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Old Jun 25, 2019 | 04:04 PM
  #16  
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And I watched the video closer again. I see you have what 20" wheels or larger with them 35" tires? That's a huge decline in ride quality right there
 
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Old Jun 25, 2019 | 10:46 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by SuperDutyScaler
And I watched the video closer again. I see you have what 20" wheels or larger with them 35" tires? That's a huge decline in ride quality right there
Yeah, I did see that my rim/tire setup isn’t the best. They’re 22s on 35s. I’m thinking on my next set of tires I’m gonna go to 37s to put some more meat on it but it’ll require some trimming. The bags aren’t stretched if you look at them from the wheel well, I specifically called Airlift’s support with a picture in hand to get the spacer I needed and you can see them under the bag (above because of video being upside down). I have the stock shocks from the lift, idk if they’re the ES3000,9000 or whatever the other is they all look alike. I think they’re a gas/hydro shock but don’t quote me because I got them warrantied because it saved money I put to some tires and we all know how expensive tires can get. I think I have roundabout 60 psi in the tires from when I got them, been thinking on letting it down a bit but since I tow my 370BL fifth wheel very regularly I keep them aired up. I understand that the wheel/tire combo is a ride quality killer but it can’t be this bad. It’s horrendous and it’s like I’m not even riding on shocks or springs in the rear
 
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Old Jun 25, 2019 | 10:48 PM
  #18  
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Everyone recommends gas-charged shocks for these trucks as if they're running the Baja 500. You don't need those. If you want a soft ride, get regular hydraulic shocks that aren't gas-charged and it'll ride way better than anything a gas-charged shock can give you. Zone off-road makes some. They're cheap. You'll love them.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2019 | 01:38 AM
  #19  
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I run 37s on mine, but don't air them all the way up unless towing heavy. Do get rid of the stacked blocks if possible and get some better shocks. Alignment pin that aligns them shears = bad news. I don't think you need an entire kit unless you just want to go that route. RBP is a pretty good company from what I have heard, never ran there stuff, but heard good things.

If you want to throw all financial caution to the wind and buy the best kit money can buy, go with a Carli setup. Then you will actually be able to jump dunes like you were in the Baja 500.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2019 | 05:33 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by DieselBeast01
I run 37s on mine, but don't air them all the way up unless towing heavy. Do get rid of the stacked blocks if possible and get some better shocks. Alignment pin that aligns them shears = bad news. I don't think you need an entire kit unless you just want to go that route. RBP is a pretty good company from what I have heard, never ran there stuff, but heard good things.

If you want to throw all financial caution to the wind and buy the best kit money can buy, go with a Carli setup. Then you will actually be able to jump dunes like you were in the Baja 500.
Last time I checked I have 65PSI in the tires. I tow a 14000 pound camper on the fifth wheel hitch so I normally don’t mess with tire pressure if possible. I think I’ll go and buy 2 5100s or Fox’s depends on which one fits my situation better. I’ll only put them on the rear for now due to money but I’ll eventually get around to the fronts if I enjoy the rear and how it rides. If all else fails I’ll just replace the lift all together to fix it for good. If you or anyone can give me good lift choices **WITH** the strike plate because I need it for my airbags.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2019 | 06:32 PM
  #21  
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I run 5100s on mine. It rides pretty good. My rear 4" blocks from readylift have the striker plates on them. They are a full replacement block. Not stacked. Most reputable companies will have the striker plate on their rear blocks. If they were too lazy to incorporate it, I would go with someone else.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2019 | 01:37 PM
  #22  
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Okay, update. I haven’t been able to get 5100s due to my area having way overpriced shocks. $120 a piece for a 5100 and now my left rear is squeaking. It squeaks on small bumps but only at slow speeds. My friend advised it was bushing but I’m not sure and he isn’t either but by looking at them they look in tact and not cracked or broken. Anyone have any ideas or advice? It squeaks pretty often now and it’s annoying, maybe it’s to deal with the poor ride quality as well. Any advice or tips will help.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2019 | 02:35 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Ryan3332
Okay, update. I haven’t been able to get 5100s due to my area having way overpriced shocks. $120 a piece for a 5100 and now my left rear is squeaking. It squeaks on small bumps but only at slow speeds. My friend advised it was bushing but I’m not sure and he isn’t either but by looking at them they look in tact and not cracked or broken. Anyone have any ideas or advice? It squeaks pretty often now and it’s annoying, maybe it’s to deal with the poor ride quality as well. Any advice or tips will help.
It's probably the bushing. Shoot some WD40 on it since you're replacing them soon.

Try a cheap hydraulic shock for the rear. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2019 | 02:44 PM
  #24  
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Metal on metal noise

I have a similar situation with 2011 250 XL 4x4 that is completely stock. Going over bumps it sounds like metal on metal... I put new shocks on it and it didn't Make any difference at all. I even looked underneath to see if cab bushings were gone or something odd like that.
 
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