When I decided to head down the path with this truck, I knew I had surface rust to deal with... quite a bit of it, but I saw nothing bubbling under paint, and no holes.

The truck was a gift, has been in my family since the early 70's, and I've a solid attachment to it.... so I didn't inspect it too closely. Now that I'm really into it, I've found that the dirt/oxidation on the truck managed to obscure that there is already some rust bubbling up from under the paint on the rear bottom cab corner on the drivers side. shocking! I expect I'll find more.

So that was a long setup. My question is, how drastically do I need to change my plan now that I've found the rust is worse than I thought...AT LEAST in one place?

I plan to keep the truck in my garage, and for the most part only drive it, when the sun is out (there are no windows in the doors yet). I just want to get the truck safe (new tires, brakes, etc), and on the road... so that I can drive it and enjoy it, while I work out the details of my goals/plan.

But I don't want the let the problem get worse. Are there steps I can take to make sure that she doesn't continue to disintegrate, while still allowing me to take her out for weekend drives, etc, or do I need to just start planning on pulling her all apart now?

If so, what might those recommendations be?


For those interested, there is a pic below, and I'll tell you a little about the truck...

It started life as a service truck for Pacific Telephone in CA. My Dad bought it in 1973 from the second owner. It looks like Pacific Telephone, or that second owner, applied a questionable paint job on the doors and fenders to cover the company logos and black paint respectively... I can remember both starting to shine through the paints while we were still in the 70's.

Thanks again for all the help. This group is great.

 

Personally I would get the truck going first, if you are not planning paint and bodywork right away. It took 60 years to rust that little bit, should be okay for a while. Maybe fish around down in the cab corner to make sure there isn't a rag or some trash trapping moisture...

 

I would say it all depends on your level of expertise on body repair and/or your wallet. You should expect to find at least a few more spots that are hidden from view but as long as you have inspected the viewable parts of the vehicle and they are relatively clean you should be OK. If finding additional spots would be a "deal breaker" as far as you are concerned, then I would advise you to button her back up and put her up for sale. The truck will be worth more back together and running than it will if you take it apart and then give up. A running/drivable truck is always worth more than a pile of parts, at least as far as these old trucks are concerned.

 

Cab corners on a slant cab are not a difficult repair considering there are patch panels available. If you will be keeping it inside and not driving it much in inclement weather, any present rust will not appreciably grow as Scott says. Follow his advice to clean out any dirt and debris in the cab corners and inside the door bottoms, including inside the triangular opening at the bottom front of the cab accessible from inside the front fenders. (Does the slant cabs have the screwed on cover plate over that opening like the 56?)
To reduce further rusting while you work on the other parts of the truck: After cleaning out the dirt and debris by light scraping and vacuuming followed by a soap and hot water wash and rinse (hot water will dry quickly and not do any harm except flushing out any remaining dirt) Get a spray can of rust reformer http://www.rustoleum.com/product-cat...rust-reformer/ (look near the bottom of the Rustoleum rattle can rack at your favorite big box DIY store, it's about 20.00. Make sure it says it's rust reformer, not primer or paint.) or order online from Eastwood. Spray a light but full coverage coat right over the rust and into seams, it should go on clear and immediately turn the rust black. The converter will change any rust to an inert substance and stop it from growing. Note it is a chemical reaction, not a coating, it will not have any affect on clean unrusted metal or painted surfaces, only where rust is present. More is not better!
Note don't be tempted to apply any of the "quick fix" patches like fiberglass, bondo, metal tape, spray can patch, etc. They won't hold and will just make proper repair much more difficult later.
Meanwhile read up on my MIG welding tutorial: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-practice.html and start saving up for a MIG welder to do the body work down the line.

 

That truck looks pretty good to me and the rest of us in the rust belt! Good luck with it and keep us posted.

 

Based on your description and your pictures, I don't think you've got too much to be concerned about. Small rust repair like cab corners is relatively easy. And it doesn't sound like it's bad enough to hold up your other progress. Like Scott said, it took this long to get as bad as it is, it's not going to get any worse in the near term. Keep up with your progress and don't lose any sleep over it.

 

Thanks to all.....I will move on as originally planned

 

I had concerns about a little rust repair too, you should be okay.

 

That's the definition of "jacking up the radiator cap and putting a new truck under it"! That's real dedication (or masochism!?!?).

 

LOL , after I finished the bottom I had to tackle the top as well. I still have a section around the windshield frame to tackle yet.

 

Then you will have built a completely new cab?

 

Pretty much, funny thing is this was a F 600 cab that I thought would have a lot less rust seeing it sits so much higher than the smaller models but this cab obviously came to the original owner in red primer, it looks like the exterior was painted with a can purchased at the local hardware store. I took this picture for the funny pages.

 

Ya know they all don't have to be frame off restorations. It's no secret that I am not a very talented mechanic, body and fender man, or painter, infact when I found this site I knew nothing, but wanted to not only drive but fix up my truck at the same time. My process was 1st, had a pro check out the brakes and do the king pins, then I did one small job at a time, a fender ,the wipers, the shifter etc, etc. Most of the time I drove it just the way it was, granted Im in a smaller town, and didn't get stopped by local Patrolmen. Ill put a pic of how it looked for a few years while I was learning and woking on it at the same time, followed by one of how it sits today. Bottom line is with the help of the FTE members, and a lot of surfing the internet, I was able to eventually to do the body work, paint it, rebuild the transmission, and Im still working on it while I enjoy driving it. So don't get discouraged you can do most or all of what your truck requires yourself. Your truck has a lot of character, if it was mine I would just do the things to make it safe and reliable, then take it from there. Some of the most talented people on this site (NOT ME) have already given you a lot of good insight, so I hope you don't give up on your project, I know you wont be disappointed going forward. Best of luck.

 

Jimmy, don't ever sell yourself short. You my friend have plenty of talent and lots to share and you are driving a very good example of craftmanship. You are one heck of a nice guy also.

 

When I bought my truck, I had no idea what shape it was in. There wasn't any 'obvious' rust and it was "complete" in that all the badges were intact, etc. (I wasn't aware at the time how very little was missing. I have lost more parts in my 8 year restore than were missing when I got it...)
If you look at my pictures, the biggest rust issue I uncovered was the rear passenger cab corner, but I was able to fix it myself. I had NO body work experience and had never welded anything before.
Your truck "LOOKS" much better than mine did. YOU CAN DO IT...
I think your plan sounds good.... get it running, make it safe, and drive it....