I'm not all that big on how "electronified" they are becoming... I honestly Rarely turn on the stereo - my music is the sound of the turbo and the soothing clatter under the hood - plus it would distract me from watching 40 gauges on Torque!

And next oil change is to 100% "your" oil!

 

I admit it’s way more truck then I’ll ever likely need, that being said that’s my baby. It’s never let me down...would take awfully deep pockets to get me to think about breaking that trust with her

 

I would sell it before it drains your bank account.

 

OK...so I got the Scan GuageII have it installed and am running up and down the freeway staring at the gauge trying to find out if my truck is about to explode or not lol.

Problem is I now have data that im not sure what it means

First: What would normal freeway EOT and ECT be for me? I know each truck is its own person if you will but I have no idea what im really looking at. Today im running 75mph through some small hills (no downshifting) and ECT is around 202 and EOT maybe got to 214, ill add it was about 13 outside and i had A/C on full bore. I thought I read somewhere the thermo opens at 190 and the fan kicks in at 215 so im good?

Second: My deltas seem to vary a lot. anywhere from 6-12 on the average...for a breif second I hit 13 twice and 14 once...which concerned the crap out of me...is that brief 13 and 14 indicative of impending doom?

Third: This seems counter intuitive to me that climbing the hills my delta would be 6-8, whereas coasting down the backside it would increase to 12 (this is where i seem the 2 13's and 1 14), is that because rpm increase going up the hill increasing the flow and down hill rpms slow decreasing the flow?

Pockets thin right now as I am in the midst of some major work to my house so im trying to slowly budget in all of the above recommendations so I am trying to determine if im close to a critical failure here or if some TLC and maybe a back flush will buy me some time to gather up some cash.

 

He can't delete the EGR because he is in CA. The BPD EGR cooler is CARB approved.
The 2006 will throw codes for insufficient flow flow. So he is stuck with a working cooler.

One big thing you have going for you right now is a happy running truck. If you add some
gauges and take care of the cooling system you should see many more miles.

One low cost thing you might do is get rid of the Ford Gold Coolant and move over to an ELC.

 

I'm guessing you meant to say 113 outside?

Your numbers don't look very far from what I see here in TX when it gets into the hundreds. The fan goes on way before 215, you should be able to hear it. Mine makes a lot of noise.

I start to worry when my deltas get that high, but they do drop pretty fast like yours too. My suggestion: stop being so an-al, at least until it hits 15+.

Your deltas increase going down the backside of a hill because it takes a lot longer for the oil to heat up (and cool down) than the coolant. It's totally normal too.

Like Sean said, it doesn't cost a whole lot to flush the coolant system, and will probably help you sleep better.

 

Getting the G-05 out is a high priority, or at least doing 30k-50k changes of it.

The best check for the coolant/oil differential is 65mph constant speed, flat road as possible, after warmup for about 15 minutes. That information will fingerprint your situation.

Once you do that you'll have the best understanding of your oil coolers condition. From there you can determine if you need a new oil cooler, backflush the oil cooler, chemically flush the oil cooler, or leave it alone.

And after that, if the oil cooler needs to be changed, then the BPD EGR cooler would be a drop in at the same time. If the oil cooler is fine, then you got the decision to make about being pro-active about the EGR cooler.

IMO.

 

Did this today and my delta was an 8. When I’m at 70 the delta was 10/11. 107 outside today. I feel like I’m cooling good right now and plan on doing the flush next weekend and putting the rotella elc stuff back in. Will likely order the sinister kit for the coolant cooler too, I just feel like that’s a really good idea you guys gave me.

Tomorrow im gonna throw the little trailer on it and drive it up some small hills and see how it goes...should be a hot day again and with the monitor I feel more comfortable about pulling it. Anything I should be mindful of? I know the deltas will be weird because of the extra weight and the hills and the 15* separation is null at that point but when should I be considering shutting it down? EOT at some temp?

Also another question for you guys. If the oil cooler plugs and the egr cooler is taking on pressure are there warning signs before rupture or is it one second I’m cruising along and the next second I’m in need of a motor?

 

Unless you are talking about the coolant filter (which is ok), the sinister cooling components are of poor quality and may eventually cause you more problems than you have now. Do more research and ask more questions before deciding on the things that you need to make your engine reliable. The correct coolant, an OEM oil cooler (from a REAL Ford source like Auto Nation White Bear Lake or FICMrepair.com), and an EGR cooler from BulletProofDiesel will provide long term reliability.

 

Follow Marks suggestion on where and what.

You may have a minor amount of restriction in the oil cooler, but I have no experience to relate at those ambient temperatures. Ignore the temperature differential on hills and towing, it only confuses the issue of what the “Delta” was trying to achieve, the amount of flow restriction within the oil cooler. While an absolutely clean oil cooler may have the least change in differential with higher loading, there will be a curve if the flow is restricted.

People often have varying results in the differential with new installs, Some see a 3-4° differential, while others see up to 8° differential. My own take based on the three oil coolers I’ve cut apart is there is some debris that can be released after a typical engine flush event, and gets trapped in the intake ports of the cooler. The typical flow flush doesn’t get that out. From the P-Trap configuration of the intake pathway of the oil cooler to the recesses of the block and head, it’s relatively impossible to have a motor free of all particles. And then we have the radiator....

With a decently working oil cooler, if it was my truck I’d do a fresh water flush, including a water and air backflush from the exit port of the oil cooler. With the lower radiator hose removed if the water pump is not. Then use a better coolant.

The EGR cooler issue is not that it is under pressure, it’s that when the coolant flow is restricted it can overheat, and the seams become compromised. With coolant and exhaust mixing, that is when issues develop. A more robust EGR cooler prevents that issue.

 

"Bulletproof" is highly over-rated, obscenely overpriced and comes with its own set of problems --- I put it in the "schitty" investment category, won't waste mine or customer money there.....................