engine shut down while driving
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engine shut down while driving
'01 excursion, 7.3l... pretty much stock
While driving down the highway yesterday at about 65 mph, engine just shut down... no jerking, pops, or noises, it was as if it lost fuel pressure. The engine didn't die immediately, it lost all power and slowly just fizzled out like it ran out of fuel (truck has about half a tank of fuel). The rpm gauge was working as the engine slowly shut down and I coasted to a stop. Tried starting and it cranks but doesn't turn over. Thinking that it lost the fuel pump, i opened up the fuel filter to check to see if there was fuel and cycled the key to see if it was pumping fuel, which it was. I closed the fuel filter and cycled the key again and listened to make sure the fuel pump kicked on and it shut off a few seconds later. Thinking that it could be a bad cam position sensor, I swapped it out with the spare I had in the truck, still nothing.... engine cranks but doesn't turn over or sound like it is close to turning over.
Where do I go from here to trouble shoot this to get it back up and running?
While driving down the highway yesterday at about 65 mph, engine just shut down... no jerking, pops, or noises, it was as if it lost fuel pressure. The engine didn't die immediately, it lost all power and slowly just fizzled out like it ran out of fuel (truck has about half a tank of fuel). The rpm gauge was working as the engine slowly shut down and I coasted to a stop. Tried starting and it cranks but doesn't turn over. Thinking that it lost the fuel pump, i opened up the fuel filter to check to see if there was fuel and cycled the key to see if it was pumping fuel, which it was. I closed the fuel filter and cycled the key again and listened to make sure the fuel pump kicked on and it shut off a few seconds later. Thinking that it could be a bad cam position sensor, I swapped it out with the spare I had in the truck, still nothing.... engine cranks but doesn't turn over or sound like it is close to turning over.
Where do I go from here to trouble shoot this to get it back up and running?
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
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From: Lake Hartwell, GA
Just because it is free and easy, unplug the ICP and try to start.
If that doesn't work, check to make sure the nut on the back of the IPR is there.
How long did it sit before you tried to start it? Reason I ask is because the IPR may be going bad and needs time to cool. If you have a can of compressed air you could turn it upside down and cool it that way.
Is there oil in the engine?
Is there oil in the HPOP reservoir?
Do you have a scan tool?
If that doesn't work, check to make sure the nut on the back of the IPR is there.
How long did it sit before you tried to start it? Reason I ask is because the IPR may be going bad and needs time to cool. If you have a can of compressed air you could turn it upside down and cool it that way.
Is there oil in the engine?
Is there oil in the HPOP reservoir?
Do you have a scan tool?
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Well it happened yesterday morning on my way to work and I replaced the sensor in the evening and tried again after that... the IPR was replaced recently and everything is connected properly on that. Yes, oil in the engine, reads normal on the stick. I'll have to check the HPOP resevoir, but while cranking, the oil pressure goes up to normal range, so I'm assuming there is oil in it.
My buddy brought his scan tool but it is a hypertech and is giving me some weird codes that don't correlate. I'm getting one so that I can check what the service engiine light is reading. also pulled the batteries to charge them up because they were starting to drain from cranking on it. i
My buddy brought his scan tool but it is a hypertech and is giving me some weird codes that don't correlate. I'm getting one so that I can check what the service engiine light is reading. also pulled the batteries to charge them up because they were starting to drain from cranking on it. i
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
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From: Lake Hartwell, GA
Just to be clear, the CPS and IPR were Motorcraft or International?
I believe that the oil pressure gauge reads from the LPOP and not the HPOP pressures. Which in turn would indicate that there is oil in the HPOP reservoir, but it takes a few seconds to verify that. Trust but verify...
Is the engine light on? I might have missed that in the first post... If it is on, then the best course of action is to read the codes and post them here.
Batteries need at least 10.5v while cranking to start the truck I believe.
Keep us updated.
I believe that the oil pressure gauge reads from the LPOP and not the HPOP pressures. Which in turn would indicate that there is oil in the HPOP reservoir, but it takes a few seconds to verify that. Trust but verify...
Is the engine light on? I might have missed that in the first post... If it is on, then the best course of action is to read the codes and post them here.
Batteries need at least 10.5v while cranking to start the truck I believe.
Keep us updated.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 7,760
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From: Hampton, Maryland.
The way he describes the spin down, it sounds similar to when my fuel pump died in February after fuel had gelled the month before. Sous has you on the right track with checking the boxes on possible causes. Check the fuel bowl and make sure it is filling too.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
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From: Lake Hartwell, GA
I remember a couple of FTE'rs that had a fuel pump fail on them in an unusual way. The pump would hold enough pressure to sustain idle RPM's, but any time throttle was being applied, the fuel pump would fail and FP would fall to a point where the engine would stall. I had the same thoughts as HKusp, but figured that FP would be on the back burner since it doesn't start even though mad329 stated there was fuel in the bowl and he can audibly hear the fuel pump priming. Which doesn't really mean anything other than the pump is not completely dead.
More data/trouble symptoms are required.
More data/trouble symptoms are required.
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So I finally got around to checking the codes... The scanner pulled 2 codes, P0672 and P0674. I looked those up and it was faulty glow plugs. I doubt that would cause what happened to happen.
I also used the torque app to look at the sensor values. ICP was 9 at its highest value. I disconnected the sensor and it read 2300. I also noticed after watching a youtube video that the sensor was the old style and not a new one. IPR started at 14.7% and jumped to 64.2% while cranking. battery was 11.4V. RPM's only measured in at 125, but it sounded like a normal crank. I forgot to look in the hpop resevoir, but i will do that tomorrow.
So I'm thinking two things, faulty ICP sensor or I didn't install the CPS properly. Couple thoughts with that were that it still didn't turn over while cranking with the ICP sensor disconnected and would a faulty ICP sensor cause it to shut down and then not start.
Also worth mentioning is that the HPOP and IPR were replaced about 60k miles ago because the hpop had been leaking around the seal and while replacing it, I stripped one of the hp oil line connectors by over torquing it so I just replaced the whole thing.
I also used the torque app to look at the sensor values. ICP was 9 at its highest value. I disconnected the sensor and it read 2300. I also noticed after watching a youtube video that the sensor was the old style and not a new one. IPR started at 14.7% and jumped to 64.2% while cranking. battery was 11.4V. RPM's only measured in at 125, but it sounded like a normal crank. I forgot to look in the hpop resevoir, but i will do that tomorrow.
So I'm thinking two things, faulty ICP sensor or I didn't install the CPS properly. Couple thoughts with that were that it still didn't turn over while cranking with the ICP sensor disconnected and would a faulty ICP sensor cause it to shut down and then not start.
Also worth mentioning is that the HPOP and IPR were replaced about 60k miles ago because the hpop had been leaking around the seal and while replacing it, I stripped one of the hp oil line connectors by over torquing it so I just replaced the whole thing.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Mcdonough, GA
Sounds awfully familiar to me since I just went through an HPOP that died. How old are your injector o-rings? Sounds like you're not getting high pressure oil. Since HPOP and IPR are new maybe had an oring blow? Could do a Cody Test. Who did you get your HPOP from?
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It's a Van Gogh
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Elk Grove, CA
Clear the codes to see if they come back. But yeah, glow plugs ain't the problem here.
First guess is fuel bowl heater. Unplug that wire, replace the correct fuse for your model year, leave wire unplugged, attempt to start.
Second guess, does the ICP have oil at the harness connection?
Third guess, inspect wire harness at the 42 pin connector. The underside can rub on the valve cover and cause shorts.
First guess is fuel bowl heater. Unplug that wire, replace the correct fuse for your model year, leave wire unplugged, attempt to start.
Second guess, does the ICP have oil at the harness connection?
Third guess, inspect wire harness at the 42 pin connector. The underside can rub on the valve cover and cause shorts.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 10,750
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From: Douglassville, PA
Hmmmm...so...right now you don't know if you have a faulty ICP sensor, bad O ring leak or bad HPOP and maybe a fuel issue. ICP sensors were pretty pricey last time I looked at them. Could you stick a dial gauge in one of the oil rail holes and verify ICP? Or do you have access to another ICP sensor to swap in? But since disconnecting it didn't help I'd be more inclined to go with one of the other options.
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so today i had a few minutes to work on it... i checked to ensure there was oil in the hpop, which there is. I also pulled the icp sensor off and tried cranking the engine over. I figured it would spray oil, but instead all i got was a slow ooze.
Yes, when you go to cycle the engine on, it has a wait to start and that goes off, and no there isn't an anti-theft light flashing
Can anyone answer if a faulty icp sensor would cause the engine to not start?
Yes, when you go to cycle the engine on, it has a wait to start and that goes off, and no there isn't an anti-theft light flashing
Can anyone answer if a faulty icp sensor would cause the engine to not start?
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 10,750
Likes: 1,065
From: Douglassville, PA
A faulty ICP sensor could cause a no-start but disconnecting it will cause the PCM to set a default value, which would let the truck run. Did you unscrew the sensor from the head and only got a dribble of oil?
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yes, completely unscrewed the sensor and it only oozed out of the hole with oil.... am i correct in thinking the hpop would be the issue here, or is there another reason, you wouldn't have pressure at the rail like that. LIke i said, there is oil in the hpop reservoir, so I'm thinking the lpop is working. I replaced the IPR and CPS already, so I'm left with thinking the hpop isn't working properly. I didn't get around to checking the wire harness. Would that cause no oil pressure?
What are your opinions? Also checked the codes again, just the ones for the faulty glow plugs....
What are your opinions? Also checked the codes again, just the ones for the faulty glow plugs....