killing door rust
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
From: Olathe, Kansas
killing door rust
Hello all. -
My doors on my '56 are in pretty good shape for being over 50 years old. They are straight but have a few small holes and a lot of pits near the bottom. I have a guy that is going to do some metal work on them and replace the lower skins for me if needed. My question is this: In regard to the inner part of the doors, should I have the doors blasted or would a treatment such as POR 15, Rust Bullet, Eastwood Rust Encapsulator, etc do the trick? The guy doing the metal work is going to DA and prime the doors when he works on them. The really rough metal will be fixed or replaced. But there is a lot of solid-but-rusty metal that will need to be taken care of. --Thanks in advance.
My doors on my '56 are in pretty good shape for being over 50 years old. They are straight but have a few small holes and a lot of pits near the bottom. I have a guy that is going to do some metal work on them and replace the lower skins for me if needed. My question is this: In regard to the inner part of the doors, should I have the doors blasted or would a treatment such as POR 15, Rust Bullet, Eastwood Rust Encapsulator, etc do the trick? The guy doing the metal work is going to DA and prime the doors when he works on them. The really rough metal will be fixed or replaced. But there is a lot of solid-but-rusty metal that will need to be taken care of. --Thanks in advance.
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,757
Likes: 138
From: Alberta Canada
Door rust
I had my doors dipped using reverse electroysis method, removes all hidden rust. I will spray interiors with rust convertor then epoxy primer finally line with rock chip preventative solution.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,190
Likes: 2
From: Riverside, So Cal
I reskinned my 56's doors also. The exterior was media blasted before I did the skin work, but my driver door was so rusted that I needed to replace the lower part of the door inner pan also. I used Zero Rust to handle the door interiors on both doors and a good load of brushable seam sealer along the bottom skin seam where the water wants to collect. I also added drain holes. Make sure the drain holes are at least 5/16" dia (3/8" is better).
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=25135
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=25135
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 863
Likes: 2
From: Grain Valley Mo.
I wanted a decent looking truck that runs, in about a year, at a reasonable cost. In the past I went for perfection, and it takes way to much time and money, for me. So, this is what I did.........
I removed all the loose rust that I could, welded up a few pin holes,then flooded the inside of the doors with POR-15, until it ran out of the drain holes in the bottom of the door. If it works as advertised, it should last a long time....Rod
I removed all the loose rust that I could, welded up a few pin holes,then flooded the inside of the doors with POR-15, until it ran out of the drain holes in the bottom of the door. If it works as advertised, it should last a long time....Rod
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
From: Olathe, Kansas
Well, the body man is going to replace both inner and outer door bottoms so I guess I will clean them out and treat all of the original metal with POR 15. Next thing will be sending the cab to be beadblasted and see what comes back.
