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I'm looking to put a reman 7.3 in my 2001 F-550. I've read tons of horror stories about reman engines and I wondering.... has anyone had a GOOD experience? Where did you get your reman from?
I'm looking to put a reman 7.3 in my 2001 F-550. I've read tons of horror stories about reman engines and I wondering.... has anyone had a GOOD experience? Where did you get your reman from?
I didn't get a reman per se. I got my engine rebuilt by Swamps Diesel. They did an outstanding job. It cost a pretty penny though. They rebuilt it so my engine can now take almost anything my budget can throw at it (i.e. ceramic coated Mahle pistons, ARP studs, Manley billet rods, etc etc). The reason I sent it in for a rebuild was because this happened: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ed-advice.html
While I was investigating options for repairing/replacing my blown motor, I discovered CNC Fab can get long blocks too. I have no personal experience with their long block but all my other interactions with CNC Fab lead me to believe they should have a quality product.
I'm in the same boat as Gregroy. I acquired a 2003 F250 with 285k miles that is currently not running after a friend acquired it from California (zero rust, I live in MN) and it broke down on his trip back and multiple shops could not fix it, in the end they simply stated the 'engine is tired and should be replaced' with no real rationale as to why...which is hard to swallow along side a $1500+ bill and leaving it dissassembled non-running. With that many miles I'm wondering how much more money I should stick into it or if I should just go for a rebuild to make sure it lasts.
After reading FordTruckNoob's story I'm fearful there is not going to be any good local shops to do the work and what he had done sounds pretty expensive. I'd like to keep my costs under $5k to get this running.
I'm not impressed with the troubleshooting and the throwing parts at it mentality. I pressure test has not even been done...
Mine has 330k....still runs pretty strong. How much are you in to it for?
The problem seems to be, we are talking about mid year 2003 for the last 7.3L......16 years ago. My guess is, first not many techs are up to speed on the 7.3...and do think it's easier to tell the customer. 285k...engine is shot....if you want to go $10k on a reman....we can do that......on a 16 year old, minimum, truck.
Black fuel filter, engine diluted with diesel. They replaced the ICP....and only noted the IPR connector was damaged. Compression test? Nowhere to be found. It won't build HPOP with damaged injector o-rings.
My guess is, yes, it needs some TLC, but it's from from being a junker.
Mine has 330k....still runs pretty strong. How much are you in to it for?
The problem seems to be, we are talking about mid year 2003 for the last 7.3L......16 years ago. My guess is, first not many techs are up to speed on the 7.3...and do think it's easier to tell the customer. 285k...engine is shot....if you want to go $10k on a reman....we can do that......on a 16 year old, minimum, truck.
Black fuel filter, engine diluted with diesel. They replaced the ICP....and only noted the IPR connector was damaged. Compression test? Nowhere to be found. It won't build HPOP with damaged injector o-rings.
My guess is, yes, it needs some TLC, but it's from from being a junker.
I'm in it for about $500 of cash and a trade of some equipment when about a grand. I up for fixing it if possible and an also suspicious the shop did not know what they are doing so it could a somewhat easy it cheap fix. Id like to keep my expenses below $3k to get it running maybe more if getting a rebuild that will last.
South metro, down in Elko. I'm not scared of doing work, I've removed engines in the past and such but never rebuilt one or worked on diesel, this is my first. Not that I wouldn't if I had clear instructions.
I'd get it home. I'd do a buzz test. If that went well, I'd do a compression test. If that went well, I'd likely change the injector o-rings. These engines are hardy.
I'd get it home. I'd do a buzz test. If that went well, I'd do a compression test. If that went well, I'd likely change the injector o-rings. These engines are hardy.
I got it home now, in the barn. Need to reinstall the low pressure oil pressure pump. The oil also looks overfull on dipstick about an inch which is strange if they literally just changed the oil.
What is a buzz test?
I have a compression tester that threads into spark plugs holes... How do you do it on a diesel? In the glow plugs?
I got it home now, in the barn. Need to reinstall the low pressure oil pressure pump. The oil also looks overfull on dipstick about an inch which is strange if they literally just changed the oil.
What is a buzz test?
I have a compression tester that threads into spark plugs holes... How do you do it on a diesel? In the glow plugs?
Sorry, I'm new. I can Google some of this.
Buzz test is where the diagnostic software (a lot of us on here like ForScan) connected to the truck via an OBD II adapter (a lot us on here like this one: ScanTool OBDLink MX Bluetooth: Professional Grade OBD-II Automotive Scan Tool for Windows and Android - DIY Car and Truck Data and Diagnostics
) sends a signal to each injector in turn to make it buzz. The engine is NOT running for this test obviously. Any injector that has a weak/odd sounding buzz is suspect.
Yes, the compression tester connects to the glowplug port. If your compression tester did not come with the necessary 10mm ORB fittting to screw into the glowplug hole, you will need an 8" greasegun flex hose with male 1/4 NPT threads on each end, one of the quick disconnect adapters that came with the compression tester (assuming it has female 1/4 NPT threads) and a 1/4 NPT to 10mm ORB adapter. Attach the quick disconnect to one end of the hose and the ORB adapter to the other. Be sure to use sealing tape on all threaded connections. Depending on the ORB adapter you get, you may have to grind it down a little for it to fit into the pocket where the glow plug sits. Do all your tightening of threaded connections before you grind the wrench flats off obviously.
His gas engine compression gage won't have a high enough operating scale. I like to use a 500psi gage. I have one that you are welcome to use....it's out on loan right now though.
This is the same shop I have down as a decent source for a reman engine. Although, I would take the course of action Dan V has set forth.
The 7.3 can last 500,000 - 750,000 or more miles if taken care of and Murphy doesn't knock on your door. It might have some serious problems, or it might be just fine and can be fixed for far less than what a re-manufactured engine will cost.
His gas engine compression gage won't have a high enough operating scale. I like to use a 500psi gage. I have one that you are welcome to use....it's out on loan right now though.
Oops. You are right. I forgot about that. I too have a diesel compression tester if anyone needs to use one.
