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Hey guys, I have a C6 that is leaking between my 351w (83 f250) and the trans, from the bellhousing. I've got a new torque converter/input seal, but I've also got a new Oring and gasket for the pump. My question is, while I've got the engine out of the truck, can I pull the pump, replace the Oring and seal, then reinstall the pump or will the clutch packs fall out of place? I've asked in the Bullnose forum and people suggested I try here since you guys see more C6's.
I think I'm gonna pass on these gaskets... It's a 4x4 and I'm not certain I want to pull the transfer case out. Lol. I can't be certain it's not just the torque converter seal that is leaking.
Easiest way to remove and reinstall the pump on the C6 is to get yourself 3-4 bolts that fit the same thread as the pump bolts, cut the heads off and grind down smooth. Use them as guide pins when reinstalling the pump to save yourself a lot of headache.
I found that my pump seal was leaking quite badly when I bought my 4x4 F250. Once the motor was out, the pump seal was the first thing I did and it took a whopping 20 minutes to get it all done. Hasn't leaked since.
I tried to do this with the transmission in the truck and could t get the pump to go back in right. The input shaft would bind up.
I've pulled the trans and stood it up on its tailshaft and the pump still doesn't want to go in right. I loosened the clutch band too hoping that would help. Any suggestions?
I was easily able to pull the pump off the truck with trans still in the vehicle - pump slid right back in after rebuild with those "locating pins" I talked about in my last post.
This is mostly due to my inexperience with automatic transmissions... I thought everything was lined back up and was torquing it down when the alignment tabs on the direct drum all broke off...
While installing a shift kit I noticed that the springs for the accumulator valve were all busted up. A piece of this spring made it all the way through the transmission and embedded into the servo piston.
This transmission, other than leaking a very small amount, seemed to be just fine before I pulled the engine out for a replacement... I guess a broken spring in the accumulator circuit can affect how hard/soft a shift takes place as this circuit exists to absorb and soften large spikes and drops in line pressure. Hopefully I understand that right.
For anyone trying to do this with the transmission in the truck still you might have much better luck if you loosen the lock nut on the band adjustment screw. Tighten the adjustment to 120 in/lbs, then pull out the pump, change your gasket and oring, reinstall the pump, and torque it down to 20 ft/lbs. Then back off the adjustment screw 1 1/2 turns and tighten the lock nut. This should keep the direct drum from dropping out and forward as easily, and as a bonus your band will be properly adjusted.
I also found info online to torque the pump bolts to 40 ft/lbs or so. Do not do this as I broke a bolt clean in half with that much torque......
Well if the transmission isn't already pulled, it's time to pull it. With all that metal inside the case, you're best to rebuild everything and start fresh. A small metal shaving such as a spring particle inside your C6 would wreak havoc.
It's already out of the truck. I was able to get it reassembled. I'm just going to put it back in the truck, if it explodes, it explodes. If it doesn't, well.... It was running just fine when I pulled it out. That spring and piston weren't broken by me during the pump removal, that's for sure.
