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Old Mar 27, 2019 | 05:46 PM
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LOW IDLE

My '88 EFI 460 has never idled well. Usually lower than 600 rpms. Just rebuilt the motor and trans.No vacuum leaks. Runs lean, never hits cold idle(factory 1200 spec, mine 8-900), drops idle when coming to stop or going RND/DNR 400 to near stall. Pulled the codes for MAP sensor/replaced, EGR clogged(only 1 year old and changed out for new), checked O2 sensor(w/in specs), TIP specs w/in specs. All emissions plumbing was replaced. This is at the point of what I know what to do. Any guesses or known solutions.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2019 | 06:28 PM
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Proper temp / properly operating thermostat? Radiator cap working correctly? Engine coolant sensor good? O2 sensors been checked?
Has the adjustment screw on the IAC been messed with?



Just brain storming here...
 
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Old Mar 28, 2019 | 08:32 AM
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O2 sensor good. I disconnected the coolant sensor to see if the idle would adjust higher as per cold running cycle and no change. Didn't see an adjustment screw on the IAC. Pressure tested cap. I know that are no real adjustment for this system. Reminds me of the late emission carbs. Didn't have much to adjust and the adjustments never worked.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2019 | 12:51 AM
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Originally Posted by 5X5
Didn't see an adjustment screw on the IAC.
Unplug the Air Bypass Valve/AIC, see if it make a difference. RPM should drop down some, or even an engine stall.

It is also a good Idea to remove this valve, spray it down with Carb cleaner & replace with new gasket.


Zombi, I think is talking about the "Throttle Stop Screw" on the Throttle Body...
 
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Old Mar 29, 2019 | 01:04 AM
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Originally Posted by 5X5
O2 sensor good.
How do you know ?
Also, O2 sensor does not affect Cold-Idle start-up.
The O2 is ignored by the EECM during Cold-Idle start-up.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2019 | 01:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 5X5
I disconnected the coolant sensor to see if the idle would adjust higher as per cold running cycle and no change.
Disconnecting the ECT/Coolant Sensor would imitate a low voltage/resistance, which equates to a fully warmed engine, so doing this may not change your situation.
You should have seen a ECT code when this is disconnected.

Disconnect the ECT, and measure the resistance across the 2 pins of the sensor.
Go to the site via link below, compare you location temperature to the resistance your cold sensor should be.
Say it's 50 degs F. where you are working on your sensor, the sensor resistance should be around 45K ohms, 45,000 ohms. If it is not close to the comparison resistance, then it is out of range.

Ford Fuel Injection » Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT)
 
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Old Mar 29, 2019 | 01:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 5X5
My '88 EFI 460 has never idled well. Usually lower than 600 rpms. Just rebuilt the motor and trans.
How did it idle before you rebuilt the engine ?
 
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Old Mar 29, 2019 | 02:46 AM
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Create a small vacuum leak to see if the idle raises.
like, disconnect the Speed Control or HVAC/Air handling vacuum line from the Vacuum Tree.

Don't use the MAP, FPR, PVC or Brake hoses.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2019 | 08:44 AM
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It idled inconsistently before the rebuild. Did disconnect the coolant sensor hoping for a change but it was negligible.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2019 | 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by vjsimone
Unplug the Air Bypass Valve/AIC, see if it make a difference. RPM should drop down some, or even an engine stall.

It is also a good Idea to remove this valve, spray it down with Carb cleaner & replace with new gasket.


Zombi, I think is talking about the "Throttle Stop Screw" on the Throttle Body...
Yes, That is what I was referring to. people seem to like to tweak with those.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2019 | 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by ZombieF150
Yes, That is what I was referring to. people seem to like to tweak with those.
Yes, old carburetor lads who had no clue about the new EFI systems...
 
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Old Mar 29, 2019 | 09:41 PM
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I wonder if clogged injectors might be part of the issue. He mentioned it runs lean. If injectors were not able to supply the amount of fuel needed....
 
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Old Mar 30, 2019 | 07:28 AM
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I had the injectors tested prior to the rebuild and they were w/in range. I just removed the new EGR and plugged the hole and got 200-250 addition rpm.If this works I might for go w/o one. I know that it is counter intuitive but that cooler exhaust gas coming thru the EGR cools down the charge entering the combustion chamber. W/O one it might ping. Maybe premium gas will be the answer.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2019 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by 5X5
I just removed the new EGR and plugged the hole and got 200-250 addition rpm.
You just found the problem I think, the EGR should not be open at idle. Is there vacuum on the line to the EGR valve at idle? Again there should not be so if there is either it is mistakenly hooked up to manifold vacuum or the EGR vacuum regulator is malfunctioning.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2019 | 04:29 PM
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Water got into the ECM. Was packed with dielectric grease. Cleaned it , dried it and installed it. Running better. Anyone have a source for that rubbery/foam grommet that the cabling runs from the motor to the ECM?
 
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