Energy Suspension Bushing Update
Thread Starter
|
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,953
Likes: 120
From: Mcdonough, GA
Energy Suspension Bushing Update
First let me state I've never done suspension work, I'm just a DIY'r trying some new stuff so if I say something stupid or wrong and you know better jump in correct me.
When I got my truck with nearly 300k miles many of the bushings were worn out so I bought a master bushing kit.
4.18124 Energy Suspension Hyperflex Master Kit - F250 Super Duty - 4WD
I replaced the front sway bar bushings right away to get rid of the constant clunk clunk under the floor boards. Later when I had the fuel tank out and the rear sway bar was easy to get to I replaced those.
Couple of days ago I decided to do the track bar. Kit came with 2 sets of bushings for the track bar, I guess because the year models this kit fits had two different track bars, welded ends and a cast ends. MIne was a cast end bar. The old bushings were so shot the centers pressed right out but left the outer sleeves in the bar. The sleeves were so thin I had to fold them in to get enough of a bite on them to be able to press them out. The picture is after I folded the edges of the sleeve to be able to press them out. Before it was only about a 1/32nd wide lip tight against the bar. I'm not using a commercial press with all the possible adapters available, just scap meatl pieces and sockets and such.
When I went to put in the bushings per the instructions there was just no way to get them in. The ID of the ends of the track bar were just to small to allow the outer flange of the poly bushing to go in. I called Energy suspension to see if the had any recommendations and got a real person almost right away. He had me look at the bar for a Ford logo then part numbers. No Ford logo. We determined that what I had was a Mooge aftermarket bar and the rod ends were 1/16 ID smaller than the Ford. I decided to shave part of the outer diameter of one end of the bushing enough to get it to press into the bar. The guy at ES said go ahead and if it didn't work he's send me new ones for a different bar if I decided to go that way. They don't make one to fit the Mooge. I was able to grease them up and with my neighbors help press them in the bar. Then when I went to put the inner sleeves inside the bushings I had to press them in too because the bushings had a pretty good preload on them from being pressed into a hole a 1/16 smaller than they were designed for.
End of the story is I got them to work.
All I have left is the rear spring bushings. I recently put new front springs on so those are fine for now.
My neighbor has a little 12 ton bottle press and it was invaluble. Might have been able to do the sway bars without it but the track bar would have been a challange.
When I first got this truck it was like driving an old school bus down the road, sawing the wheel from 10 to 2 just to keep it on the road. With new bushings, tie rod ends and steering linkage, ball joints, wheel bearings, and a little tightening of the steering gear box it finally tracks straight as an arrow and is a lot more fun to drive.
And yeah I'm sorry I ddin't take more pictures. i will do better in the future. I just get so caught up in the project I forget until I'm done then think you idiot you forgot again.
Energy suspension products gets a thumbs up for completeness of parts in the kit, instructions, and customer service.
If anyone has a welded end track bar and wants free replacement bushings PM me. The set came with them and I won't use them.
When I got my truck with nearly 300k miles many of the bushings were worn out so I bought a master bushing kit.
4.18124 Energy Suspension Hyperflex Master Kit - F250 Super Duty - 4WD
I replaced the front sway bar bushings right away to get rid of the constant clunk clunk under the floor boards. Later when I had the fuel tank out and the rear sway bar was easy to get to I replaced those.
Couple of days ago I decided to do the track bar. Kit came with 2 sets of bushings for the track bar, I guess because the year models this kit fits had two different track bars, welded ends and a cast ends. MIne was a cast end bar. The old bushings were so shot the centers pressed right out but left the outer sleeves in the bar. The sleeves were so thin I had to fold them in to get enough of a bite on them to be able to press them out. The picture is after I folded the edges of the sleeve to be able to press them out. Before it was only about a 1/32nd wide lip tight against the bar. I'm not using a commercial press with all the possible adapters available, just scap meatl pieces and sockets and such.
When I went to put in the bushings per the instructions there was just no way to get them in. The ID of the ends of the track bar were just to small to allow the outer flange of the poly bushing to go in. I called Energy suspension to see if the had any recommendations and got a real person almost right away. He had me look at the bar for a Ford logo then part numbers. No Ford logo. We determined that what I had was a Mooge aftermarket bar and the rod ends were 1/16 ID smaller than the Ford. I decided to shave part of the outer diameter of one end of the bushing enough to get it to press into the bar. The guy at ES said go ahead and if it didn't work he's send me new ones for a different bar if I decided to go that way. They don't make one to fit the Mooge. I was able to grease them up and with my neighbors help press them in the bar. Then when I went to put the inner sleeves inside the bushings I had to press them in too because the bushings had a pretty good preload on them from being pressed into a hole a 1/16 smaller than they were designed for.
End of the story is I got them to work.
All I have left is the rear spring bushings. I recently put new front springs on so those are fine for now.
My neighbor has a little 12 ton bottle press and it was invaluble. Might have been able to do the sway bars without it but the track bar would have been a challange.
When I first got this truck it was like driving an old school bus down the road, sawing the wheel from 10 to 2 just to keep it on the road. With new bushings, tie rod ends and steering linkage, ball joints, wheel bearings, and a little tightening of the steering gear box it finally tracks straight as an arrow and is a lot more fun to drive.
And yeah I'm sorry I ddin't take more pictures. i will do better in the future. I just get so caught up in the project I forget until I'm done then think you idiot you forgot again.
Energy suspension products gets a thumbs up for completeness of parts in the kit, instructions, and customer service.
If anyone has a welded end track bar and wants free replacement bushings PM me. The set came with them and I won't use them.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,856
Likes: 52
From: Sacramento Delta, CA
I ended up buying a used SnapOn 600lb torque wrench on Craigslist when I did mine. IIRC, the track bar bolts must be torqued to 400lbs?
Also used a bench vise with 1/2" steel plates and 1/2" sockets to remove and install the Energy Suspension replacement bushings.
[As an aside, this didn't cure my Death Wobble. Only the dual opposing gas pressurized Bilstein shocks anchored to the differential and to the tie rod ends cured the DW.]
Also used a bench vise with 1/2" steel plates and 1/2" sockets to remove and install the Energy Suspension replacement bushings.
[As an aside, this didn't cure my Death Wobble. Only the dual opposing gas pressurized Bilstein shocks anchored to the differential and to the tie rod ends cured the DW.]
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
fiveohpatrol
Excursion - King of SUVs
4
Sep 13, 2011 08:51 PM
