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6.2 issue

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Old Mar 28, 2019 | 04:32 PM
  #1  
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6.2 issue

OK, I am crushed, my recently purchased 2016 F 250 with 150,000 miles and 6.2 is drinking oil like an Iranian oil baron. Just changed the oil yesterday, went with 10w40 syn blend Castrol drove it 30 miles and was low a pint of oil. No leaks, no smoke, cranks and runs great. Did check our forum and discovered the right side valve cove baffle problem. So, I am thinking I need to make sure that this is the problem, and nothing major. So I disconnected the pvc hose from the throttle body and plugged it, and rigged up a small filter on the pvc hose itself. This should eliminate the engine vaccume sucking my engine dry, but does the forum think I will get enough pressure relief in the crankcase? Let the replies fly. I need this truck to go to west palm beach fla from al, then up to New York, and back to bham al. In other words, it has to be right. Thanks for the help.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2019 | 04:39 PM
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With that amount of driving to be done, why not just take it to a mechanic?
 
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Old Mar 28, 2019 | 04:50 PM
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what about the oil dip stick..

after the change and a engine start.. then sit 1/2 hour.. check dip stick

my 2012 6.2L takes 7 1/2 quarts to reach the full mark... after what I said above..

my truck has 167,000 Hard miles.. uses 1 quart every 5,000 miles of City driving and Zero quarts of 6,000 miles towing 9,000 pounds...

IF it is using oil.... pull a spark plug.. it will tell you if its burning oil... done.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2019 | 07:42 PM
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If you truly used 1 pint of oil in 30 miles it would be showing in the exhaust if the engine had issues. It would be smoking and the tailpipe would be oily. Drive it 100 miles and see if it went down another 3 pints. My guess is it won't
 
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Old Mar 28, 2019 | 10:22 PM
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Recommended oil is 5W-30...maybe using a higher viscosity oil is contributing to the burn-off....?
 
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Old Mar 30, 2019 | 08:03 PM
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Looks like chucks first Ford is right, I have no oil level drop, it seems it takes 7.5 qts to top it off. What a relief. Now, what to do about the valve cover issue, leave it like I have it rigged up, or replace the valve cover? Also, to confirm the baffle defect, when I took the pvc hose from the throttle body, there was oil inside of it. You would think with an admitted defect, there would have been a recall. Never can figure that one out, when a manufacturer makes a bad part, why should the consumer have to foot the bill?
 
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Old Mar 31, 2019 | 09:24 AM
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First you need to run 5w-30 not 10-40 because you want oil up to the cams faster to eliminate wear.

Before you start condemning the PVC system do a quick engine health check buy getting the motor good and warm, block the tires, remove the oil cap, have someone stand on the brakes, put in gear and give it gas, be sure to stand to the side of the truck. If you get oil vapor coming out of the oil filler hole you have a motor problem because compression is getting into the crankcase which will cause the PVC system to have oil in it. If you have vapor coming out of the fill hole you bought someone else's problem. If you don't have oil vapor during the test put everything back to normal and make sure no air can be drawn into the crankcase, look at the dip stick first because it has to be sealed. Any air being drawn into the crankcase will cause the PVC system to draw oil vapor out of the motor and burn it.

Denny
 
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Old Mar 31, 2019 | 10:22 AM
  #8  
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I am not familiar with the 6.2 but if it is still vvt then you have to use the correct oil viscosity. If not you stand the chance of damaging the cam phasers.
 
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