Z-Bar treating. Consensus?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2018
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From: Coos Bay
Z-Bar treating. Consensus?
There’s an old hot rod shop near me that caters to new and old. Their specialty is focused on exhaust and performance add ons for the new generation. On my last 70s series rig, i had the exhaust done there. During my visit, they mentioned that they still have the z-Bar that was used in the aftermarket in the 80s and 90s.
For those unfamiliar, this is a treatment sprayed inside the cab pillars and other hidden, unpainted areas.
The Q is, are, is anyone familiar with this stuff? I understand the benefits but, is there a better product or way to protect these areas?
Any and all thoughts are appreciated.
Russ
For those unfamiliar, this is a treatment sprayed inside the cab pillars and other hidden, unpainted areas.
The Q is, are, is anyone familiar with this stuff? I understand the benefits but, is there a better product or way to protect these areas?
Any and all thoughts are appreciated.
Russ
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Only experience with Z-Bar (Ziebart) is on my 99 Dodge Ext Cab Diesel. The cab doors and the ext cab portion "jump doors", have the plastic plugs showing they have both had a Ziebart treatment. I seem to remember the Z on the plug head. Who knows when it was done (before 03 when I got the truck with only 60,000 on it )....Anyway a few years ago I noticed the bottom the doors have rusted enough that the outer door skin has separated from the bottom part of the door. Same for the jump doors. So I would say it did not work very well IMO.
I would not have it done to any of my 40+ year old trucks. I would look into some Eastwood products and just do it yourself. You would need to neutralize the rust in the area (even if just surface), before you coat it with anything. Like using a "rust converter" or "rust to metal" spray. Eastwood web page and U tube has tons on info on their products. https://www.eastwood.com/paints/rust-solutions.html
You can pull the door panels and get in there real good. And do not forget to leave the 3 or 4 drain slits at the bottom of the doors open. You can access the B pillar from the seat belt reel hole.
I would not have it done to any of my 40+ year old trucks. I would look into some Eastwood products and just do it yourself. You would need to neutralize the rust in the area (even if just surface), before you coat it with anything. Like using a "rust converter" or "rust to metal" spray. Eastwood web page and U tube has tons on info on their products. https://www.eastwood.com/paints/rust-solutions.html
You can pull the door panels and get in there real good. And do not forget to leave the 3 or 4 drain slits at the bottom of the doors open. You can access the B pillar from the seat belt reel hole.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2007
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My 79 scab was Ziebarted at some point, I'm guessing near new cause the paint is almost perfect under it where it's thick and I've scraped it off. Everything under the floors, inside the rockers and inside the cab walls still looks really nice. Even though there is some small spots of rot, but it's mostly from external paint damage, I think it helped save the truck. I would think you'd want to do some type of rust neutralizing on an older vehicle before z baring, otherwise you'd just be trapping existing rust under it. And if the shop doesn't know what they're doing and plug up the factory drain holes with the undercoat, it'll be worse than if you didn't do it.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2014
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From: Central Florida
With body panels of aluminum I suppose that rust will eventually become something that few newer Ford truck owners worry about. However, I have seen aluminum deteriorate in other ways so it may be that there will always be something to worry about.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2018
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From: Coos Bay
So, this stuff is more of a thick film and not a highly viscous liquid? Good to know. Is there a wand that injects rust neutralizer into the crevices? Im thinking it would operate similar to an at-home sandblaster. I know that i am 40 years too late to do preventative care but, should be able to neutralize and seal these areas from damage.
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