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Track bar replacement

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Old Jun 1, 2019 | 06:54 PM
  #1  
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Track bar replacement

So it is that time again.... started tracking down the little quirks that bug me and I find that my 6yr old track bar needs new bushings. I replaced just the bushings last time with poly but... I recall that something was off but I still made it work.
Well this time I want plug n play.
so. Recommendations?
i have found the Moogs on RockAuto for about $60. Bar and bushings. Could I expect those those to work well and last or.....
And yes I want to replace the whole thing. Don’t feel like screwing with pressing bushings in and out....even tho I have a shop press...I just like plug n play.

Thanks all!!
 
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Old Jun 4, 2019 | 11:09 AM
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I can't remember which ones I replaced mine with. I'm pretty sure it was Daystar. They were the 2 piece bushings so I didn't have to press them in.

It took a bit of time to cut out the vulcanized bushings out and I wasn't interested in pressing new ones in just as you are.

Trying to get the two pieces lubed, installed, the bolt tube through both pieces, and hold all that together (the track bar eye is tapered inside) was a PITA. Let me say that again...it S-U-C-K-E-D!!!

I started with the lower one and that was bad enough but the upper one was ridiculous. I was working alone which exacerbated the problem. Trying to tighten my ratchet straps and hold the bar and keep the bushing pieces in place as it went into the bracket would be much easier with an extra set of hands, but would still be difficult since you are trying to keep the bushing pieces in bar while you do this. You're also trying to squeeze things together so that it fits into the bracket. I ended up having to shave some of the ends of the bushing pieces to be able to get the track bar back into the brackets. I trimmed the inside piece down so it would fit into the taper better.

If I had to do it over again I would go with the one piece Energy Suspension bushings. You'd have to press them in but you wouldn't have to fight to keep the bushing together when installing.

If you do not want to deal with the original track bar the Moog should be fine for a replacement. If the eyes on the Moog bar are tapered I recommend the Energy Suspension kit and press them in, especially if you have a shop press. I don't think it would be too difficult to press in a polyurethane bushing into a new, clean bar. I know it would have saved me a lot of frustration (and bushing surgery) if I would have gone that route.

Just my .02
 
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Old Jun 4, 2019 | 08:12 PM
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Unfortunately, I spent more time buying and returning breaker bars that were bending like spaghetti replacing mine. Once the 30 plus year old tools in 3/4 drive were acquired it was quick work. Ended up running a long extension to jack stand in front of the truck and pressed down with my foot to losen the bolts. Reinstall with the top bolt first and you’ll have more room to realign the lower. Below is the tool I used to get the bolt in.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2019 | 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by RigCity
Unfortunately, I spent more time buying and returning breaker bars that were bending like spaghetti replacing mine. Once the 30 plus year old tools in 3/4 drive were acquired it was quick work. Ended up running a long extension to jack stand in front of the truck and pressed down with my foot to losen the bolts. Reinstall with the top bolt first and you’ll have more room to realign the lower. Below is the tool I used to get the bolt in.
Dayum! I have always just needed my 1/2 drive ratchet and a wrench. What is the torque on these supposed to be?
 
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Old Jun 5, 2019 | 10:23 AM
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~400 ft-lbs (396 ft-lbs IIRC)

This is one of the few things I don't verify the torque on. I get the bolt started in the nut and the run the pneumatic impact wrench until the bolt stops moving.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2019 | 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by brian42
~400 ft-lbs (396 ft-lbs IIRC)

This is one of the few things I don't verify the torque on. I get the bolt started in the nut and the run the pneumatic impact wrench until the bolt stops moving.
Well holy crap....sounds like I better get my Wheaties on when I tighten these down.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2019 | 07:27 PM
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Ok. Need recommendations here.
so I changed my mine d and ordered just the bushings and wouldn’t ya know it....wrong ones.
I need the early 99 bushings with the 15.5mm eyelets. Everything I find is the 21mm.
It seems the only way I can get the 15.5 bushings is if I buy the whole damn track bar.
Who sells the 15.5 bushings? Even on The ES site they don’t show them. WTH!!!!
 
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Old Jun 10, 2019 | 08:08 PM
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I used an adjustable bar. Two main benefits: Easy to install and you set it for the perfect length for your truck. Done.

As to the torque, I recommend a 3/4" breaker bar and enough length to really lean on it. Nothing 1/2" is sufficient.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2019 | 11:45 AM
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OK so why is it that the early 99 parts are disappearing?
I would like to get new track bar bolts...Nope...nada. I am about to just go to the stealership for these but really hate paying $50 for a set of nuts n bolts.
Anyone find these elsewhere before?

If this keeps up I may have to go with the upgrade kit to the late 99 track bar. sheesh.
 
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