Ordinarily I would wait to wake up one morning, have my vehicle not start, do the diagnostics, and replace the battery. Now that I have two batteries and, more importantly, find myself in BF, Egypt with the camper in the bed, I worry about the no-start issue.

Both batteries (original, I'm pretty sure) in my 2006 have lost their green lights. In S NV, we rarely get past 24 months or so w/o cooking batteries so I'm thinking I may be living on borrowed time. The truck only got used about 2k last year which may account for the battery longevity so far. My questions:

-with two batteries do they still just quit or do they noticably degrade? A degradation would be a nice heads-up.

-do the green lights mean anything?

-I think batteries can test OK and still be able to fail soon thereafter, true?

-is it false security to think I could pull the deep cycle out of my camper and get a successful jump to start the truck?

Thanks in advance...

Bob

 

The only way to know for sure is have your batteries load tested and test them with a hydrometer (I think that's what it's called). Have your charging system tested and test for parasitic drain. Here's a thread about that subject: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ery-drain.html

If your truck normally starts OK I'd think you could possibly start it from one battery in an emergency situation. I have started mine that way, but it cranks slowly AND a bad battery or batteries will make jumping difficult.

 

The green ball in the batteries is telling you the specific gravity is not correct and failure is in the future. Have the batteries tested! Most walmarts test for free and they use a really good tester made by snap on and gives you a full print out of battery condition. I would be those batteries are close to 60% after all they are 5 years old and past my safe range for diesel batteries! A low power slow crank ruined my FICM and I don't want to do that again!!

 

1. The "eye" only reads the approximate condition of one out of six cells in each battery.

2. A friend of mine abused the batteries in his 2006 Powerstroke by often running a power inverter via the cigarette lighter plug with the motor off. This drained the starter batteries rather deeply. He then moved from California to Wyoming where the truck was parked outside 24/7. The batteries failed during the winter of 2009. He removed both and placed them in my heated to +45F garage for 24 hours, then used a battery charger with a desulfate cycle on both. It brought the batteries back to life for 7 months. One more desulfate cycle got another 6 months out of them and then he replaced both.

Just about the time he finally replaced the batteries, the truck threw a code. The FICM was toast. Fortunately he was still under the 5/100 powertrain warranty.

I know the FICM requires full voltage to avoid failure and I suspect it wasn't getting it as the batteries degraded to a no start condition three times.

3. My 2005 Powerstroke has its original batteries. They load test at 97%-100%. Unlike my friend, I always keep my batteries hooked to a Deltran Battery Tender every single minute my truck is at home. Even if I stop by the house for 10 minutes, I plug in the Deltran Battery Tender. I have my original FICM.

I never run electric accessories without the engine on and up idling or on the road.

4. Sulfation kills batteries. Sulfation occurs when batteries are below optimum state of charge. Your alternator cannot charge your batteries to or keep them at optimum charge. A Deltran Battery tender charges your batteries to 100% and keeps them there. The longer your batteries are at 100% charge, the longer they will last.

5. If you have any doubts about your batteries, replace them. They are cheaper than a FICM. Buy a Deltran battery tender and hook your truck to it whenever it is at home. Don't run electric accessories unless you up idle or are moving.


My 2004 Mustang Mach 1 has its original battery. It too has been hooked up to a Deltran Battery Tender like a patient in an I.V. drip.

 

Actually, two batteries can be about the same price as a FICM, at least a FICM repair anyway!

They are all expensive, it pays to take good care of them (batteries, FICM, alternator, etc)

 

You're right, but I have never met anyone who actually got longer life out of premium batteries or AGM batts.

After speaking with engineers at Schumaker (chargers), Deltran (battery tenders), and EnerSys (Sears Platinum and Odessey Batteries), I 've come to the conclusion that a lower priced conventional UNSEALED battery that is maintained on a Deltran Battery Tender will outlast a Platinum, Odessey or Optima on a battery tender.

I asked the Schumaker engineer what kind of batteries he buys for his own vehicles. He answered the lowest priced unsealed conventional batteries that he can top off. (He uses a Schumaker battery tender on all his vehicles.) He specifically said he couldn't justify the extra expense of a sealed or ATGM battery over a properly maintained lower price conventional battery.

People seem to think there is something magical that makes a maintenance free sealed battery more durable than a conventional battery. Sure, the AGM and sealed batteries may be constructed of more expensive materials (maybe), but the fact remains the SEALED aspect of a battery just means it's overfilled with electrolyte at the factory. The problem is the overfill estimates electrolyte loss over the life of the battery;.

If you operate in conditions that maximize electrolyte depletion (like high temperatures), electrolyte can easily fall below the plates, but since you can check or top off a sealed battery, you won't know you're boned until the truck won't start.

I'll take a set of conventional non sealed batteries that I can check and top off along with a Deltran Battery Tender over any expensive super battery.

 

There are applications for the different technologies.

AGM's are more resistant to vibrations. Sealed batteries will not have the issues of corrosive gasses causing slow, methodical corroison under the hood or in a boat engine compartment. Deep cycle can recover from being drained better, etc.

I assume you meant "can't" (not that I want to be the "vernacular police" lol).


I agree though, battery tenders are great tools. They are an inconvenience that most folks will not mess with, so other choices get discussed. I would love to see the data that shows a cheap battery on a battery tender will outlast an expensive battery on a battery tender!

 

In the last 15 years, I can't recall a single car/truck show or magazine buildup that didn't use an Optima. Certainly that has something to do with how many think about batteries. My 33hp New Holland came with an Optima (it was used) and it's been fine, but when the time comes, I'm going way cheaper.

While my 6.0 is my daily driver, I'm also a Toyota 22r guy. It's comical how many people (with no winches or other power sucking accessories) run Optimas in their rigs. I have had wally world batteries last 7+ years in one of those trucks, it isn't like it takes much to turn them over.

 

If you use a charger, did you get one that charges both batteries or just one?

B

 

The batteries in your truck are connected. I attach my Deltran Battery tender to the passenger side battery and it tops off both.

 

The parts that go into magazine builds are most often supplied at little or no cost. The build articles are advertisements for suppliers. That's why supplier contactb information is always provided.

I've never read one negative word about any parts used in a magaziie build up, but there are plenty of threads on car and truck forums about Optimas crapping out early. Some people believe the quality changed when production moved to Mexico.

I find most Optima applications comical. Optimas are supposed to handle deep cycling better than regular batteries. My question is, "So what?" They are great for trolling motors, but how can you use the deep discharge-ability of an AGM in an automotive application without calling a tow truck?

I live in Cody, Wyoming. I can leave home in my truck and be on the side of a mountain and up 3,000 feet in 15 minutes, where depending on the weather I couldn't walk out, have no cell phone coverage and there's a pretty good chance I won't see another human for weeks, months or even years. Deep discharging my AGMs just because they can take it could kill me.

If you deep discharge your truck batteries, you are stuck waiting for a jump or tow. So what if an Optima or Odessey can take a deep discharge? IT'S STILL DISCHARGED JUST LIKE A REGULAR BATTERY AND YOU ARE STUCK. I'm not going to drive 50 miles off road, turn off the engine and proceed to discharge my batteries where they are cheap wet cells or expensive AGMs simply because both will discharge and leave me stuck.

Since I only used electric accessories with the engine up idled when stationary, I never deep discharge my batteries, Optimas are pointless. If I had a bazzilion watt stereo and entered contests, I'd get AGMs so I could run the stereo during the contest with the engine off, then charge up the near-dead batteries and go home.

I guess the average guy could get some benefit out of AGMs if he plays his radio while doing a two day detail in the driveway. Kill the batts, recharge and go to work on Monday without damage.

 

I'm just going with my regular batteries + Deltran Battery Tenders in all my vehicles versus friends and their AGMs. Further, battery threads on forums are all over the place. Guys report Optimas dying in 9 months, others 12 years. same with conventional batteries.

The fact remains regardless of technology, a battery that is kept at 100% charge will last longer than another which isn't. You need a tender to do that.

 

A good example of where sealed AGM's are factory supplied and a good idea are motorcycles. They have more vibration and if you lay it down you don't want acid running all over you. Another good use for sealed batteries are for people that don't have a clue. A non sealed will not last them as long.

 

Well, thanks for all the discussion. I think before I go out again away from everything/one (as in WY) I'll swap the batts out. O'Reilly has some 800 or 850 cca traditional batts for around $125 ea, has a good warranty, and offers a military discount so I'll probably go with them.

I didn't know the 100k powertrain warranty was limited to 5 yrs. If so, that's a worry.

Re XB70. I have a Valkyrie but it only has two wheels and flies close to the ground.

I have tenders for my motorcycles and will kick around getting one for the truck.

Tks,

Bob