So, you air tested through the ICP port? Did you command the IPR closed?

 

No batteries in place, so the IPR maybe open (guess that makes some sense)

Also just watched Deseltechrons video he mentioned that the High pressure oil pump leaks air.
I still have the Turbo in place, so it could be coming through the turbo oil tube?
don't think any of the injectors are leaking but hard to tell with the air noise at the turbo

installed the new 12mm dummy plugs and Standpipe both sides, restested seems only at the turbo.
covered up both side covers for now with towel and cleaned up for today

 

If you don't close the IPR (dump valve) the air will escape through it.

The IPR regulates pressures by dumping off oil volume.

The IPR can only be energized continuously for 30 seconds maximum, or the coil will burn up

 

roger that :>)
since i have most of the top end torn off likely pull the IPR next.
don't want to pull the Turbo or The HPOP more parts i don't have as yet!

On Monday if i get home from work earlier, as i have the tool for the IPR

supposedly at this point the IPR is a 10 min pull :>) (maybe prior knowledge :>) got to love the internet.
well Monday is another day

can you cycle the injectors while under air pressure (good /bad idea) ?
anyway done for today
thanks

 

Well good thing i pulled the IPR out
really not too bad to do from the drivers side. rather then removing the Turbo.

four Caveats
have the IPR seal Kit Ford 3C3Z-9H529-A Fits my 2006 F250 lariat got mine from amazon 35 bucks next day free
2ND need a 8mm socket and 10MM socket to remove the wire loom strap and the Single ground on the Heat shield exhaust support Brackets Right behind the FICM
3rd Those two mounting nuts need to sprayed very liberally or you will likely be taking out the intake manifold studs with the Bracket.
(you will need a vise grips at this point (guess how i Know this) :>)
4th 2 wire VGT / IPR wiring plug (better to have and not need Trust me!

after that easy with the IPR tool (freedom racing) seen a set on amazon the IPR tool and the O ring kit ) just not OEM ford parts kit.
also suggestion have a long 1/2" ratchet to break the IPR free a 10" ext bar and a swivel at the tool.

so after a fight (pita) due to the frozen bracket nuts,
a very good thing i removed it as the hanger that holds the Plug into the IPR was rusted and not even holding the IPR in place.
good news the spare IPR valve came with the IPR wire connector with stubby wires.
(this was easy fix as the hanger is just fits into the side of the plug ) Just pulled OFF the new one and placed on the old working connector.

Cleaned out and replaced the seal and o-rings very little dirt, the seal was the new type and was intact.
Destroyed it to clean (hence the new parts kit)

getting that plug back in is a bit of a pita if you have very large Magilla gorilla hands.(hint here flip the hanger back and under the wire also the hanger face out and down and flips in and under the IPR just to save you some guessing got the brackets and wires in place the injector harness back in place
so a potential problem resolved don't think this was the issue.

tested all the Glow plugs all are 0.8 (less then 1-ohm) all are functional
Got the New FICM today!

Wondering how much reassembly i need to air test, and close the IPR?
would like to test the Injectors, as the valve covers are off

the Dash gauge said i had oil pressure middle of gauge (is that an adequate indicator)
Still no real idea as the issue (starts runs stalls and dies in 1-minute appx Or if i fixed) (before removing and testing)

full tank of Fuel
new FICM
new IPR hanger and seals
installed the New style 12mm standpipes and dummy plugs
swapped out 1 of the two batteries
alternator passed tests X2
no air bubbles in the fuel bowl

have to reinstall the alternator
valve covers
FICM
Batteries

so i can still do some more testing
How do you IF possible do a compression test betting the pressure is way too high for a conventional test through the Glowplug holes?
( i am assuming a dealer only testing the IDS?)

installed fourscan lite on my ios phone
once i have it mostly reassembled then hopefully i can get some data.
need to fix and finish before the weekend and / or tow to a good diesel repair shop? (think there is a guy in Kensoha WI) have to find my list (really don't want to go down that way)
So open to further ideas :>)
Recoush

 

OK after a very long week since Memorial day this 2006 ford super duty 6.0 LARIAT has been defunct.
Very annoying issue Start runs stumbles dies sometime white smoke.

Figured it today after it hydro locked (Major Oh Dang)

a friend of a friend had the correct scanner (mechanic with his own shop)
came over and figured out it was bad injector (I hope)

pulled the Glow plugs 7, 5, 3, 1 well number 5 is the critter thought it was 3 but 5 is pushing out a lot of fuel (while spinning at the alternator)
so much my driveway is now lubricated (hence why he thinks is more then just an injector)
Turned the Alternator with a 15/16" after removing all the glow plugs

Tonight i pulled the valve cover on the passenger side off and got the oil rail off (not a major source of oil) expected a lot of oil (hardly any when i removed)
wondering if it never got pressurized after all the Air time testing

So bottom line Bad injector #5 (filling the cylinder) Up was visible in the exhaust fittings ( explains the white smoke) bit not at the tailpipe as yet.

Two concerns
Installing the new injector with out dumping a ton of oil into the head?
(he said if i see fuel pouring out after removing the injector likely the cup is cracked Also to be careful as a lot of oil may spill into the head (an oil drain on the head?)

how do i torque those last 3 left side rail bottom bolts T30? the last two on the bottom (my fix to remove used a socket T30 wrapping A vise grip around the socket
got it off but that wont work for proper torque on the oil rail reinstall?