So I have been trying to resist posting about this until I check basics like computer codes. My truck is shifting very hard from 1st to 2nd. I think subsequent shifts are getting harder as well. I am monitoring fluid level, when this became noticeable; it was at the lower hashes. My fluid is bright red and my know it leaks at the selector shaft input seal. I do think I about 2 quarts of type F fluid in there now, I figured topping it off wouldn’t hurt until I got to the shaft seal but that was a year ago and it kept shifting fine. I am at the point I had eliminated all leaks at the cooler and radiator so I hadn’t been having to top it off very much or very often. What would cause it to shift so hard 1st to 2nd? It is reminiscent of when the PSOM was out or hitting a small drainage ditch when driving across a field. The truck physically shudders very hard. Could this be a mixed fluid issue? Can a code check identify any problems with the PSOM or transmission? The sensor on the rear diff is about a year and half old and the speedo is behaving normally. I having Valvoline Merc ATF on the way. Also to look for a leak from the transmission the transfer case, do I check the fluid when hot or cold, do I need to driving with it engaged for a period before checking fluid level? The front of the transmission case is dry when I feel around the plug under the torque converter.

 

It wouldn't hurt to check for codes but what you really need to do is drop the fluid and fill it with dexron III/mercon or mercon V. Nothing else. Type F hasn't been specced for a transmission since the mid 80's I don't think. Mercon V is backwards compatible with trannys requiring mercon, but mercon will not work in those that require mercon V

 

Hopefully, the Type F hasn't destroyed the transmission. You might get out of this without a full rebuild.

Replace ALL of the fluid using this method: https://www.ford-trucks.com/articles...-transmission/ Use a fluid with a MERCON V rating.

 

Having trouble with links at the moment. Does the E4OD have a drain plug on the torque converter and does the transmission need to be in neutral for me to rotate the engine to rotate the torque converter around? Topping it with F, on hand before replacing leaking Cardone steering pump was really that bad?

 

Dang it looks like 15 quarts of the mercon fluid will leave me short looking a the procedure above, I was not planning on doing the cooler lines. I have at least 10 quarts, probably 15 of the Mercon V in the shed. Is the same brand Valvoline. Will mixing kill this trans? This is my first go at anything other than a fluid and filter change for a transmission. Also, just to check that I was not leaking to my transfer case, do I check the level at the top plug with the fluid cold? I have a new pan with drain plug, filter, and gasket that I had bought last year on hand, the link you posted states to avoid replacing the filter though?

 

I misread the part about the filter. Thank you for the link. Is there any concern about gnats or any other bugs being attracted to the fluid while I am draining it enough work underneath it to get to the selector shaft seal? Given my experience level, should I wait for a fair weather weekend or is ok to leave a trashbag tapped over the drain pan opening over night or for a couple days or so. I do think I need to deal with the radiator and trans cooler to install my new-to-me-repaired-oem radiator core support.

 

Oh, while I am blowing up the forum, what is the torque for the drain pan bolts? I assume use a general star/crossing pattern is fine. I can check my Chilton or bite the bullet and try to get started this afternoon if I can stand the heat to dig out/find the selector shaft seals. I think its an O-ring and a rubber seal which looks like common seal.

 

Seems like since I am so over invested in fluid I should follow the whole procedure using the Mercon V to try to flush out the mixed fluid and then drain and fill until its almost all Mercon. So much for 10 plus 3 for the torque converter and using the last two quarts of Mercon for the transfer case.

If all else fails, can a E4OD from a diesel be used as is if I can sort through wire connector differences? I think I have seen a few for sale in my local Facebook Market Place.

 

IF you put it in a gas burner case... Bell housing pattern is different...

 

Yes, there is a drain plug in the torque converter. The engine can be rotated with the trans in any gear. The engine will run in any gear, right?

Topping off with Type F is that bad.

Top plug? I don't know where there is a top plug. You check the fluid with the transmission dipstick. The fluid can only be checked with the transmission warmed up and the engine idling and the trans in park.

There is no need to replace the filter until the transmission is rebuilt.

120 in-lbs, not ft-lbs.

If you follow the procedure as written it will change all of the fluid. You don't need to drain and fill after that.

A diesel trans won't bolt to your engine.

 

Looks like all the v I thought I had is lv and I have either lost the selector shift shaft seals or I never got them. Anyone have links or part numbers. Much needed rain is fixing to roll in tonight. The only red fluid I could find was below the seals and same back corner of the pan. I also have one pan bolt missing by wiring harness. I felt the wiring harness to see if it felt tight from the new body lift and it seems fine. Wonder if anyone would buy 15 unopened quarts for 20 bucks?
transfer case did not pour fluid out of the fill hole. It wasn’t quite to the brim feeling I expected but my finger still hit fluid that was bright red and no burnt smell.

 

Looks like timken 7929s. Is there an o ring that is needed too?

 

Changed/fushed (including torque converter) fluid with shift shaft seal and filter replaced. New OE type gasket and dorman drain pan with drain plug installed. The previous owner had told me he had serviced the trans, and it appeared he had. The filter looked clean inside after it drained out and the pan/magnet were far cleaner than any photos or videos I have ever seen. He did fubar the threads for one drain pan bolt. I heli-coiled that and scored a $50 spare or core transmission over the weekend. Valvoline Dex #/Merc fluid was installed and used to flush for a bit. Amazon had a great price. Out of the gate it seems to have gone better than it did for my 97 that never went in drive again after driving home following the flush and filter change. Drove it gingerly for a bit to warm it up and get fluid level correct. Let it cool down and then made two more trips and checked to make sure I had the level right. On the second and third drive it seemed to be not quite as hard from first to second. The first test drive it was still shifting hard enough that the dash creaked. All other shifts seem to be getting smoother or barely perceivable again. For the third trip, it wouldn't turn the starter in park but started in neutral so I might have goofed the safety switch a little, it started in park at the gas station though. I think I flushed a little longer than the procedure needed so I used almost 5 gallons total.

Still unsure this isn't electrical, it seems to be staying long in 1st before shifting hard to second, similar to how it acted when my PSOM was burned out.

On a note for others. While I might have been the source or the error, I had some difficulty with the $3.99 7929S from autozone. I bought a different part number from NAPA which cross referenced and the manager price matched it. It either went in easier or I developed a better plan of attack for myself. I used a spare M8 AC compressor bolt with a 19mm 1/2" socket and some 5/8" fender washers and nut to compress it into place. The front driveshaft prevented me from being able to tap it in the 7929S evenly. I hoard fasteners so that cost was $0.

Even if the trans is damaged, I do not regret learning how to do this service or repairing the leak.

 

@Mark KovalskyI meant the top plug when checking the transfer case fluid. I wanted to verify I did not have a secondary leak into the transfer case.

 

shifting better, same