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I've got a '64 with a 223, and am looking to change out most, if not all of the motor mounts during the restoration. I'm getting conflicting info from online sources and the tech manuals, so thought I'd post here for some opinions.
I do not own an engine hoist, will that be required for me to change these out? The most important ones that I want to replace are the two lower circular mounts, located near the trans/engine union (but I did purchase a complete set to replace all of them). Or am I able to use a floor jack and replace each mount one at a time? Do I need to loosen any other mounts to be able to replace these? What would be the best order to come through replacing mounts?
Any tips, advice, or tricks would be much appreciated. Thanks
My 1966 F250 4x4 trucks use the bellhousing with the support under it. I can replace the rubber mounts one at a time using a floor jack. Once I pull the bolt out of one side then it is easy to jack it up just enough to slip out the old mount and slip in the new one. Line it up and put the bolt back in. Pretty easy overall.
Sounds good, that's what I wanted to hear. So no need to loosen the tops to remove bottoms or vice versa, right? Is it safe to use a 2x6 between the jack and oil pan? Or is there a better place to jack?
Sorry for the dumb sounding questions, but ive never done motor mounts before and am probably just overthinking it making myself worry about it for nothing.
When re looking at the truck again tonight, I didn't have any"ah-ha" moments when looking for good spots to jack up up for the replacing the front and rear insulators. The front, the only spot in could see would require using a 2x4 on the thin side under the front mounting bracket. For the rear, all I see is the transmission and I'm betting that's not a wise idea.
Any suggestions? Then way luck goes, I just know I'll end up breaking something if I just went at it right now.
1961/64 F100/700 223/262/292 engine mounting parts
Upper pic = FRONT: L shaped bracket bolts to the timing cover, there are 2 front center rubber insulators, one above, one below the cross member.
Bolt passes thru the bracket, thru the upper insulator, thru the cross member, thru the lower insulator. Nut/washer retains in place.
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Lower (lower) pic = REAR: Bell housing (7505 in pic) has R/L "ears" on it. There are 4 rubber insulators, 2 per side. One below the cross member, one above the cross member, below the ears of the bell housing.
Bolt passes thru the lower insulator, thru the cross member, thru the upper insulator, thru the ear. Nut/washer retains in place.
I currently have all off the new insulators and know where they go, but am just struggling with where to jack from.
Even though my current plan for jacking the front up seems sketchy, I think it will work. I'm just at a complete loss with where would be safe to lift the rear from.
I took the oil pan off and then used my transmission jack to jack the edges of the block where the oil pan attaches. Worked great, but I'm 4x4 so dropping the oil pan is a matter of removing the bolts and lowering it down and out.
If you put a good section of 2x6 on top of a floor jack you should be OK jacking up by the oil pan. Just go real slow and make sure you have everything disconnected so as you jack it up there is minimal resistance. The 223 is light weight enough it should be OK. Ford also made a device to help lift a 6-cylinder.
I took the oil pan off and then used my transmission jack to jack the edges of the block where the oil pan attaches. Worked great, but I'm 4x4 so dropping the oil pan is a matter of removing the bolts and lowering it down and out.
If you put a good section of 2x6 of top of a floor jack you should be OK jacking up by the oil pan. Just go real slow and make sure you have everything disconnected so as you jack it up there is minimal resistance. The 223 is light weight enough it should be OK. Ford also made a device to help lift a 6-cylinder.
Chad
Sounds perfect, thanks. I think I'll try the block with floor jack combo - this is what I was originally thinking but bnb was unsure of the strength of the oil pan.
Would I disconnect both sides of the rear mounts before lifting? Or do each side individually?
I'd probably disconnect both sides so jacking it has the least resistance. The engine might move slightly side-to-side as you do it, but once you lower it back down you can use a pry bar or some such to realign the bolt holes in the bell with the crossmember and mounts.
In the rear you can also jack by the transmission. Stay as close to the engine as possible with the jack but that interface between engine, bellhousing and transmission is strong like a bull, assuming all of the bolts are in place there.
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