Caster wedge installation
Disconnected sway bar, driver side steering stabilizer mount and shocks at lower mount. Used C clamps on each end of the springs to keep them together. Removed the U bolts and allowed the axle to droop enough to get a vise grip plier on the bottom of the center bolt and remove the nut on top. I didnt need to remove the brake calipers as i had enough slack with the Russell brake lines. Drilled out the wedges with a 7/16" bit to fit the new center bolts from ATS. Installed the new center bolt through the wedge (thick end facing rearward) and through the spring pack. Tightened the nut on the center bolt to 37 ft lb.
Wedge in place on driver side
On the driver side i used a winch strap to pull the axle forward to get the center bolt to align with the hole in the spring perch.
Driver side viewed from the rear after reconnecting everything and torquing the new U bolts to 90 ft lb. Will torque to 99-100 ft lb after a few days or 100 miles.
Passenger side in place and torqued. Used the winch strap to pull the front axle rearward to seat the center bolt in the spring perch.
Took it for a test ride and it seems to be a little better with regards to wander. It's gotten better with each thing I've done: new springs all the way around, new factory steering box, new sway bar end links and D bushings.
Here is the current alignment specs. Once i install the new Spicer ball joints, Spicer axle shaft U joints and Timken unit bearings Ill take it in for alignment and hopefully get it between 5.5 and 6 degrees positve caster. One thing i noticed right away is that the steering wheel now returns to center on its own after making a turn. Previously i had to turn back to center.



