I have a stock pitman and track bracket taking up space in my shop. Make an offer and its yours.

 

My truck and my boy!

Definitely a few more inches of clearance, I am sure there will be no rub at full left turns anymore.
Hey there “in the dirt”, thanks for the offer, but based on what pirate mentioned about bump steer above, I was able to purchase this drop track bar bracket:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DROP-TRACK-...5-62aedd983f2b

I got it on Wednesday and am at work and have not been able to install yet. What’s odd is it said “performance parts warehouse” as the seller and the picture showed stamped with performance parts warehouse, but it arrived in a Pro Comp Box, with Pro comp installation instructions, leads me to believe it’s a pro comp bracket designed specifically for my application, front 6in lift pro comp leaf spring. Good find, good quality part. I also opted for the PMF 5160 remote reservoir bilstein shocks which should be arriving today....

Here is a pic of the leafs installed w/o track bar, and shocks, obviously have not been able to drive it yet.

 

Shock at rest after install


Pro comp drop trac bracket, drop pitman, adj trac

Lines at 33 1/2 extension
SO I installed the adj. trac bar/drop bracket from pro comp and now no interference from drop pitman, and took it for a drive w/o shocks in place out of curiosity, rode like a Cadillac although a little bouncy (obviously).

Came back and started install of the new bilstein 5165, straight forward as any shock just attaching the remote Rez to shock body. Learned from my last shock install instead of trying to compress shock to meet the top connecting bolt, I jacked the truck up to the banded shock, way easier. Then in the instructions it stated you need to fully cycle the shock to full extension which I proceeded to do and got the shock extended to a center of fender to center of hub to just over 33in before I did not want to go further due to the brake lines not having more reach. I don’t plan on crawling with my Excursion so don’t think I need more articulation, but it’s a consideration going forward.

I believe the reason for needing to fully cycle the shock is to simply check for interference with other components, any other reason to need to do that?

Took the rig for a ride with the all the new components ( moog prob solver tie rod ends, drag link, pro comp 6in leafs 22410, sway bar extension, adj trac bar, drop pit, rear 2in tapered loft block) and the truck rides way better than it did with old worn out shocks/ bushings and all the other worn out components. Softer and less abrasive over bumps, I like the new feel of it.
The nasty vibration I was experiencing from 55^ and up is gone. I can’t pinpoint what was causing vibration as I replace all these parts at the same time but I want to say the worn out track bar bushings as they were pretty bad, but I think it was a combination of all the worn out parts.

I also had the truck aligned, granted before I put the shocks on and they got it to the sweetest spot they could. Adding shocks after alignment should be ok correct?

I did notice however aside from the nice ride, over small bumps ( like constant cracks in the rode) I can feel it in the steering wheel more, it does not cause any deflection or cause the truck to bump around on the road as the same little bump if I let go of the steering wheel it track straight and stays on the road just find, you can just “feel” it in the steering wheel more...?

Also, as I am driving straight there is still about. 1 to 1 1/2 inch of steering wheel movement before it actually engages to actually steer, probably a worn out steering box, next on list of things to do? No wander just the play in steering wheel.

Overall happy with the new aspects of the upgrades, still a few things to do, then probably a few more. Only have 20 miles on it since install and we will see how things settle, but happy mostly to have that horrible vibration gone and new parts checked off the list. Thanks Pirate for the feedback.

 

As an aside, here are the before and after alignment specs:

 

an inch "play" in the steering gear is not actually from worn out parts it is the amount of rotation from the torsion spring opening the valve that adjust the amount of power steering assist the box delivers.


biggest handeling diffrence you are likely feeling is you went from toe out ( causing wander and darting ) to a good setting on Toe In, that and they removed some caster.

and for the love of your children FIX your brake Lines. a turn at speed can cause the wheel to acheive full droop and over extend and bust a brake line. is your familys saftey not worth A hundred bucks ?

 

Copy that, yeah 2 new front brake lines would assure I have enough excess at full drop. However when I jacked up the truck to full extension of the shock, I still have 3-4 inches of lateral movement of the brake lines. The suspension should not articulate past full drop of the shock correct? The front brake lines were installed when the 4in lift was, might not be enough for 2 more inches in your humble opinion.

Interesting fact on the steering wheel “play”, so essentially nothing can be done to eliminate that? It’s not detrimental just more noticeable when I was testing out new ride characteristics, I though most of the slop would be eliminated.

 

Try tightening up your steering box. Just do a little at a time or you'll risk there not being enough play to return to center if you let go of the wheel. Made a big difference on my Ex and my Samurai in how much "slop" was felt in the wheel.