Has anybody replaced the overly complicated OEM cable clamps with just a standard zinc cable clamp ?? And if so, were there complications ??

With the complex electrical systems of these trucks, I am a bit concerned with doing something like that. But I have a corroded post clamp that doesn’t look too good even after cleaning.

I have a 2017 F350 6.7 with 2 batteries.

 

Ford needs to fix it, I am on first new set of clamps and about to get second battery hold downs. The corrosion is crazy on these things, because the batteries leak acid so you have to clean and apply grease or protectant frequently!

 

I sprayed all my battery terminals with Fluid Film. No corrosion but maybe I just never had that issue.

 

As long as it gets the juice from the batter to the cable, I doubt the truck cares what kind of clamp is on it...

The newer style is nice because they typically have at least one post to attach a +12v ring terminal to to power accessories without having to remove the clamp itself.

 

x2...this works.

 

Been almost 2 years and no issues with corrosion. To be on the safe side I added the corrosion protectors on both batteries. I'm sure any brand will work. This is the drivers side:

 

I would be hesitant to change the original battery clamps to a different style clamp aftermarket until after the warranty period was over. One doesn't want to give Ford an excuse to attempt to deny warranty, even if the attempt is unreasonable and unjustified.

Besides, the OEM clamps have a very nice feature that traditional batter clamps lack... the diagonally opposed sliding blocks used to tighten the clamps around the post. From a mechanical point of view, it is a very clever way to repeatably apply and release clamp contact with the post, without weakening, work hardening, distorting, or otherwise even disturbing that part of the clamp actually responsible for making the contact. For all the ills of non-leaded Ford factory battery clamps made since 2002, this sliding block clamping method I would consider a sound success.

But the material of the clamp itself is thin (eats away easily), and the coatings on the clamp do not appear to be thick enough to keep corrosion at bay.

Have a look at what I encountered on a 2019...













A cocktail bar of remedies... not shown is the brass bristle brush...



After wire brushing the developing corrosion with a brass bristle brush and applying a post cleaner, a layer of red protectant is applied over the eyelet, while a chemically soaked red felt battery washer is layered underneath.

A paper towel positioned under the terminal manages any slop from overspray of the icky sticky red stuff.


At the part of the battery clamp that wraps around the battery post, an amalgam of Silcone Dielectric Grease is mixed with the icky sticky red stuff, and applied to the post/clamp area AFTER the clamp and post are cleaned, clamped, and torqued. Some folks advocate slathering it on before the connection is made, but I have it on good authority (a former Ford automotive electrical engineer) that the best practice is to make the connection clean and dry, and apply coating to the completed connection.




Same thing other side:




The negative ground cable carries the same amount of current as the positive cable, and when the ground cable rots, the electrical system goes just as dead. So the same attention is given to the negative post and clamp, only with just the Silicon Dielectric Grease, and not the red stuff, because my mind can't handle having red on both battery posts.

And here is something else to consider while at it...







Can't win the war without fighting the battles. This is round one. Less than an ounce of goop, for more than a pound of cure. New factory battery leads are expensive. I've never had to buy any replacement battery cables or clamps in 40 years, by getting after these coating these connections early, and monitoring them every so often (such as when changing the oil).

 

Y2K, exactly what I have done since the first warranty repairs, going back to my method from the 6 oh. The dielectric grease in the cable ends and the protectamt are crucial! I’m certain these batteries are part of the problem as the top of the battery is level. Older batteries the caps are in a raised section and clamps are more secure against vibration. This combined with my 477 amps alternator I think is creating increased off gassing. I know they both don’t charge at the same time, but it’s a lot of constant push into those batteries. We shall see if these batteries last 7 years like my first set on the 6 oh.

 

Did you replace with Ford parts or aftermarket ??

I added 1 of the rings this time.

Some interesting points. And thanks for the detailed photos and descriptions.