No official alignment. You are only replacing items between the axle housing and frame. You don't mess with the tie rods between the knuckles so toe isn't affected.

I did have to adjust my steering wheel ("tie rod" between the pitman arm and knuckle) as the taller stance made the wheel off-center. A quick adjustment of the adjustment tube and all was good.

 

Be careful not to compare ancient stock springs with new. You might aim for level with the old spring specs, but end up with squat (quite literally). Stock clearance between the bump stops on the front end is 4 to 4 1/2 inches. My front springs were so saggy that the front left had 2 1/2 " and the front right had 3" clearance between the bump stops. Just putting new stock springs on there can level the truck. I beefed up my springs, and I nailed level (much better ride) - but loading the back made Stinky look more like "Whimpy". My next step was going to be the swap out of my 2" rear blocks with 4" blocks on my 250.

 

Tugly, is the 4-4.5” from the stop to the spring or the shock plate on top of the spring? I’m kinda in the same boat right now with my 3-4 year old ATS x codes and not impressed at all how they’ve held up, literally. I’m sitting about a half inch above where I was with the stock 15 year old springs.

 

I measure the distance between the bump stops - where the springs can lower no further. I'm going off memory here, but I think the bump stop is between the axle and the frame. Somebody might chime in and correct me.

 

As are mine. Hub to center does make more sense but I am jsut looking to get an idea is all.
Thanks for the info!

 

OK So here are the measurements. Body line to floor and top of fender to floor. I know it doesn't look like much but I really see the difference when outside. As for the springs...ok so they are only about 1 inch down on the ends from the center of the springs. Still a "frown"
Shouldn't they be arched more "UP" than that? The spacing from tire top to fender edge just seems like it should be more on the front...leveling out the truck.





The pics may not show it but.....
Measurements from the floor up to the

 

Tugly's method for measuring ride height is a lot more accurate than BillyBob69's method, because Tugly's method eliminates the wheel, tire, and air pressure variables, all of which can be significant.

Ford's method for measuring ride height is a lot more accurate than Tugly's, because Ford's method also eliminates the potential variability in the compression memory and wear over time of the elastomeric bump stop.

Plus, Ford's method eliminates the design variable in bump stops. For example, Excursions, that otherwise have nearly identical front ends but for sway bar diameter, when compared to say, a 2000 F-250 4x4 that also has a Dana 50, will have a different design bumpstop, where the bumpstop of the truck is short and pointed, but the bumpstop of the Excursion is cylindrical, hollow, and convoluted... intended to be engaged earlier, while still maintaining a ride height within the same range as the comparable F250.

Ford's method? Ignore the bumpstops.

Measure from the bottom surface of the frame flange to the top surface of the spring cap casting. This eliminates all elastomeric variables, be they from wear, deformation, compression memory, or engagement design.

For BillyBob69's F-350 4x4 SRW, the Ford specification for the front leaf spring ride height is a range between 4.25" to 5.20".

I would only change the front springs if the measured height between the frame directly above the axle and the spring cap were less than 4.25". In the present instance of this thread, from the looks of the photo, that does not appear to be the case. I would wager that the current front springs remain within Ford's specification.

Flat spring appearance, or even negative arch spring appearance, is not a valid way to determine that leaf springs are sagging. This is especially true with Ford truck front leaf springs, which are parabolic (more than one leaf, where all leaves are tapered).

As examples... my 1979 Ford F-250 4x4 had negative arch springs when brand new. My F-550, with Snow Plow Prep Pkg and the heaviest front axle GVWR and spring rate that Ford ever offered in the '99-'03 era, had flat arch springs when brand new.

Rather than worry about the spring's appearance sporting a positive arch when static, I would be more concerned about the spring's function throughout the range of the truck's use, both loaded and unloaded.

A spring obviously does more than hold the truck up to a certain "stance". Springs transfer the wheel end braking forces to stop the rest of the truck. Springs maintain the tire's contact patch so that the rubber really does meet the road. Springs are the link that relays the steering direction of the axle to the rest of the chassis. Springs maintain the caster angle. Springs stabilize and resist rollover and sway.

I'd be far more concerned about a front leaf spring's free arch, rather than worry about negative arch. When starting off with a positive arched spring with the truck unloaded, how much free arch is left in that spring to maintain adequate steering traction when the rear of the truck is loaded to the max? Will a bump in the road lift the front axle entirely off the ground due to running out of the spring's range of travel when the rear is loaded aft axle?

A negative or neutral arched front spring when the truck is unloaded, may become a slightly positive arched spring once the truck is loaded, especially if the truck is loaded with a rear biased load, such as a heavy tongue weight of a tag trailer. That is when one will especially appreciate still having enough free arch, or range of motion within the spring, to maintain the contact patch of the steering axle, and still function as a spring, rather than as a metal limit strap.

 

from the 2001 Factory service manual


1

 

OK I'm back. Got squirrel'd with other projects.....
So my measurements were merely to show the 5 inch difference front to back that annoys me. I saw Tugly's pic and love the stance. That is what I am shooting for or at least close to it. I drive this truck daily and as mentioned, gets the occasional load but nothing that would squat it in the back. She is usually empty. Even when pulling the tractor on the flatbed I load it so that just a little weight is forward of the trailer axles. The truck only pulls the load, the trailer carries it. I just need enough weight forward to avoid fish tailing . And the gooseneck horse trailer is getting lighter so no worries there, (down to two horses left. Wife lost her last one 4 months ago.)

Anyway....so I will get under the old girl today and check the distance on the bump stops. Should of done it yesterday when I was putting in the new track bar. Ah well.... stay tuned. Lets see if I am bitching for nothing or if I really am seeing an extreme drop in the front.

 

Ok... From the locations shown in the pics. 3 drivers,3 1/4 passenger. So no it isn’t just because of looks I knew it was off.
I have searched my state and as crazy as it sounds, driving instate for new springs is more expensive than ordering them from out of state. So...ATS will be getting an order from me soon. Just need to work out whch rating.

 

I went with the 43-818s and it did not change front end alignment at all, just leveled the truck..... at least with my crude measurement method

Rear height




front height before new springs




Front height after new springs

 

I appreciate the simplicity and effectiveness of your measurement method

 

@Allaboutmpg I'm getting thirsty now.

@'86F350ken these guys are measuring from bump stop to spring, check yours.

 

I'm liking that measuring stick too!

 

OK so my spring code calls for V on the front. $150 each side per ATS.
The X codes are $100 but rated for 400lbs more. Popularity?
How much of a difference in ride can I expect?