Erratic start when cold, engine not turning
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Erratic start when cold, engine not turning
Once started my old truck runs perfectly. It always starts when I drove it within a few hours. Otherwise it takes a few tries:
- Turn the key all the way. I hear the usual loud "clank" that should be followed by the engine firing.
- After a few times -- it seems the longer the truck sites, the more attempts (from 3 to 15) until it fires
- It basically feels as if there wasn't enough power to turn the engine yet
- I got a battery tester for CCA and it is good. The tool had a starting check and that passed (once the truck started).
- I checked and cleaned the contacts at the battery (only 1.4 years old, an Interstate)
Reading the forum (I am new), some suggest a bad starter motor, some suggest replacing the fuel pump, others changing the spark plugs.
If indeed that's the only possibilities, then I guess I can get the local mechanic to do that, but I'd rather not given the cost.
Thank you for sharing your advice.
- Turn the key all the way. I hear the usual loud "clank" that should be followed by the engine firing.
- After a few times -- it seems the longer the truck sites, the more attempts (from 3 to 15) until it fires
- It basically feels as if there wasn't enough power to turn the engine yet
- I got a battery tester for CCA and it is good. The tool had a starting check and that passed (once the truck started).
- I checked and cleaned the contacts at the battery (only 1.4 years old, an Interstate)
Reading the forum (I am new), some suggest a bad starter motor, some suggest replacing the fuel pump, others changing the spark plugs.
If indeed that's the only possibilities, then I guess I can get the local mechanic to do that, but I'd rather not given the cost.
Thank you for sharing your advice.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,931
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that's the BIG question.. If the motor is CRANKING GOOD, but wont start, then you probably need FUEL.
If you turn the key and you get CLICK, CLICK.. and no motor spinning.. and finally it spins and starts, then you have a problem with the wires / starter motor / battery / terminals.
If you turn the key and you get CLICK, CLICK.. and no motor spinning.. and finally it spins and starts, then you have a problem with the wires / starter motor / battery / terminals.
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It is getting worst... I had the starter motor replaced. The local guy (trusted by many) said it was mostly gone. Waited 24 hours. Same problem.
To answer Steve and Alloro:
- I turn the key one notch, lights go on on the dash, anti-theft goes off, I hear the whir of the fuel pump for a few seconds
- I turn the key one more notch to start it and I get a loud metallic "clonk" noise. No click-click, no spinning of the motor.
In other words, it is not like when an engine has fouled spark plugs turning over and not firing.
It is more like someone is holding down the cylinders so they wouldn't move.
After a few attempts (6 today) the truck finally fired normally. It runs beautifully afterwards. It starts normally when driven again within a few hours (it's 75+ degrees here, day and night, so it doesn't cool off all that quickly).
- the battery is new (and tested 98% good with a CCA tester)
- contacts to the battery are clean and tight
- starter motor is new...
Any other thoughts, please?
To answer Steve and Alloro:
- I turn the key one notch, lights go on on the dash, anti-theft goes off, I hear the whir of the fuel pump for a few seconds
- I turn the key one more notch to start it and I get a loud metallic "clonk" noise. No click-click, no spinning of the motor.
In other words, it is not like when an engine has fouled spark plugs turning over and not firing.
It is more like someone is holding down the cylinders so they wouldn't move.
After a few attempts (6 today) the truck finally fired normally. It runs beautifully afterwards. It starts normally when driven again within a few hours (it's 75+ degrees here, day and night, so it doesn't cool off all that quickly).
- the battery is new (and tested 98% good with a CCA tester)
- contacts to the battery are clean and tight
- starter motor is new...
Any other thoughts, please?
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,931
Likes: 180
like alloro said.......... OLD trucks had the positive starter cable running straight to the starter motor ( solenoid)... New trucks have the cable go true a relay and possibly a fuse / contact up near the fire wall on the battery side...... Follow the POSITIVE battery cable and you will see where it goes.. If the battery / cable/ starter are all new , then the GROUND cable is bad or the relay / block on the firewall has burn contacts inside and you hear the CLUNK, but no contact inside.
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Changed the Starter Relay (easy!) and we are now down to 3-4 tries before it goes from CLUNK to go. Hard to describe, but after changing the starter and its relay the CLUNK feels stronger, even the "go".
Thank you steve(ill) I will follow the GROUND cable to wherever it is connected to -- perhaps some sort of corrosion.
Thank you steve(ill) I will follow the GROUND cable to wherever it is connected to -- perhaps some sort of corrosion.
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
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I worked on an old truck that they had cut the battery clamps off the cables and installed aftermarket clamps on the original cables... fast forward a few years and the end of the cable had got corroded inside the clamp..... Look for any BAD connections, bent wires, cracked insulation, green crud growing, etc.......... positive or ground side.
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From: 0,0,1
Still sounds like a power loss issue somewhere along the battery cables.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,740
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From: Central NYS
+1
Do a Voltage drop test on the battery cables.
Set your digital voltmeter to the 20V DC scale.
Hold the positive test lead on the positive battery POST (not on the clamp).
Hold the negative test lead on the starter POST (not the connector).
Have someone attempt to crank the engine.
If your meter reads greater than 0.5V while attempting to crank you have poor connections on the positive side.
Then hold the positive lead on the frame of the starter motor.
Hold the negative lead on the negative battery POST.
Have someone attempt to crank the engine.
If your meter reads greater than 0.5V while attempting to crank the engine you have poor connections on the negative side.
Do a Voltage drop test on the battery cables.
Set your digital voltmeter to the 20V DC scale.
Hold the positive test lead on the positive battery POST (not on the clamp).
Hold the negative test lead on the starter POST (not the connector).
Have someone attempt to crank the engine.
If your meter reads greater than 0.5V while attempting to crank you have poor connections on the positive side.
Then hold the positive lead on the frame of the starter motor.
Hold the negative lead on the negative battery POST.
Have someone attempt to crank the engine.
If your meter reads greater than 0.5V while attempting to crank the engine you have poor connections on the negative side.
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Prizm7422
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Nov 28, 2018 09:44 PM