If you type @ followed by a members name, no spaces, it will send them alert. Basically I called and asked matthewq4b to come to this thread and look at that post. He will have more information on the subject.

 

Oh, ok. Thank you!

 

He is the go to wizard when it comes to this type of stuff.
If he dose not see this in a short time send him a PM and point his to this thread so he can read it and get up to speed.
Good luck
Dave ----

Oh got to ask what was the cause of the camp fire?
Not knowing why & what it could happen again and we don't want that.

 

I Watched the video and this sounds like a miss I would double check that the ignition wires are all going to where they supposed to be.
The miss was likely the failed plenum gasket. But double check the ignition wire sequence.

The friggistat is the EGR valve. And yes you need it. The EGR is the exhaust gas reticulation valve it feeds exhaust gases in to the intake to be fed to the engine, since the exhaust is inert ( almost no oxygen) it reduces the temperature of combustion to reduce NOx (Nitrogen Oxide) emissions NOx is what causes smog. When NOx reacts with sunlight and the ozone in the atmosphere it creates smog. The truck will go in to limp mode with out it and have reduced power and fuel economy to keep combustion temps down.

What started the fire was the EGR if you look where the EGR id fed from on the intake it is right beside and ahead of the where you had the fire. Cruising and pulling a slight grade is just about the ideal situation for max EGR flow. This would under the right circumstances get hot enough to ignite organic material.... with the air movement from the rad fan and forward vehicle movement would push the fire back towards the firewall burning up the injectors for cylinders 3 and 4 So the cause of fire is sorted...

Now for the intermittent stalling. First suspect is the ICM bolted to the distributor this is the ignition control module when these start to fail when they get they can quit working and when they cool down a bit start working again. The next suspect is the pick up in the dist as this can behave in the same manner.

The cracked and broken plastic vacuum lines is not uncommon at all. As they age they get brittle like spaghetti, you can replace it with a chunk of rubber vacuum hose. And ya you can chase you *** fixing them but eventually you will get all the brittle spaghetti replaced.

Now you may have a stuck/ injector on that bank that had the fire. With the fire who knows what went on inside the fuel rail. You may have coked up some gasoline then came lose and jammed an injector open. This would explain the black smoke. Now I know you are in a cash tight spot . So instead of running out and buying new injectors you can build an injector tester pretty easily. (You tube video below). I have a similar unit I built like decades ago utilizing an Old Coleman lantern fount. You can use the car battery as the power source.

Once you get the truck back together you should pull the trouble codes. There is a great tool from inovva that make the job easy peasey. https://innova.com/en-US/Product/Det...79974954151374
I have this very one since the late 80's when I got sick of using a VOM to read them..
Alternatively you can use an analog multi meter to pull the codes I believe this was posted already. But below is another one with better eye candy host....

If it left any thing out or missed something let me know......

 

[QUOTE=matthewq4b;18565996]
If it left any thing out or missed something let me know......

Wow, sounds like you pretty much have a handle on these things. Thanks.

I was just thinking this morning that it might be possible to run some voltage to each injector just to hear if they're operating or not before possibly pulling them.
I need to watch the video and see what voltage they operate on.
Working on top of engines is quite difficult for me since I'm like 2'7"
Not really, but I have to climb on top.
I have one screwed hip, and both knees are close to garbage.

Edit: Ok, I see it's 12 Volts.
I might just try a listen test first.

 

Update......
Got the plenum remounted with new gasket.
Truck fired right up.
Still not running right, smelling gassy, no leaks I can see.
I'm going to replace the spark plugs for the halibut seeing as I have a fresh set.
Then maybe I'll try a little of the go no go routine pulling plug wires off the cap.
Maybe that way I can at least determine which cylinder/s might or might not be firing.

Thought I'd try pulling codes, but I don't see a place to get them from on the drivers firewall area.
The only thing mounted to the fire wall is the fuel pump relay.

 

Tried pulling plug wires on the distributer while it was running. I could really tell on some, others not so much.
I'm going to pull the plugs and see what they tell me.
I also ran wires to each injector, and I could hear them clicking.

If I don't learn anything from the plugs, I'm putting this one on the very back burner until some cash falls in my lap or a rocket surgeon comes along.

 

Just checked the 85. My harness is loose so I can't describe exact location but check right fender. Mine is coming off the harness between headlight, alternator and starter solenoid. My trapezoidal connector is orange or red.

 

This is what you are looking for; yours may be a red multi-connector and not black but they're the same thing; it's on the passenger side wheel cover near the battery, voltage regulator, and any vacuum storage reservoirs:


Image stolen from Google.

 

Ahhhsooooo!
This must be the boogerstat right here!
Found it over by the battery and all.

Now I gotta watch the video again, see how to wire it.

 

Bingo!

 

Ok. I'll see if it spits codes.
I'll probably get writers cramp by the time it's done.

One of the mechanics left two boxes of plugs in the truck.
As I prepared to pull and replace them, it appears that has been done already.
Who puts the old plugs back in their boxes????

 

I keep them for spares. When I ordered six they sent me eight. Now I have two great spares and six good ones. They are all in boxes but labelled new or good used.

 

I also keep my old ones in boxes as backups, in case I ever want to revert the change for some reason. Un-do what I just did..

Do you live in a rural area? Your story is seriously kind of horrifying.

Are you doing the test lamp/voltmeter method? And writing down blinkenlight codes?

 

Got the codes, but they don't seem to be like the nice lady's in the video.
It goes: 1-3-1-1-3-1-3-1 then stops.

I did it about five times.