First and for most, thanks for the help in Advance!! I have looked through a few of these type of post today and done a few test but where others would get fixed mine has not. I was driving my truck today and as I cruised along all the sudden power decreased and the vehicle died. The glow plug light was flickering as it died. Also now when key turns on the glow plug light stays on for 30+ seconds. Normally 8-12 secs max. Attempted to restart no crank, I then turned key on and used yellow wire cranked and started for 25 seconds or so , closed the hood and it died, then got back in truck attempted to start and it cranked and started, idled for 90secs or so then went to drive and within 10 feet it cut off again. Now When Key is turned on truck gauges light but truck will not crank at all, I don’t hear injectors no fuel pump, only vacuum. Now it will not crank at all, towed it home and started checking items I seen from other post. I did disconnect the Yellow with Blue Wire and put it to positive and the engine cranked, would not start though, I then checked all fuses and they all are good, I then checked relays swapped out a few (pcm) still no crank, then disconnected turbo sensor beside thermostats no crank, disconnected clutch fan no crank, disconnected fuel pump no crank. Checked power at ignition module under steering wheel have power and when key is turned to start powers green wire out of module. I’m stuck!! I have been looking at the wiring harness checking for frayed or broken wires I see known. I also check power and ground at the PCM Relay and have both bower and ground. Please any help would be great. Thanks!!!! Also the truck is all stock no mods.

 

We are probably going to need to see engine data and codes, if the OBDII port is powered up.

If you don't have a scan tool, you can download ForScan Lite to your phone and get an ELM 327 OBDII adapter. Cost is less than $40.

Are your batteries good and strong? What are the volts when cranking?
What are the cranking rpms?
Are you sure the transmission is in park or neutral? Try both if you haven't already.
Have you checked the inertia switch?

Also try disconnecting the fuel bowl heater and WIF sensor, the EGR valve, MAF sensor, ICP sensor, MAP sensor, IAT1 and IAT2, and the EOT and ECT sensors.

Edit - always list your truck year!! I assume it is an 03 from your profile!

 

Yes the Truck is an 2003 sorry, I will try and have a scanner tomorrow, I did hook up a cheap code reader but it powered up and I tried to read codes and it said no communication. I have checked the inertia switch still no crank. I did disconnect the 2 plugs under the truck on the frame well just before the tank, no crank with either or both unplugged. Thanks again!

 

Pretty sure you need power at the red wire(s) when cranking, at the switch under the column?

 

I have power on the Red when key is on and when turned Green gets power too

 

I think you need something to check VREF, this kind of acts like something is shorting out.

Anyone else have any thoughts on that theory?

 

So this morning went out to work on the truck some more and low and behold. I hit the key it fires right up and runs. Now I notice for the first time I have a check engine light it is code 2285 injector control pressure sensor low voltage. The truck then cut off after 2-3 mins. And went back to a no crank status.

 

Easy to check your battery voltage. And voltage while the engine is running.

 

As xcrsp440 posted above, and as I posted earlier, the voltage information (key-on-engine-off) and cranking would be helpful to see. Same w/ cranking rpms.

 

So I went out and truck started fine all weekend. Ran great drive around fine. Went out today started truck died again no crank. Sitting out in driveway no crank again, the injectors don’t come on to precycle nothing. I can’t get crank voltage because it will not crank. If I wait over night it may crank n start in the morning but could run fine or could die in 30-40 sec once it does will not crank again.

 

Wonder if the TR sensor would cause this.
Have you tried moving the shift lever up and down when this happens?

 

Yes moved shifter all around to no change. Went out this morning no crank still

 

When the key is turned on you say, does that mean to the crank position?
Not all the wires are hot all the time on that switch.
I'm sure you know that just trying to cover all the bases. One or two of those wires should only be hot with the key in the crank position.
I would try to find out which wire(s) are hot in crank only.

 

My 2004 powerstroke has the exact same issues. Did you figure out what it was. What was the problem?

 

You need to post some information. How can a no-start be diagnosed over the internet with nothing to go on?

Do you have a scan tool and code reader? If not the ForScan Lite app can be downloaded to your phone and then all you need is an ELM327 OBDII WiFi adapter. ForScan will pull codes.

Check fuse F2.22 (20A Engine Controls) under the dash. If it is blown a few common causes are: shorted fan clutch, MAF, IPR, EGR actuator, or GPCM.

One test to try:

Under the hood, find the yellow with light blue striped colored wire adjacent to the passenger side battery in the engine compartment, near the vacuum pump that has a "squeeze-and-pull" type connection. Disconnect it, and jump the male end of the connector to the passenger side battery positive terminal. The starter should crank. Leave the key in the off position to just crank.

Is it cranking w/ the starter solenoid wire jumpered?

What battery voltage do you have when you try to crank?
Tried cranking in neutral as well as park?
Have you checked the inertia switch?
Have you inspected the fan clutch wiring?

When you get the scan tool it would be good to see what codes you have and to see the v-reference voltage when you try to crank.

This may be helpful:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...condition.html

Items 4 and 5 in the thread linked above describe the first things to look at for a "no-crank " issue.