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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Rod Cap Nut Torque Spec Problem

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Old Mar 27, 2019 | 11:21 AM
  #16  
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From: Bahstun
Originally Posted by ChrisMelton78
Would it be worth it looking into some upgraded rods and pistons? I'm plan to throw a little power at this build, but not a ton. I would be over the moon at 400HP.
From what I have read, a stock non PMR 7.3 can handle 500 hp and a PMR 400hp max before needing special rods or pistons, ARP studs needed if hitting more than 35 psi boost or running stage 2

What have you done for mods so far?
 
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Old Mar 27, 2019 | 11:47 AM
  #17  
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IMO, put the money in the top end for a good valve job and correctly installed springs before going with aftermarket rods or pistons, you simply do not need them for 99% of users. ARP fasteners for the rods, maybe. But I would probably spend that $200ish toward having the rotating assembly balanced. Depends on your budget.

I have seen people push forged rod 7.3s well past 500rwhp and keep going. I certainly would try to stud the heads while it is apart, no easier, nor better time.



There is an excellent, fully color rebuild book for 7.3s and 6.0s. Looking at your favorite book store will probably find it. The 7.3 built is for a 94-97 first gen truck.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2019 | 04:29 PM
  #18  
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Ok. If you are determined I understand. I'm sure you have new bearings, I'd never build a motor without checking bearing clearance on the mains and rods. The rods should have new bolts and resized anyway, especially if you cant match the caps to each. At the very least use plastiguage, if you have as dial bore gauge and a micrometer I can tell you a better way for bearing clearance. What have you done for machine work on the block? Line bore checked? Are the cylinders bored? You need to check end play on the crankshaft before you permanently install that also. On my last build my thrust bearing needed to be clearanced quite a bit just to get to minimum spec. That is done by putting the bearing on a piece of glass or something really flat with sandpaper on it, sanding in a figure 8 pattern with each half of the bearing. Testing and fitting the crank until you get the desired clearance. Minimum spec is .0025, max is 0085. https://sites.google.com/site/woodnt...fications-2002. That link if it works tells you all of your clearances needed. There is a lot that goes into building a motor and doing it right, making sure it will last.
 
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