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Old Jun 15, 2019 | 10:07 PM
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Long crank

I've got a 2004 f250 6.0 that I've been having a long crank problem all of a sudden. The truck always starts eventually. Its runs fine and has all the power it normally does. When it's cold it starts right up. It's when you shut it off when it's hot it long cranks. The ipr % is 23 when the motor is warm at idle, and icp is at 590 ish at idle as well. Ficm voltage is around 47.5 to 48. Just looking for some direction to start looking towards
 
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Old Jun 17, 2019 | 11:12 AM
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Both fuel filters were also changed in the last 50 miles
 
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Old Jun 17, 2019 | 01:25 PM
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Moved to 6.0L PSD engine forum. Good luck with your troubleshooting and repairs.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2019 | 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Fordfan17
I've got a 2004 f250 6.0 that I've been having a long crank problem all of a sudden. The truck always starts eventually. Its runs fine and has all the power it normally does. When it's cold it starts right up. It's when you shut it off when it's hot it long cranks. The ipr % is 23 when the motor is warm at idle, and icp is at 590 ish at idle as well. Ficm voltage is around 47.5 to 48. Just looking for some direction to start looking towards
Initially this sounds like the classic HP oil leak.
Where is the ICP located on your 04? If it's a late 04 you will have the oil rail that are more prone to leaks
 
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Old Jun 18, 2019 | 04:44 PM
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It's on the passenger valve cover, and where do you think the leak could be coming from. The pump was just replaced last fall,
 
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Old Jun 19, 2019 | 12:15 AM
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There are a number of common leaks points. Because it will start, I would think it's one of the smaller leak points. When the engine is cold, the oil is thicker, so it starts right up. When hot, the thinner oil will leak more easily. Typical points of failure are 1) the dummy plug o-rings (my guess), 2) stand pipes (if cash isn't an issue - stand pipes are more expensive - do these while you're replacing the dummy plugs, but the pipes don't fail as often)(make sure you have/get the upgraded parts from Ford), 3) the STC fitting on the HPOP, there's an upgraded part, 4) dang, having a brain fart forgetting the name, but the o-rings under the oil rails, and 5) injectors.

You may also have an IPR valve issue, pull it and see if the screen is intact. If not, and anyway while it's out, check the valve function and that it's not stuck open; clean it out. (search here for instructions

There's prolly more - I'm no expert - but those are common are relatively easy/inexpensive to fix. Also, some of the others typically don't allow it to start though.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2019 | 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by IHateCommieCars
There are a number of common leaks points. Because it will start, I would think it's one of the smaller leak points. When the engine is cold, the oil is thicker, so it starts right up. When hot, the thinner oil will leak more easily. Typical points of failure are 1) the dummy plug o-rings (my guess), 2) stand pipes (if cash isn't an issue - stand pipes are more expensive - do these while you're replacing the dummy plugs, but the pipes don't fail as often)(make sure you have/get the upgraded parts from Ford), 3) the STC fitting on the HPOP, there's an upgraded part, 4) dang, having a brain fart forgetting the name, but the o-rings under the oil rails, and 5) injectors.

You may also have an IPR valve issue, pull it and see if the screen is intact. If not, and anyway while it's out, check the valve function and that it's not stuck open; clean it out. (search here for instructions

There's prolly more - I'm no expert - but those are common are relatively easy/inexpensive to fix. Also, some of the others typically don't allow it to start though.

I do know that the owner before me, has done the stand pipes and dummy plugs, now I dont not know what the rate of them going bad are. I'll guess I'll pull the ipr and check as it's not the worst to get it at. Thanks for the response
 
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Old Jun 19, 2019 | 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Fordfan17
I do know that the owner before me, has done the stand pipes and dummy plugs, now I dont not know what the rate of them going bad are. I'll guess I'll pull the ipr and check as it's not the worst to get it at. Thanks for the response
Your engine is a cross over of sorts, with newer wavy style oil rails and older style pump.
You will not have an STC fitting. That said it's still possible the pump is getting weak, they are more prone to fail than the 05 and up style pump.

Once it's warmed up and hot, what are your IPR and ICP %'s whilst cranking?
Those hot idle #'s are perfect, but really need to know what it's taking to get it going with hot, thin oil.

Post that and will go from there before you pull the IPR, since it's a bit more work sitting under the turbo to remove.

I'm also curious what you are calling a "long crank" hot, how many seconds?
 
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Old Jun 19, 2019 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by navistarnut
Your engine is a cross over of sorts, with newer wavy style oil rails and older style pump.
You will not have an STC fitting. That said it's still possible the pump is getting weak, they are more prone to fail than the 05 and up style pump.

Once it's warmed up and hot, what are your IPR and ICP %'s whilst cranking?
Those hot idle #'s are perfect, but really need to know what it's taking to get it going with hot, thin oil.

Post that and will go from there before you pull the IPR, since it's a bit more work sitting under the turbo to remove.

I'm also curious what you are calling a "long crank" hot, how many seconds?
I'll warm it up tonight, and check and see what the numbers are while cranking, i believe its 5 to 10 seconds, where it started within 2 seconds. The other thing I have noticed is the ficim voltage while cold is like 43, as the truck warms up the ficim voltage goes up to the desired 48. Dont know if this is a sign of the ficim failing.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2019 | 12:48 PM
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Sounds like a failing FICM to me. FICMrepiar.com is HIGHLY recommended.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2019 | 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by bismic
Sounds like a failing FICM to me. FICMrepiar.com is HIGHLY recommended.
Yep. If you're a cheap a$$ like me, swap in a known good one to confirm. Easy job. Otherwise, FICMrepair is everyone's recommendation here. Great sponsor.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2019 | 05:39 PM
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Where are you located? Maybe someone here has a good FICM you can test. I'm in Houston.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2019 | 05:40 PM
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FYI, don't do a lot of cranking with the FICM relay in place or you can really burn it up. Shorter cranks, cool for half a minute, crank again.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2019 | 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by IHateCommieCars
Where are you located? Maybe someone here has a good FICM you can test. I'm in Houston.
I'm located in wisconsin, and I'll have to see if I can find one
 
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Old Jun 20, 2019 | 06:20 PM
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My ipr% when cranking was 85% when it started and icp was 580 when it started
 
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