Too tight to turn
#1
Too tight to turn
460 project
got the crank back from the machine shop. They turned down the mains to .030" and the rods to .040"
got new bearings from Summit
put it it back together. Torqued the caps to check the clearance. Plastigage said 0.0015" as per spec
pulled the caps and lubed everything up. Rotating assembly rotated smoothly. As I torqued down the caps in stages, it became harder to rotate by hand
now that the caps are at final torque, I can't rotate the assembly even with my largest breaker bar on the snout bolt.
is this to be expected, or is this a bad thing?
got the crank back from the machine shop. They turned down the mains to .030" and the rods to .040"
got new bearings from Summit
put it it back together. Torqued the caps to check the clearance. Plastigage said 0.0015" as per spec
pulled the caps and lubed everything up. Rotating assembly rotated smoothly. As I torqued down the caps in stages, it became harder to rotate by hand
now that the caps are at final torque, I can't rotate the assembly even with my largest breaker bar on the snout bolt.
is this to be expected, or is this a bad thing?
#2
No, that's not to be expected and yes, that's a bad thing.
Did you by any chance get the caps mixed up or turned around?
Any chance of debris/dirt between the seat and the bearing or the bearing and the journal?
Did you by any chance get the caps mixed up or turned around?
Any chance of debris/dirt between the seat and the bearing or the bearing and the journal?
#3
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: between lost and found
Posts: 794
Likes: 0
Received 18 Likes
on
14 Posts
in looking at your other thread on this matter
If you look at Pictures #4 and 15 it appears you have cap # 6 on connecting rod # 5 and in pic # 14 cap #7 on connecting rod 1
(maybe my coffee hasn't kicked in yet ) but in pic #3 to me your timing chain looks a 1 tooth off
and in putting the connecting rods and caps together "was there alot of bearing crush?"
#5
Well, the mains are numbered and have arrows that point forward, so I feel good about those!
Unfortunately, in the week the crank was in the shop, the rod caps became "disorganized". I followed the pattern established by the mains of mating the notches, but they're very likely out of sequence.
I think the bearings and seats were very clean. I first cleaned them with a rag soaked in solvent (the seats-not the bearings), then a rag damp with brake cleaner as a degreaser. Another once-over with a clean, dry cloth before checking the clearances.
The Chilton calls for 0.0015" dry (sounds pretty tight to me, too) and that's what they measure
How might I determine the correct cap for each rod?
#6
I Believe Mike is right on having your caps mixed,
in looking at your other thread on this matter
If you look at Pictures #4 and 15 it appears you have cap # 6 on connecting rod # 5 and in pic # 14 cap #7 on connecting rod 1
(maybe my coffee hasn't kicked in yet ) but in pic #3 to me your timing chain looks a 1 tooth off
and in putting the connecting rods and caps together "was there alot of bearing crush?"
in looking at your other thread on this matter
If you look at Pictures #4 and 15 it appears you have cap # 6 on connecting rod # 5 and in pic # 14 cap #7 on connecting rod 1
(maybe my coffee hasn't kicked in yet ) but in pic #3 to me your timing chain looks a 1 tooth off
and in putting the connecting rods and caps together "was there alot of bearing crush?"
#7
Trending Topics
#8
#9
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: between lost and found
Posts: 794
Likes: 0
Received 18 Likes
on
14 Posts
ie not matching the fillet on the crank, on the caps and connecting rods there is a "beveled" side and a "flat" side this is for the Fillet on the crank
#11
First time that I looked at your other thread, now I see the pictures.
It does look like #5 & 6 conn rods have the rod caps switched. That could definitely be your problem.
All rods and caps should be stamped with matching numbers, just match the numbers up and be sure that both numbers are on the same side.
As for your cam being a tooth off, it looks okay to me.
It does look like #5 & 6 conn rods have the rod caps switched. That could definitely be your problem.
All rods and caps should be stamped with matching numbers, just match the numbers up and be sure that both numbers are on the same side.
As for your cam being a tooth off, it looks okay to me.
#12
#13
Yeah, me too. Not a day goes by I don't learn something new. Whether I'll ever use it again is an unknown , but at least I learned.
#14
#15
When I did the 351m in the brown truck, I did mark all the caps with a number and an arrow. I don't know why I failed to do it this time. Senior moment, I guess