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Old Jun 28, 2019 | 10:19 AM
  #16  
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Awesome thanks guys for guidance. I think I'll try to get some of this done this weekend time permitting. I agree, its probably a good idea to do some diagnositics, find out whats wrong before just replacing the entire thing.

I have a BlueDriver OBD-II (https://www.bluedriver.com/) I bought a while back that has worked well on my gas engines, I'll hook it up and see what it lets me do with this 7.3L.

Thanks for the heads up on the compression tester. I don't mind buying tools that I might use again if they are reasonably priced, so I'll head over to Amazon and see what I can find. Thanks for the offer to loan me one, I'll see what I can find and if I need to rent one from you guys or something I'll reach out.

Again, thanks everyone for the help!
 
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Old Jun 28, 2019 | 10:24 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Dan Beckvall
Thanks for the heads up on the compression tester. I don't mind buying tools that I might use again if they are reasonably priced, so I'll head over to Amazon and see what I can find.
The Harbor Freight one does surprsingly well actually.

Originally Posted by Dan Beckvall
Again, thanks everyone for the help!
That's what we're here for.
 
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Old Jun 28, 2019 | 03:39 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by FordTruckNoob
The Harbor Freight one does surprsingly well actually.
Which Harbor Freight one have you used? I drive by the one in Savage on my way home from work but the reviews on the two diesel ones shown on the website are pretty bad and many state they do not have fittings that work on the 7.3L Power Stroke out of the box.

https://www.harborfreight.com/diesel...-pc-62594.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/diesel...set-63726.html
 
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Old Jun 28, 2019 | 04:28 PM
  #19  
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I have the Pittsburgh 62594. Most of the more reasonably priced kits will not include the correct fitting for our 7.3s. Unless you plan on doing many more diesel compression tests in the future, spending the money on the likes of OTC might be a poor investment . All you need in addition to the kit is a grease gun hose also from HF and a 10mm ORB adapter from a hydraulic shop.

Would you rather just use mine?
 
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Old Jun 28, 2019 | 05:36 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Dan Beckvall
Which Harbor Freight one have you used? I drive by the one in Savage on my way home from work but the reviews on the two diesel ones shown on the website are pretty bad and many state they do not have fittings that work on the 7.3L Power Stroke out of the box.

https://www.harborfreight.com/diesel...-pc-62594.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/diesel...set-63726.html
I had to fab up a work around...the HF kit would not work.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2019 | 09:02 PM
  #21  
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A well known used one would be my go to if it were me and I was trying to save money.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2019 | 10:25 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Dan Beckvall
The oil also looks overfull on dipstick about an inch which is strange if they literally just changed the oil.
The high oil level makes sense if fuel is getting into the oil at a fast rate. Not sure what could cause of that off the top of my head.

Assuming the tech actually measured the LPOP psi and it was only 5, then I'd be tempted to put on a new one, not the old one.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2019 | 12:58 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Dan V
...The problem seems to be, we are talking about mid year 2003 for the last 7.3L......16 years ago. My guess is, first not many techs are up to speed on the 7.3...and do think it's easier to tell the customer. 285k...engine is shot...
This is definitely one of the issues. The techs are younger guys that only know what the computer tells them. Had a 95 7.3 come to work that wouldn't start, had been at a Ford dealer for eight weeks. They threw multiple IDMs, a set of batteries, an injector, and a PCM at it, then checked the wiring. Guy ended up knowing my company's owner, so he brought it to us since they could get nowhere. Our foreman called the shop and talked to the tech to figure out what all they did - guy didn't even know what the HPOP was.

About two hours after it came in I had the parts ordered to get it running. The culprit? Bad UVCH and a stuck open IPR.

The guys here have you on the right tracks - you're in good hands.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2019 | 04:40 PM
  #24  
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Did they give the truck a pillow since its tired and held onto it for almost a month...lol
*Thought the 7.3 was 444cid
*found nothing wrong with lpop
*must've found nothing in the oil but just an overfilled case
*replaced icp sensor do to melting but yet, replaced thee entire harnesss to to being A.M..So, another icp plug

..with their incompetence, id speculate that they got the fuel psi and oil psi reversed..

To them, it everythings good but yet, diagnosed as needing new engine. How'd they come up with that?
 
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Old Jul 2, 2019 | 02:50 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by timmyboy76
..with their incompetence, id speculate that they got the fuel psi and oil psi reversed..

To them, it everythings good but yet, diagnosed as needing new engine. How'd they come up with that?
I just picked the truck up and brought it home for my buddy and then we worked out a deal, I didn't ask any questions. The had left the truck in the lot for me to pick up after hours, which I did, and after a 5 hour ride home on my flatbed I opened the hood and found brackets, bolts, nuts etc all over the engine bay. Who knows how many I lost. When the shop told me it would be ready to pick and put on my trailer I figured they'd have it ready...there was a box of parts in the passenger seat...I just assumed it was everything. I'm not impressed by this shop at all.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2019 | 03:10 PM
  #26  
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I feel like I inadvertently hi-jacked this thread. I had good intentions with questions regarding remans and the like but now its got out of hand.

Should I create a new thread regarding my truck? I do have some updates:
  • Reinstalled the LPOP (that the shop had left removed) and put the belt back on
  • Filled the HPOP reservoir that was bone dry
  • Attempted to start the engine with no luck - after 2-3 seconds the oil pressure gauge does rise to about the middle, eventually the battery went dead (maybe 20-30 seconds of cranking...I assume it was not fully charged), the HPOP was still full,if not fuller than before I started cranking on it.
  • I attempted a buzz test with my OBD-II BlueDriver ($100!) (https://www.bluedriver.com/products/...iver-scan-tool) only to find out it stated "Ford 7.3L Engine is not OBD-II compliant, please unplug" when connecting despite a sticker under the hood that states it is OBD-II compliant. I will being purchasing a cheaper one that others have recommended for the 7.3L.
  • Have not performed a compression check yet as I have not had the time to dig that far into the motor nor do I have all the parts for the gauge - I may have to take FordTruckNoob up on his offer to lend me one.
  • I did look around the engine and found a bunch of wiring / cabling laying around that the shop unplugged
    • There was an EDGE Products EJF21000A Ver 1. Date of MFG: 12/1/2004 module with wire harness mostly unplugged laying on top. This had a ton of connectors that looked like they plug into the OEM wire harness at various connectors.
    • There is some wiring wire a sub-woofer system going into the cab
      • The main thick hot wire was pinched under the battery by someone and NEARLY shorted to the frame BEFORE the big fuse that was inline...I can only imagine what that would have done.
    • There is some other wiring going into the cab that looks like it goes to a remote starter system or something of which I have no key fob for
    • There is a module and different wiring going to the headlights - they appear to be that neon style or something, the module connected has no labeling I suspect it is some type of ballast resistor or something
    • The truck has a CB setup under the seat
    • The truck has an onboard compressor that I can hear running when I turn on the key
    • The truck has 3 horns mounted under the cab...no idea how to control them
    • The truck has an on / off switch mounted on the dash that I have no idea what it does
    • The truck has fog lights that look aftermarket in the bumper - maybe the switch is supposed to control them.
  • All in all I may be in over my head with all these mods that were done and then haphazardly removed by the shop...the truck was running when my buddy dropped it off. Sadly, we don't really have any history from the truck as my buddy had just acquired it from a company he purchased in Cali and was on his drive home with it when everything started falling apart.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2019 | 07:03 PM
  #27  
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You, my friend, have got yourself a project. If you have the patience, "we" can get you through this. But, the definition of patience is, long suffering.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2019 | 01:41 PM
  #28  
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@Dan Beckvall , like Dan V said you have a project on your hands. Take the time to tidy everything up and return everything to factory configuration to the best of your ability. We can get you diagrams if you need them. Eliminating all the non-factory stuff first will make it a lot less confusing when troubleshooting. Feel free to ask for help or loaner tools.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2019 | 07:07 AM
  #29  
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My OEM motor lasted over 700k miles, '99 F350 2wd. Ford factory replacement now has over 700k.
 
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