? Does anyone happen to have a link or pictures to the part that is being changed? Something about going from a 4" to a 2" block... Someone with a newer truck will have to answer this, maybe you would have better luck in the 6.7 section of the forum? Keep in mind, the trucks being built now are designed to sag a bit in the rear to be just about level. I would say try hooking the trailer up first and see how it goes. If you need to lower the rear end from there, press on. The job should not be too involved though. I have swapped rear leaf springs and blocks before and it is just nuts and bolts and a impact wrench.
- I have seen all kinds of videos with a RV at nearly 90 degrees to the truck. The twist/torque it appears to be putting on the RV, at least visually, is pretty significant. Are they really designed for that? I can't imagine it is good for any part of the RV to be under that much stress. Yes, they are designed for that, but not all the time... There are times when the camper will be at an extreme angle to the truck, it happens. Tires take the most abuse when times like this take place. Suspension integrity should be checked regularly for signs of wear and imminent failure.
- Related to the above, with the GD specifically, looks like all of them have a conical front cap so is clearance when turning (not to hit the truck cab) still an issue or is that more of a "old school" when they were flat front caps? Old school, as long as you are set up correctly. I have a short bed truck with the AUH ball mounted toward the rear of the truck, closest to the tailgate. I can get about 80 degrees of angle between the truck and trailer before the pucker factor sets in. I have only had to do this a couple of times, but knew my limits after testing the setup before actually needing it. Once you get things setup the way you like them, go to an open area and see what your limitations are. This will help immensely in the event you need to know during a maneuver in public. We travel cross country with our truck and trailer. The AUH is one of the best things we ever did.
I probably have more questions but this is probably a boring thread and if you read this far, thank you. Any other "first time 5th wheel" truck tips are welcome - unless you are hear to say something like "get a F-350 for payload" in which case I warned you this wasn't a thread for you
One item to be aware of is the tires on the 5er of your choice. They will most likely be China Bomb ST tires.
While ST tires can take more sidewall stress, Chinese tires as a whole are not of good quality and must not exceed 65 mph.
See if you can get some LT or Goodyear Edurance ST USA made tires for it.
The ST tires are what allow for those tight backing up into a site stresses, But LT tires will work too. As said always check your suspension components on a regular basis.
BTW under the weight police topic, as long as you don't exceed the axle ratings or tire ratings then you are good. Figure 20% of the trailer GVW as what will be on the truck as payload. Don't take the suggested weight they put on the sticker or use the dry weight figure.
One item to be aware of is the tires on the 5er of your choice. They will most likely be China Bomb ST tires.
While ST tires can take more sidewall stress, Chinese tires as a whole are not of good quality and must not exceed 65 mph.
See if you can get some LT or Goodyear Edurance ST USA made tires for it.
The ST tires are what allow for those tight backing up into a site stresses, But LT tires will work too. As said always check your suspension components on a regular basis.
BTW under the weight police topic, as long as you don't exceed the axle ratings or tire ratings then you are good. Figure 20% of the trailer GVW as what will be on the truck as payload. Don't take the suggested weight they put on the sticker or use the dry weight figure.
My thoughts exactly regarding truck capabilities...its not a sticker, its the actual physical ratings that matter. I have heard that as well about the tire quality. Thank you!
My thoughts exactly regarding truck capabilities...its not a sticker, its the actual physical ratings that matter. I have heard that as well about the tire quality. Thank you!
I was wondering what and whom you meant by payload police. People who are aware of the limiting factors of a truck or people who say what you don't want to hear?
It's not about what a truck can tow, it's about what it can handle in extreme situations. That's why you won't take a family sedan on a race track.
That's why you won't take a family sedan on a race track.
Says who??? What fun would that be???
This is my 2002 Mercury Sable with 255,000 miles on it... Original engine, transmission, etc... As you can see it was hit by a deer going down the road one day. Clearly, the deer hit us in the front side and bounced all the way down the car.
I would take this to the track any day! Heck, there are 2 dirt tracks within 20 miles of me now.
This is my 2002 Mercury Sable with 255,000 miles on it... Original engine, transmission, etc... As you can see it was hit by a deer going down the road one day. Clearly, the deer hit us in the front side and bounced all the way down the car.
I would take this to the track any day! Heck, there are 2 dirt tracks within 20 miles of me now.
Just having fun! Have a great 4th of July!
Wish I had one like that to get a good parking spot at Walmart!!
07-02-2019, 10:04 PM
