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Old Apr 1, 2019 | 06:54 PM
  #31  
matthewq4b's Avatar
matthewq4b
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From: St Albert, Alberta
Originally Posted by Aaron-71
Another silly question, but... is there any possibility of damage to the motor/electronics if it was continually started this way (ICM CUT)?

I can't really think of any, but I'm curious to know opinions on this. If so, why wouldn't people cut the ignition at the ICM box instead of at the coil? The coil is always the most obvious place for people to cut the power and usually the first place a theft would look because its so common to do so with a kill switch.

No there is no chance of damage. It is exactly the same as turning off the key. People do nut cut ICM power just through a lack of understanding. Back in the day when these truck were new would be thieves would carry another ignition cylinder and key as it took about 2 seconds to get in to the truck with a master cylinder lid clamp and a couple more to unplug the ignition cylinder and plug theirs in. A skilled individual could have the truck gone as fast as the owner could with the key.
The other thing that can be done to thwart would be thieves is to pad lock the hood. With the ICM power cut and a lock on the hood there is really no way to take the truck in a reasonable amount of time.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2019 | 09:35 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by matthewq4b
No there is no chance of damage. It is exactly the same as turning off the key. People do nut cut ICM power just through a lack of understanding. Back in the day when these truck were new would be thieves would carry another ignition cylinder and key as it took about 2 seconds to get in to the truck with a master cylinder lid clamp and a couple more to unplug the ignition cylinder and plug theirs in. A skilled individual could have the truck gone as fast as the owner could with the key.
The other thing that can be done to thwart would be thieves is to pad lock the hood. With the ICM power cut and a lock on the hood there is really no way to take the truck in a reasonable amount of time.
Also a good strategy. I do like the idea of a locking hood, but have heard the horror stories of a backfire occurring, then the truck burning because they couldn't get under the hood to stop it.

Now just to figure out a good way to lock the hood...
 
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Old Apr 2, 2019 | 03:11 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Aaron-71
Also a good strategy. I do like the idea of a locking hood, but have heard the horror stories of a backfire occurring, then the truck burning because they couldn't get under the hood to stop it.

Now just to figure out a good way to lock the hood...
I had run across this a while back when I was looking for a cable release hood latch. I just don't like drilling holes all over the place.

How It Works - Z-Lok HoodLock
 
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Old Apr 2, 2019 | 03:37 PM
  #34  
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Anyone have a schematic of how they wired the hidden kill switch?
 
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Old Apr 2, 2019 | 04:04 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by njdevil77
I had run across this a while back when I was looking for a cable release hood latch. I just don't like drilling holes all over the place.

How It Works - Z-Lok HoodLock
Love the idea thanks for sharing. I don't like that the keys will be all the same every time. Too easy to buy a Z-lok, and be able to open up the hood for everyone that has a Z-lok.

If you could swap out the Z-lok cylinder for something else, then we're talkin.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2019 | 04:15 PM
  #36  
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matthewq4b
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From: St Albert, Alberta
Originally Posted by njdevil77
I had run across this a while back when I was looking for a cable release hood latch. I just don't like drilling holes all over the place.

How It Works - Z-Lok HoodLock
I have something way less complicated a chain and a pad lock lol
 
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Old Apr 2, 2019 | 04:52 PM
  #37  
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matthewq4b
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From: St Albert, Alberta
Originally Posted by 4fords
Anyone have a schematic of how they wired the hidden kill switch?

What has been added is in red.

IIRC the wire you want to splice in to is the red/green (if I'm wrong I'm sure someone will correct me) splice the switch in after the ballast resistor wire splices out (shown in red) that way their will still be power to the coil if you do it before the ballast resistor splices out they can run a "hot wire" from the battery positive to the coil and power up the ICM also.

Use A single pole toggle switch, this can be hid any where under the lip of the dash, Ideally you want it in a easy to reach spot but out of sight. I have seen them done under the front edge of the seat even.


With the switch off the ICM will fire the plugs as long as the starter is engaged this will give the impression of the engine starting as soon as the starter is released the power to the ICM is cut and the engine stalls.
this gives the impression of a mech issue and after a few attempts they will give up.

See below wiring diagram and pic of an appropriate toggle switch.



 
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Old Apr 3, 2019 | 07:37 AM
  #38  
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Thanks for the schematic.
 
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