I ma planning to frame off the whole truck a section at a time. I plan to start by removing the bed fixing rust and dents and addressing rust on the frame. I decided I should start with the rear end, springs and driveshaft.

I started by taking all the parts out.




Next was disassembly painting and rebuilding. I replaced both sets of inner bearings and races. I was unable to find new drums that would fit the axle. it has the 2" shoes and the drums suggested would not fit. I decided it would be easier to convert to disk brake so on they went.

Here is the axle complete with disks, new brake lines, etc.



Here is the springs after complete disassembly, reassembly new bushings and paint:



It was a lot of work for something that most will never see or appreciate. It is the right way to do it, though.

The brakes are working well and the new bushings made a difference in the ride. The old bushings were a PAIN to get out, even with a hydraulic press.

BTW I did clean the axle ID tag up and was able to make it legible. I reinstalled it just for good measure.

Thanks for looking.

MS

 

What parts did you use for the disc swap?
john

 

I went with the kit from lugnut4x4.com they were great to work with and price was great. I couldn't piece the parts together for less.

MS

 

How hard were the new bushings to put in, I need to do this to mine.

 

For the ones in the shackle I used an air chisel to cut the steel sleeve and get them out. It was a ton of work and took about an hour per sleeve. I took the springs to a buddies shop and used a hydraulic press to press them out. It was almost too much for the press. They did not want to move after 40+ years.

 

I had the same problem when I did mine. I used a press to get the old bushings out and it was a PITA. And the outer steel sleeves all separated from the rubber part of the bushing and stayed in place. I used a air grinder with a special narrow cutting tip to put a notch in them length-ways, then a chisel to collapse and remove them.

 

Did you cut your rear end swap bar ends?
What are you doing for a rear e-brake? Can not see a connection point.

Motivation to keep you on track. DETAILED THREAD! https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...storation.html

Very nice looking job on the rear axle, I am sure the rest of the truck is going to be very nice also.

 

I did cut them. They were designed to mount on the outside of the flange (wheel side). Not sure why but they did not have enough spacing there on my axle. The bolt pattern on mine is not standard either. I had to cut a relief so the mounting plate could mount to the inside of the flange. I also had to bore the ID out so they would fit.

When mounted where they were supposed to be they looked like this:


There is supposed to be .75" clearance between disk and bracket. Mine made contact before the bearing was fully seated.

So I did this:


I was going to use my plasma cutter but didn't think I would have a steady enough hand. I ended up using a spindle sander...slowly.

Then i mounted them to the inside and used one washer between the flange and the bracket.


I did not do anything for E brake. It's a manual so I just stick it in reverse when leaving it. I did not weld the brackets to the axle so that I can change to the 88 eldorado calipers with e brake provision. I am not sure if the bracket would need to be flipped to make the e brake spring hookups easier.

I also may try to rig up a driveshaft e brake. They are used sometimes in the rockcrawling world and they are a neat feature. check it out here. My old jeep is in one of the pics on this site.

Thanks for the kuddos on the work so far. I enjoy it and like it to look professional. I am not sure what direction I am going yet with the whole truck, but ridding rust is always a good start.

 

I meant to ask about your SWAY bar that looks cut off on both ends in the 1st pic. Those are kind of hard to find, I take it you are not going to reuse it?
If mounting that bracket on the other side is what you had to do to get the required clearance then so be it, good thinking. Looks good.
With the rear dis conversion have you read anywhere about a possible need to change your (differential valve, pressure differential valve, proportional valve)?
Thanks for the drive line disk brake link. I dug into that H.A.D site and see they have some nice stuff for early Bronco's.

 

I don't believe this particular sway bar is factory. I did not cut it in any way though. I still have it and the mounts. it was mounted to the axle with ubolts and to the frame with what appeared to be home brew 3/8" thick steel clamp contraptions. They look flame cut to me.

I have read about the differential valves. Mine work. There is maybe more pedal travel prior to the brakes activating. Not sure the new valve will effect that so I am going to live without it for now.

No problem on the link. Jesse is a great guy and make tough stuff.

 

They are easy to put in if you have a press. The simple way is to first, press the center steel sleeve out. Second, press the rubber out and last cut the outer sleeve out at the parting line with a torch or you could take your hack saw blade off, put it through the hole and back on the saw then cut it at the parting line. Trying to push the whole thing out at once is not going to work out very well.