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Hello I have a 2005 Ford 350. I am trying to narrow down an issue with an intermittent start ,run and die....
I have tested the Camshaft sensor by installing new leads and connector onto sensor while it is still installed in block. I have also tested with OEM lead plugged in and tested at PCM orange and red wires.
I have tested the ohms from the ends of leads and at the PCM connector and I am getting about 840 ohms.
I have tried running a Hertz test and while cranking have not shown any reading show up on my metter.
There is a small scale at the bottom of digital readout that blips but thats it.
Does the engine need to crank fast to have the sensor produce the signal or Hertz that I am looking for?
I have done this test at the PCM connector and get the same results.
The ohms from the PCM to the sensor should be 800-1000. So that tests good for a start. But it could be kicking out while it's running.
First, what were the codes prior to testing?
Second, when cranking, are it getting CMP/CKP sync?
Why do you suspect cam sensor over anything else like IPR or bad STC fitting, or a high pressure oil leak?
Just trying to get to where you're at is all.
Starting with codes is number one.
He has other recent threads where there was an air test and gurgling at the oil filter.
OP - Could you update us on what happened there? New HPOP as suggested?
The reason we are asking about other things is because you can get a cam sensor code simply for stall events or excessive cranks. This is even with a good cam sensor.
The only real way your going to see anything looking for a signal is with a lab scope or a full blown oscilloscope.
The Fluke 117 just does not have the sensitivity needed to see that signal and is likely loading down the output anyway.
He has other recent threads where there was an air test and gurgling at the oil filter.
OP - Could you update us on what happened there? New HPOP as suggested?
The reason we are asking about other things is because you can get a cam sensor code simply for stall events or excessive cranks. This is even with a good cam sensor.
X2
And it's going to take a few to test all sensor value with a dvm plus more room for user error. Verification of sync would be tricky with dvm I've never seen it verified with one
He has other recent threads where there was an air test and gurgling at the oil filter.
OP - Could you update us on what happened there? New HPOP as suggested?
The reason we are asking about other things is because you can get a cam sensor code simply for stall events or excessive cranks. This is even with a good cam sensor.
Hi Bismic. Your correct I did have a post where air was leaking into the HPOP area. I ended up changing dummy plugs and nipple cups with HHC diesel cups and seals. I also changed hpop. I primed the oil rails with oil and cranked them a few times.
After I tested the system by pressurizing with 130 psi shop air and it held for at least 18 hours and then I released the pressure and called it good.
After I had an issue where one of the FICM connecters worked it's way out of it socket and it wouldn't start because of it. Fixed that and it was running well for a while and actually could probably idle all day if I had let it but when I would press on the gas it would die.
Anyway now it will crank and not start and I am getting p2614 and 2617 codes. Sometimes it will start for a few seconds then die.
As stated though, P2614 and P2617 are most likely a result of something other than the cam and crank signals.
Having not seen a conclusion to the other threads, it was not clear where you should look next.
IMO you need to start back at initial troubleshooting.
Post (while cranking):
cam/crank sync
FICM sync
ICP desired
ICP pressure
ICP volts
FICM MPower
FICM LPower
FICM VPower
V-reference
rpms
what does the dash oil gauge do when you crank?
Might also be good to see if:
the secondary fuel filter fills quickly w/ the key on (no cranking)
the oil level is not under or over full
I will add, don't get tripped up on the 2 codes. Those 2 codes combined usually only means there was a "Stall event" which obviously you have reported.
I will add, don't get tripped up on the 2 codes. Those 2 codes combined usually only means there was a "Stall event" which obviously you have reported.
I am using Torque pro app to check all the information that Bismic posted.
When I crank sometimes I will get FICM sync and sometimes I won't. When I get sync it seems to want to start. I am going to try again tomorrow and see the exact numbers the truck throws....thanks
So I ran some more test and found my FICM was taking awhile to get up to 48 vokts after the glow plugs cycled.
i think that was causing a long crank and no start causing the cam and crank codes to show....
So I changed the capacitior board ( found a doorman one for $40)
in my FICM and my truck will start now (FICM runs 48 at startup and then constant 49). But sometimes I have to feather the accelerator pedal to keep it running.
Also now sometimes when I press on the brakes or turn steering wheel the truck will die. Anyone have experience with this behavior?
My truck has the blue spring kit installed and and PSI stays at 60 psi at idle and also at a stand still reving engine to 3000 rpm. Is this normal? Also when I shut truck off I'm fuel pressure gauge shows 0 psi. I was under the impression that there is a check valve in the system to hold the pressure?
So I ran some more test and found my FICM was taking awhile to get up to 48 vokts after the glow plugs cycled.
i think that was causing a long crank and no start causing the cam and crank codes to show....
That is what we were saying.
We would still like to see the data requested .......................... Not sure why you decided not to post the data.
I understand that it is no longer a "no-start", but posting the requested ICP and IPR data would also help in troubleshooting an issue w/ having to increase throttle to keep it running. Maybe even help w/ an engine dying in a turn, but that could also still be a FICM issue. Remember the power board is only half of the FICM.
Also, running the rpms to 3000 isn't the same as WOT fueling. Be sure to watch fuel pressure when the engine is at a high load.
