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I'll have to keep you in mind when I finish my halls Sonnie. I just tiled the kitchen last year. Working on putting some wood down in the living room now.
As far as finding leaks, coolant is pretty good about leaving a trail (stain) that you can follow. The plugs in the front are easy to see. The waterpump will usually leakfrom under the "shaft". The freeze plugs down the side of the block are a little harder to see cuz they hide under the exhaust. There should be three of them there though.They may all go at the same time but I usually change just the one that leaks unless I have to pull a man or something, then I'll change em all.
you wanna buy a pickup, stepman???? You wouldn't even have to come picker up .... she can drive her own self
Oh, and sorry about the improper post for a good link.... it's www.tileyourworld.com We've also got some great hardwood floor guys (besides myself that is).
heloo gentlemen-first time to site here-frost plugs!! i have replaced most of mine 1 or 2 times the ones at the back at top of engine can be done with...fully drained system .dry all best u can (eyes).lightly polish seal area wet/dry paper-chech for high spots,inner diameter-small amount sealant-tap in flush with socket(good diam. contact)orseal driver(short)-use side of hammer-hard on neck but does work-side ones (depending)can be accessed thru wheel well-leaks off the pan can be pump-check drain hole bttm of shaft-bypass hoses-check for pooling up top of timiiiing cover-two bolts closest to bypass hose conn.need sealant as they are common to water jacket of engine i believe-may leak out heads-but ....i just found a new one...a leak at one of those bolts where the timing cover meets the engine and what seems to be extruded gasket material at that same area-anyone heard of this -is the gasket material extra for when it is installed or what? any ideas i am going to seal the bolt (draining right now) ans see otherwise i think the timiing cover may have come off -please help !!
I had a leak once that I kept calling the waterpump, ended up being the timing cover, I think. Seems to me I remember another plate between the WP and timing cover. May not be, but the fix was no worse than pulling the water pump when it got right down to it.
thx sonnie -very cold here right now -fingers moving slow -hope the sealing of the bolt works-must wait for a bit of curing time right now-any idea how to pressure test cold without taking to a shop using household stuff i may have ??-also if it is in the timg cover any chance of sealing from the outside (mickey mouse it )-so i can get thru til weekend -i had to take the day off and cant really do that unless i reeeeaaly !! have to -?
i also would like to know if i can fina anexploded view of my 5.0 ltr on the web somewhere -'93 xlt 4x4 with a/c-i just need a pictur to see how major some of the surgery is at times ...any ideas??
If the temps are as you describe, there's no way I'd attempt to seal from outside, besides likelihood of getting it clean enough for any external sealant/adhesive are just about nil. For gods' sake, I'm no mechanic, but in a past life I worked on VW's and BSA cycles (I know... strange combination). In my current life, I do know something about adhesives.
There is some kinda stop leak stuff... I've never believed in it, but I have a mechanic (Nissan) friend who swears it'll pull you through in a pinch without affecting the metal innards. I'll see if I can get him.
It's a bitch being in your position... how much water would you have to carry to get to and from work; til we can get some sanctioned time off? I'm guessing that you've already tried torquing down the bolts. I know that ain't right, but sometimes.....
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