Started the dream!
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,011
Likes: 232
I am afraid that would increase the likely hood of braking things faster than I could afford to fix them. Hence the idea of staying with 33” vs the 35” I really want. Add in that I am getting older now and the 33” sound good to me as far as crawling in and out of the truck. With the lift to compensate the 35” tires thats getting pretty tall. Always wanted the 35” when I was young and now that it I am able to do it I am thinking that part of life is past me. Plus it might not fit in the garage with a lift and 35” tires. As I blab on and on you can see I have not made up my mind, lol. The smart/cheaper choice is 33”.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,572
Likes: 37
From: Northern Virginia.
I had 35 inch tires with a 3 inch body and a 4 inch lift. it was not easy to get in and out especially with the wife. ( old truck)
now I have stock height 78 short bed with 31x10.5. much better BUT I wish they were 12.5 wide it would look much better.
im thinking of going 33x12.5 for sure next.
now I have stock height 78 short bed with 31x10.5. much better BUT I wish they were 12.5 wide it would look much better.
im thinking of going 33x12.5 for sure next.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 2,219
Likes: 325
From: Central Florida
Are you getting some sort of error message or is this what they call a "silent failure"?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 1,276
Likes: 12
From: KY
I upload pictures going to go advance and clicking on paper clip instead of the square picture landscape beside it , they both appear to do the same thing but the paper clip has never failed to load a picture for me , were the square landscape picture I have had issues , of course maybe its just me
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Cross-Country
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 85
Likes: 1
I'd blast the rust and put on a coat of a good quality undercoating, if it was me. Protect this awesome build, so it will last! Also, noticed the wheelwell rust of the upper end. There are cutouts you can buy that will give you a nice finish when you're done installing them. The shape of the cutouts are exact, at least when I did mine. Alos, when you do put these in, Drill a couple of drain holes in them on the wheelwell side. This will keep it from happening again. Really NICE build!
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,011
Likes: 232
I am using the green bed. It off of a 1974 2wd truck. It is rust free! Have had this bed for about 16-17 years in storage. The yellow one is the original that has seen better days. I am in the middle of moving three cross members and the rear mounting pieces to the green bed from the yellow. About 300 spot welds drilled out between the two beds. Have 2 of the 8 bed bolt holes relocated. The rear has them marked already after you remove the mounting brackets. All others will need to be re drilled. One of the cross members has to be moved back from where the 2wd cross member set to line up with the highboy bed mounting holes. I removed the front cross member then skipped one crossmember. Removed the next two then skipped one and removed the rear mounting brackets. Also had to remove the bracket on the cross member one back from the rear. The cross member it’s self is in the right location but the highboy bed has a longer drop down piece to hit the frame. All in all only one cross member is left untouched. It is the cross member that is second from the front. All this so when you look under the bed it looks original, no spacers or cut rear mount. There are many ways to skin a cat and this is just the way I choose to do it.
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