Anyone ever thought about doing a nitrous shot on a Bronco that actuates at WOT for that extra passing power? Would there be a down side to doing something like this? Anyone know how long a bottle of NOS would last in a setup like that?

 

Never even crossed my mind, the question here is not how long the bottle will last, but how long your bottom end will last before grenading and whether it is worth it....

The best/more reliable thing to do is to supercharge the engine, there are cheaper ways than supercharging to boost hp and torque for passing situations.

If not slap on a set of cylinder heads, headers, roller cam and rockers along with a nice chip to boot.

 

You think even a mild nitrous setup would be really hard on the motor? According to the manufacturers at least, they say as long as you don't run too much pressure on a decent setup it is not supposed to be hard on it.

 

Wakeborder,

if you are set on using NOS, then by all means....

Using ANY kind of nitrous oxide oxidizing agent in a stock engine will
cause major damage to the piston crown and compression rings....
Once the oil pan is off, it will look like melted candle dropping at the bottom of your pan...like metal oatmeal.

This is why ROSS, JE, CE, SRP and Arias piston manufacturers recommend using forged piston assemblies and ring configurations.

get back to us for tips when you need help installing a new engine.

We are here for you.

Roberto

PS I went with the Ross racing forged alum pistons and total seal piston rings
for my 342 stroker using the SVO R302 engine block, fully ported and coated
GT40X heads, RPM air gap intake and the dry NOS setup. If using this with my setup one can xpect a rebuild at 30-40k miles...

 

I appreciate the advice. That is definitely more headache then I want to mess with. I guess I will stick to the basic stuff for now and hope I can get "enough" power out of that.

 

Aaron, If your current motor is in good shape, why not save up and get some nice AFR or Edelbrock heads? with some 1.6 comp cams roller rockers?

Then get the JBA or bassani headers, and go for the Diablo chip....

a mild cam will also add some good power.

Look at my message below and see what I have done....I can light them up a bit....and I have 32x10.5's!

The throttle response is good and the power REALLY starts to come on in the low 1000's rpm wise...

I can't imagine what this has done for the top end....as I don't like to speed much...

The things you should concentrate on is airflow and matching the fuel flow to it....you have to figure out how the power is to be distributed...this will determine what size of cam you will need, and the extent of mods you will need to do.

let us know what you wanna do.

The reason that NOS will be like taking a plasma cutter to your stock cast pistons is that cast material are loosely arranged metallic molecules that
have a tendency to be brittle, this material expands and contracts with the change in temps....can you imagine how easy it would be to melt this!?!?!

Forged materials have the metal alloys that are stronger due to their physical arrangement in relation to one another...the forging process forms stronger molecular bonds between one metal and another..to form extremely
strong alloys...that can withstand the temps related to NOS use...

let us know if we can be of any help and perform searches on this forum...lots of archives on power building....

 

Thanks for the advice, Capone. I am thinking with 135k on the clock a rebuild may be in order before too long. I am thinking the best thing to do would be to just save up and do the heads, manifolds, cam, etc. when I get the rebuild. I noticed that you had speed density still and was wondering how that was working out for you. I was under the impression that with those kind of mods you would need to convert to mass air. You have to run premium fuel with the diablo chip, correct? Would the diablo chip with the 87 octane program be less effective than that high octane program? Thanks again.

 

What exactly is a frpp short block? What kind of gas mileage do you get with your current setup?

 

As far as I know, the only thing a 87 chip will do is give you firmer shifts (believe I read that in the comp. forum). It is a total waste of money. If you are getting a chip, you really need to be prepared to run 91+.


Rich

 

Ford Racing Performance Parts (FRPP).

 

Is there a website for FRPP?

 

Monkei,

regarding the frpp shortblock....

there is a production 351w with all of the stuff mentioned above...
and it goes for the 1700ish price you indicated at your houston web address....

then there is an frpp shortblock with slightly higher compression...
not much at all though....only it has hypereutectic pistons that are slightly stronger than stock...forged pistons are the best way to go if forced induction is to be used.

I still have speed density and it limits the size of cam you can use.....keep your lobe separation angle above 112 for vacuum signals...and keep duration mild as well.....always measure the piston to valve clearance for valve lift on the cam.

THe truck idles smooth and has NO driveability problems.

I would like to MAF conv for better mileage and less emissions
but need all the info regarding the swap for my 88 5.8.

THe Diablo chip will firm shifts in the 87 octane setting, the 91 octane setting will firm the shifts and advance the timing, thus needing the 91 octane...I also believe that custom tuning the A/F ratios due to the added airflow will also add some ponies.

In my opinion, the chip is a waste of money If that is the only mod you plan on.....it will add that much more if other mods are already done.

You can find FRPP parts at any svo, svt or ford motorsport dealer.

I got the engine cheep because I know someone...